Question about Pentax *ist DS Digital Camera

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Ist DS problems

My body has a few problems. In longer exposures (like when taking firework shots) there are about 6 pixels/spots that 'burn' in and on the image they are bright red and blue(this doesnt matter for type of shooting, its just most noticable in black scenes) I shoot in full manual, and some of my lenses are manual too (no 'A' setting) and sometimes when i go to trip the shutter, it jsut wont go. i press it and nothing happens, i usually turn the camera off and on and it seems to work afterwards 3rd, my battery life isnt near the 500ish that pentax says it should be. i dont do a lot of viewing on the lcd, and i dont use the flash. when i do use a flash, it is in the hot shoe, powered by its own 4 batteries. Sometimes when the camera says batteries are low, i turn it off and on and it sgood for another 10-30 shots. Off and on aagain... etc. its stupid. Anyways my batteries are all NiMH and they dont get mixed up i have a set of energizer 1700mAh, energizer 2300mAh , panasonic 1600mAh, and i also tried some disposable batteries. So far i have taken 3700 shots. my 4th problem was that the camera would try to autofocus sometimes in manual mode and wouldnt take a pic until you set it to AF, let it forcus, and then set it back to MF. This was solved with a firmware upgrade.. but the other problems were not. What suggestions do you have?

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I guess one of the reasons I'm intent on filters is not only does my A28/2.8 have a very tiny kink in the glass at one edge (it is otherwise brand-new, having been sitting in its box for awhile), I plan to take the camera sailing. Even then, would you be using filters? I guess it's leftover from the days when salesppl scared us all into getting $20 filters to protect three or four figure lenses!

Posted on Sep 08, 2005

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Lot's of good filters out there. SMC Pentax filters are still available from B&H (among others). I put some Heliopan filters on my new lenses. Things are a lot different than when the MX was sold. Back then, I only remember a manufacturer as offering one filter. These days, each manufacturer has several levals of quality. Sorry to not be more helpful. For me, I was able to find some 49mm Pentax filters at Frank's Highland Park Camera. Got 'em for 10 bucks each. For the balance of the lenses, purchased Heliopan filters.

Posted on Sep 08, 2005

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I have a canon eos 550d and i have been taking photos for the past 4 months or so and not a problem till date. but recently when a take a long exposure say 30 seconds or even 10, 15 seconds, after the...


Long exposures increase the amount of noise recorded in any digital image. Your camera uses blank frame subtractive noise reduction, like most others. After a long exposure with the shutter open, it temporarily records another similarly long exposure with the shutter closed. It then subtracts any hot pixels (noise) showing in the second image from the one you have just captured as they will overwhelmingly be in the same sensor locations on both images, regardless of any image data.

While all that is going on, your camera will be busy and unavailable for use, and that's exactly what it's trying to tell you.

If you don't want noise reduction then go into the camera menu and turn it off, but you will likely find that you spend far longer cleaning up your images afterwards.

Hope this has explained the issue clearly and that you are able to take a moment to rate my answer.

Jul 28, 2011 | Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS / 1000D IS...

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Recently I found one balck spot on my picture, I dont know whay the black spot is coming. I am having a Nikkon D90 18-105 lens.


The black spot can be from one or two sources. The first, is a called a stuck or hot pixel. Your camera's sensor has 12.9 million pixels (12.3 million are used for the image). Many times, a hot or stuck pixel is a bright color - red, yellow, green, etc. It can be any color however. Dark or black pixels can also be called dead pixels as they look like they're "off." Regardless of which your camera suffers, it will not respond to light projected on the sensor by the lens. You'll have to have manually edit the pixel in each image, or return to Nikon for sensor replacement. Nikon used to perform a mapping out of the pixel, but it seems that they don't do this any longer. A sensor replacement can cost in the hundreds of dollars.

The second source, is dust on the sensor. A pixel(s) blocked by dust will show up in each picture, but will appear to be more in focus in some images than others - depending on the aperture value of the camera when the exposure was made. A stuck pixel usually has a very definite edge on all images regardless of aperture setting. A simple, careful wet cleaning of the sensor with a product designed specifically for the job can solve this problem pretty quickly.

Here's a video for wet sensor cleaning from Youtube There are others here too. I hope this was helpful & good luck!

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What settings would you use on the Nikon D3100 camera to photograph fireworks


Hello
Here are some general guidelines for shooting fireworks:-
Get a good position! Try to determine approximately where the fireworks will be bursting. And get a spot with an unobstructed view of that area. You'll probably need to show up early to get a good spot. Figure out the wind direction and get upwind of the fireworks so that your shots aren't obscured by smoke blowing toward you. Find a spot where you can avoid getting a lot of extraneous ambient light in the picture, as this will cause an overexpose.

