Question about Washing Machines
I had been getting an LE error off and on for more than a year which was able to be fixed by unplugging the machine and resetting it. Three weeks ago I got it again however the machine would not reset. The machine will fill and drain, but not spin. LG said to call for service so I did. The technician ordered a new stator (which took LG 3 weeks to get here! another story) which he installed today along with a new harness. The machine seemed to be working properly when he left, but when I ran my first load, (a tiny load on speed wash to test it) it washed, but would not spin and rinse. I have tried unplugging, etc to no avail. Any ideas what other part could be faulty?
Usually an le error on an LG front load washer is from a hall or speed sensor on the motor. it involves removing the rotor and stator and disconnecting the wiring harness. The sensor is a white plastic part that is on the stator that the wiring harness attaches to. Also clean out your pump through the little door on the bottom right of the washer. Use the little black hose to drain it first. sometimes the LE code will generate if you overload the washer. reduce the size of the load and see what happens. make sure the drum can rotate freely too.
Posted on Apr 12, 2017
Ok, this is a fact. These new machines are not as reliable as the older machines. My Washer, Dryer pair are 25 year old May Tags. All 4 machines have been down once and the fixes averaged 25$. I would go to older machines. The shop mechanic told me in Hawaii and in Sacramento, Ca that May Tag sold to Westinghouse years ago and the machine are still Branded May Tag but are made by Westinghouse. "A new wave of technology but not simple or predictable or dependable. Growl if you want but you are looking at a long expensive trip unless you go back 15 years. These new one are all over the paper for sale. Who would sell a good washing machine anyway unless it was a problem.? Sorry
Posted on Apr 16, 2017
If it does not rinse or spin is the pump actually emptying the water. If the pump is not emptying the water it will not rinse or spin because water has not been removed. I recently had a Samsung unit do the same thing. It would have cost more to fix than replace. Did the serviceman run all the diagnostics before he left? There are several stages he should have done before telling you it is fixed.
Posted on May 03, 2017
Try cleaning out the filter screen behind the bottom panel. You have to remove it to get to it in some washers, while others have the opening flush with that panel. If the screen is plugged, the pump won't work, and the pump may burn up if there's no safety system built into the machine. It is possible for it to burn up, though, if you don't shut off the washer when it fails to drain. My washer was professionally refurbished by a local company that specialized in this sort of thing and that's what made the one I bought fail before they refurbished it. A sock was found in the filter screen, which prevented water from getting to the pump. the pump burned up.
Your owner's manual probably tells you to have a service technician clean the filter every 6 or 12 months. Almost no one does this, and many otherwise good washers meet their demise when this happens. The pump CAN be replaced if this happens and it's better and cheaper than buying a newer washer, but preventive maintenance can practically guarantee that the pump will outlast the rest of the washer!!! You CAN do this servicing yourself even though the manual probably doesn't tell you how. My friend's appliance repair service company charges about $80 for a service call, more if it takes over 1/2 hour, and he's probably average in his fees. So why not do it yourself, using YouTube videos to learn how if what I wrote below doesn't make enough sense to you.
My GE front loader did the same thing. I had to drain it through this opening by putting a large shallow baking pan under the spout and doing the draining in small stages until it was empty. Expect some mess in the process, and it might help if you put a sheet of plastic under everything and also a towel on top of that under the pan you are draining into.
After doing that, I looked in the screen filter and found lots of crud that was clogging the system. We had tried to wash some rag rugs--don't ever do that!!!
After draining and then cleaning out that filter screen, I reassembled it and ran the washer. There was still some crud flowing through the whole system but it got trapped in the screen. I had anticipated this and had left the bottom panel off until I cleaned the last of the crud out of the screen. I recommend not reassembling everything until you've ran the washer and checked the screen a few times, cleaning it out each time until you feel it is clean. Then do this every year or so unless you lose a sock and suspect it's inside the washer's water distribution system. It takes only 10 minutes or so, maybe less.
