Deep well 275' replaced water filter on water line in house problem water has a fine mud in it and after we take two shower we have no water

It's doubtful your water heater unit is the problem. There is simply no reason for it to only work on sinks unless some how the pipe size was drastically reduced coming out of the unit so sinks got plenty of hot water but the shower does not. Take a second look at the installation. The pipe should not be less than 1/2" coming out. If that's OK then consider a clog or valve problem.

A calcium build up in the nozel heads or pipes from some not so lovely water. Did it happen gradually? There is a filter in the side of electric hot water systems that needs replacing once in a while but that would affect all the pressure.

Mud effect .. your shower has choked up due to mud or waste particles in the water .. dissemble it and clean it

Hello there,
When your water starts tasting funny and you can see some kind of particles in the ice, then it means the water filter is dirty and needs to be changed. Try to get the water filter replaced and the funny taste will stop.
If you are having some kind of lime taste or mud taste, or lime deposits or mineral deposit, is simply means you will have to replace the water line and reservior.
Hope this helped. All the best Elect_Comp

Yes it very well could be that, when thet were building the near by house did you at some points get dirty/muddy water out of your kitchen/bathroom/shower? if you did the mud and grit is blocked in the filter scrrens on the back of washer were inlet hoses connect to,by removing the hoses and cleaning those screens that may fix it,if not the water inlet valve would need to be replaced

Your asking a question that a geologist should answer but.... I will comment below.

There are a lot of variables that are unknown here. Is this a deep well or a shallow well?
Orange mud after a month hmmm.. It makes one wonder if they have the foot / check valve shoved into the mud? Has anyone tried shortening the pick-up line say 2 feet just to make sure the foot valve isn't in the mud? A couple of other experiences is to unhook the house plumbing and overboard the water until the well runs temporarily dry and visually inspect the well cavity for cave- ins. If there are no cave ins.... I would have my doubts on the liner fixing anything.

If it is a deep well obviously you can not visually inspect anything deep. BUT... you can overboard the water straight from the pump outlet. Most wells will clear up if you overboard water daily for 7 to 10 days until the pump stops pumping. If the foot valve is in the mud it may take many months to stop having orange mud in the filter. Unless your well is in some pretty soft dirt I do not think liner would be required... how ever... if you raise the foot valve 2 feed and still have orange muddy filters... you may have to go for the liner.

I would say the liner is the fix of last resort.
Plan of action:
1. Overboard water daily until the pump stops pumping. You may have to re-prime the pump but, if you wait 45 mins after shutting the pump off the water level should recover enough you do not have to prime the pump.
2. After 10 days or so of repeated ove- boarding sessions until the pump stops pumping... you still have the muddy orange stuff... RAISE the foot valve 2 feet (Someone may have to cut off the pipe 24 inches and re-thread it)
3. If you have done the above and still have the orange mud in the filter..... DO NOT allow the driller to install the liner without a guarantee. I would also stipulate that if it does not cure the mud issue he is going to pull out the liner and refund the cost for same. ( He will tell you... we can not pull out the liner ) If he knows he might have to pull it out.... He will make sure he can remove it!

Feel free to seek the advice of others. This is a who answered your question:
http://blog.fixya.com/index.php/2010/05/award-winning-service
Being from Iowa and growing up on a farm and having wells drilled I pass along my experience. We also thawed long plumbing runs with welders in the winter time running 150 Amps DC end to end for several hours just so the cattle hydrant lines or home plumbing piping would thaw.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and again no worries if you seek other advice. Sometimes like in this situation... it just might be wise. I passed on what I would do if I were to show up on your door step and attempt to try and solve the orange mud / dirt problem you have.

Kelly

You have to turn main water off to house, then in side shower head is a gasket / otherwise known as a 0-ring, that needs replacing. Yes, a 50 cent part is causing this. If you don't know how to replace shower head 0-ring, just take shower head to any home depot,they will put it inn for you. Just make sure you turn main water line to house off, otherwise real leak. Let me know if helps. Thanks mike

You will have water coming out of the shower head when you have really good water pressure. There might be more water volume coming out through the valve then what the tub spout can handle and in turn sends the water up to your shower head. When you fill your tub try turning the water only half way on not at full pressure, does this keep the water from coming out of the shower head? Most likely your valve has a 3/4" supply line while your shower head and tub have only a 1/2" supply line. Sounds like you have more volume to the valve than what the tub spout can handle. You might consider one of two things: 1) you can put a water regulator on the main supply line going into the house to lower your pressure, or 2) change out the supply line to the tub spout, increasing it from 1/2" to 3/4". Let me know whats going on.

go to sears.com enter the model number and you can get an owners manuel and should be able to order replacement filters.

SInce it is wet both under and behind the shower I would rule out the drain floor pan and drain system and think it most likely to be the pipe leaking from the mixing faucets to the shower head. Find studs directly behind shower faucet, n each side. Locate the center of the studs and put vertical lines up and down on the center line of the two studs closes to but outside the shower  faucet on each side. Approximate 6 inches or so  up and down for the height of the shower faucet (Valve, not head) Put Horizontal lines across between the two line at both the top and the bottom/ You now have a square.Using a Razor knife(Sometimes called a box knife, stanley 99a for example) cut into the lines of the square back and forth as deep as you can. Cut an x  acrossthe square corner to corner again as deep as you can . Lightly hit the center of the x until the drywall caves in . Cut the remaining drywall out for the square. Now while  the shower is running you will be able to see whee the leak is. Use pipe seal after disassembling the loose fiting or repair the leak iun what ever manner is necessary. Replace and repair the hole made in the drywall  with another piece of drywall, tape and joint cement. .