Set the camera on the tripod. Don't extend the legs or neck of the tripod. Keep everything close to the ground to keep the camera as steady as possible.
Ensure the camera settings are correct. It is best to set these well ahead of time, as it may be difficult to see your camera controls or your checklist in the dusk or dark. But it's wise to double-check now.
Set your focus to infinity. You're generally far enough away from fireworks that you can adjust your lens focus to infinity and leave it there. If you want to get a closeup of a small part of the burst, you may need to adjust the focus as you zoom in. If you want to include buildings or people in the background, you may want to bring these into focus. Avoid the use of auto focus if possible. Most cameras have difficulty adjusting focus in low light conditions.
Use a smaller aperture. Set the aperture in the f5.6 to f16 range. F8 is usually a good bet, but if you're shooting with ISO 200 film you may want to kick it up to f16.
Turn off your flash. The fireworks are bright enough, and your flash wouldn't effectively reach them anyway.
Take off any filters or lens cap before shooting. If your lens has IS (Canon) or VR (Nikon),Turn it off before shooting. If you are shooting with an SLR or DSLR camera, chances are your lens has the IS (image stabilization) or VR (vibration reduction) feature built in. And if you have IS or VR (it is essentially the same thing, but Canon and Nikon just had to label it differently), then chances are you are used to leaving it on close to 100% of the time - which is generally a good idea. IS/VR is meant to sense the vibration (the shaking of you hands, mostly) and compensate for it. When it does not sense any, it... creates it. Turn it off in order to get sharper images. This tip goes not only for shooting fireworks, but is valid any time you shoot off a tripod.
Frame the picture before shooting. Look through your viewfinder during the first few bursts and figure out where the action is. Point your camera at that spot and leave it there. You don't want to be looking through the viewfinder while you're trying to shoot, because you'll likely shake the camera or your timing will be off. If you're trying to get closeups, of course, your framing will need to be more exact and you'll probably have to play with it more. Once again, frame carefully to exclude other light sources that might distract from the fireworks or cause your photos to be overexposed. 5Keep the shutter open to capture the entire burst. Set the exposure to the maximum length. To get the sharpest image it is best that nothing comes in contact with the camera during the exposure. Use the automatic long exposure of 30 seconds or more. If your camera does not have an automatic long exposure the use of a cable release is OK. Use the BULB (B) setting, which will keep the shutter open as long as the button is depressed. A rule of thumb is to open the shutter as soon as you hear or see the rocket shooting into the sky and to leave it open until the burst is dissipating. This will usually take several seconds.
Spice it up. Even good pictures of fireworks can be boring if there's nothing to distinguish them. You can make more interesting photos by including buildings in the background or spectators in the foreground. Choose your shooting location to try to get an unusual and unique perspective on the show if Possible.
Hope it helps, if so do rate the solution

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1 Answer

Lens Error and Proper switching on Problem


Same problem for me. Try below one. Its working!!!
Press the power-on button, and at the same time Press and hold the shutter button down

Mar 11, 2009 | Cameras

1 Answer

Sony handy cam


Unit may have been set to wrong exposure preset. Taking video at night of fireworks can be tricky as a lens openning for night shots may be overexposed when taking shots of sudden bright flashes of fireworks. You might try moving the camera vantage point at least 60 - 100 feet away. This will give the camera additional time to adjust it's optics

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1 Answer

Extremely long time writing to CF card


IIRC these cameras support a noise reduction feature through a custom function. The camera will take a second exposure with the shutter closed (i.e. against something pure black) to see which pixels in the camera are "hot", and then will use that information to remove that hot pixel noise from the original image. "hot" pixels depend on temperature and exposure length so the camera would need to do this on every shot.

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1 Answer

Dead Pixels???


It's a hot/stuck pixel. It's not dust. If it's always the same shade of white and on every shot it's stuck. If it's some shade from grey to white and only shows up on longer exposures, it's hot. Can't be fixed. Canon should be able to map it out, but I'm not sure of their warranty policy. Sometimes warranties on sensors specify a maximum number of defects. Very few, if any, warranty a sensor to be perfect, with zero dead, stuck or hot pixels. If you don't specifically look for it in a print, it's unlikely that you (or anyone else) will notice it.

Sep 14, 2005 | Canon EOS-20D Digital Camera with 17-85mm...

1 Answer

What are defect pixels?


Ocassionally images from digital cameras will have "defect" pixels. These pixels may appear in the final photograph as bright white, green or red spots that are out of place when compared to the rest of the image. Sometimes people call these spots "hot" or "dead" pixels. Usually these pixels, and other types of "digital noise" appear in the darker or underexposed parts of images; additionally, images taken at longer exposure times are much more likely to have this issue. Many Nikon cameras have a "noise reduction" or "NR" process that fixes these problem areas. When NR is activated and image exposure times drop below 1/4 of a second the NR automatically processes the images as they are saved. This Noise Reduction feature is sometimes called "Night Portrait" or "Night Landscape" Scene Modes. If these spots are seen on images photographed under normal conditions (bright light with exposure times shorter than 1/4 second) then the camera may need to be sent in to a Nikon Service Center for repair. Notice the green defect pixel near the center of this image.

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1 Answer

What are defect pixels?


Ocassionally images from digital cameras will have "defect" pixels. These pixels may appear in the final photograph as bright white, green or red spots that are out of place when compared to the rest of the image. Sometimes people call these spots "hot" or "dead" pixels. Notice the green defect pixel near the center of this image. Usually these pixels, and other types of "digital noise" appear in the darker or underexposed parts of images; additionally, images taken at longer exposure times are much more likely to have this issue. Many Nikon cameras have a "noise reduction" or "NR" process that fixes these problem areas. When NR is activated and image exposure times drop below 1/4 of a second the NR automatically processes the images as they are saved. This Noise Reduction feature is sometimes called "Night Portrait" or "Night Landscape" Scene Modes. If these spots are seen on images photographed under normal conditions (bright light with exposure times shorter than 1/4 second) then the camera may need to be sent in to a Nikon Service Center for repair.

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