If your washer doesn't have the filter screen access through the bottom panel, removing it should be easy. Mine had three 1/4 inch hex head screws that I had to unscrew to remove the panel. Then I could see the screw-in plug that gave access to the screen. I only cracked it open enough to let the water drain into the pan and closed it each time the pan got about 2/3 full. It's easy to spill water from the pan so the less you fill it each time you drain some of the water, the less likely you'll spill water on the floor. I have a 5 gallon bucket next to me to make it easy to do this over and over several times until it was completely drained.
Even when just doing regular maintenance, there will be some water in the system so you need to slowly drain it before taking the screen out for inspection and cleaning. I usually have to drain mine twice before it's dry.
And if you want to keep that strange smell out of your washer and off your clothes, keep the front loader's door open a few inches between uses and wipe the seal inside the door opening each time you finish a washing session. You can use an Affresh tablet once a month to disinfect/deodorize the washer, too.
Posted on Apr 27, 2017
Call the tech back, tell him he didn't fix it. Be nice but firm. He should have fixed it on the first service call and should not charge you any more labor. If he is really good, he will offer to only charge you for the parts that actually fix the problem as well. These new appliances (like new cars) are loaded with electronics and can be difficult to troubleshoot. That's why they spit out diagnostic codes but they are not 100% accurate.
Posted on Apr 27, 2017
If the machine will wash but not spin it's the drive belt slipping because it needs cleaning.
I've fixed dozens with the same fault.
Unplug from the power.
Take the back off.
You should be able to see a rubber drive belt going around a big wheel and also around the motor pulley.
Clean the belt with a damp soapy cloth turn the wheel or pull the belt to move it through the cloth.
Clean the edge of the big wheel where the belt runs as well.
You can also rub the edge of the wheel with sandpaper to roughen it slightly.
It should spin now.
Posted on Apr 26, 2017
Often it is a faulty control panel. it's is fairly easy to replace, and you can buy a new one cheap on ebay. Shop around a little and look at youtube as for " how to replace it.. It is usually : unclip all the wiring harnesses , remove the control panel, set the new one in, clip in the wiring harnesses accordingly. close front panel.. best of luck
Posted on Apr 18, 2017
Similar problem with my 10 year old Bosch. It was a clogged pump and had worked well for months since I cleaned it out. $100 service call was worthless so I took it upon myself. Check these things first.
- May not be sensing proper water pressure. Be sure valves are fully open. Clean screens where water hose connects to the machine.
- Be sure you are using proper detergent and small amount. Too many suds will cause it not to spin and drain.
- There may be a cleanout behind the door at the bottom front left side. Bail as much water as possible then open the cleanout slowly and use a shop vac to remove the rest as you open it. Open cleanout and remove debris.
- Surgery. If the pump is clogged as mine was you may have to remove the pump, separate it and clean out the sludge. This is involved but I did it with a lot of patience. With mine, the pump was accessible from the back and is connected to the debris clean out. Disconnect hoses and unplug machine. I removed the back panel and supported the drum with a towel before putting machine on it's side with the pump side up. DO NOT DISTURB ANY WIRES OR ELECTRONICS! The rest is common sense if you're handy. My pump disconnected from the motor with 1/4 turn. Check YouTube for a video if one exists for your machine. Check for rubber gaskets/seals as you take it apart and hope they aren't damaged as the pump will leak without them. Thoroughly clean out the pump chamber, mine was clogged and was the cause of the problem. Took me 3 hours to do as my leaning curve went up I could do it in and hour. Saved over $300 for new pump and install. Hope this helps. Basic tools are all that's needed, channel locks among them.
Posted on Apr 11, 2017
Sounds like the control panel is faulty,To replace
can be £100 + ,If to old might pay to get new
Posted on Apr 10, 2017
SOURCE: wm0532hw error code LE
HI. this is a major warning that is signaling an issue with the drive
motor. it may be burning out or, the hall sensor could be faulty as
well. check the following to address this issue further.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
LE stands for locked motor error. The first thing you should try is simply unplugging the machine for 10 minutes. If the problem continues the next most likely cause is the hall sensor. To get to the hall sensor remove the back cover, then remove the wheel that is attched to the drum. Undre that wheel if the stator (motor). At the bottom there is a sensor that spans about three of the windings. This is the hall sensor. It is not very expensive. If neither of those work you will need to replace the Stator (motor)
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
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