I shoot mainly surfing and nature photos and am thinking at last of buying a digital camera (enough wasted prints!); from readings on this site seems like the fz20 is the best of its range...
I would like to know at full zoom(432mm) if the autofocus will be fast enough for surfing photos ? And what about a teleconverter, which kind would you recommend for my purposes, aint there to much quality loss ? (as with my 300mm + ring on my nikon f65 !)
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Re: Surfing and nature photos
Depending on the break, the FZ20 may be enough. But it's a tough sport to photograph from shore. That said, there isn't a comperable non dslr digital. For the best shots, I personally don't think 432mm is enough unless the break is close to shore.
The tele-extenders would help and there are plenty of threads here about them and their quality. Most have had good luck. I assume you'd be using a tripod. IS can't handle handheld shots with more than the standard lens IMHO. A fluid head is very helpful for the necessary panning shots of surfing.
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are that you are not using CR-V3 camera batteries in your *ist DL.
I have tried 2400mAh NiMH rechargable batteries and brand new alkaline
batteries in an attempt to save money.
Neither lasted anywhere
near as long as the CR-V3 batteries!
While you may be paying $15-$20
for two CR-V3 batteries, they last a LONG time!
One of the
advantages of DSLRs (and digital cameras in general) is that you save
money by no longer buying film and paying for developing/prints. But,
even at $20 for two CR-V3 batteries, I save money! I am able to take
several hundred photos on a pair of batteries (I think the manual says
500 ) instead of $10-$15 ($2-$7 for film $8 dev/print) for every
Slow down the shutter speed of your digital camera. Whenever you must take a photo in a low light environment decrease your shutter speed. It is virtually impossible to take a blurry digital photo with a an extremely slow shutter speed. Even if your digital camera has an automatic or semi-automatic mode, slowing down the shutter speed will still produce a better digital photo.
Wait until your digital camera is completely focused. Most digital cameras will notify you that they are focus ready by a blinking light, on screen indicator or a noise. Confirm that your digital camera has locked onto your desired target before pressing the shutter release button. Some digital cameras may have trouble focusing on subjects easily. If this happens use an auto focus mode to produce a better digital photo.
Prevent your digital camera from shaking. Shaky hands or sudden movement will definitely produce a blurry digital photo. When holding your digital camera, make sure the viewfinder is firmly pressed against your face before snapping a digital photo. If you do not have image stabilization on your digital camera, then think about investing in a tripod. This will allow you to steady your digital camera for the perfect shot.
Make sure the digital image is definitely a blurry one and not just a soft image. On many occasions soft images are mistaken for blurry ones. Soft images occur often with digital cameras. When printing these images, the softness rarely shows through. You will be able to easily edit these photos by sharpening the details for a better printing experience.
Take your time. Instead of rushing to take a digital photo, set aside enough time to shoot your image. Hurrying up will not produce an excellent digital photo. You don't need to be overwhelmingly slow when taking the photo, but try your best not to take a hasty one.
A Digital camera does not by default put a date on the prints because it is stored in Metadata in the image. If you want the date printed on the image talk with the place you get your photos, My guess is that they can do that for you.
The symbols you are seeing are the blur warning indicators.
The yellow hand warns you that the picture may not be quite sharp enough for a standard 6" x 4" print - however you may be happy with it.
The red hand warns you that the picture is most likely to be poor quality, and won't produce a good 6" x 4" printed photo.
The reason you're getting these indoors, is that there's not enough light for the camera to take a good picture. As it tries to do so, it opens the shutter for longer to let more light in - however on doing so, if the camera isn't absolutely still, then the warning symbols will come on.
To remedy the above I'd have the following suggestion - if possible and practical, when shooting indoors, try and rest the camera on something solid when taking a photo. If this is not possible - try leaning against a wall to stabilise yourself. Even though you think you are holding the camera still - it's moving quite a lot.
Try one hand held photo - and one photo with the camera resting on something solid like a table and see what the difference is.
Hi, Sigma does make plenty lens option in both ranges you are looking at, you may want to consider a zoom lens that will work for you. What type of photography do you do? That will help determine your lens selection choices. keep in mind that it is more important to purchase the highest quality lens you can afford rather than several lower quality versions. If you are looking at a 300 mm lens to capture sporting events or nature photography you will have determine is it going to be daylight or low light because a lens that works in lower light situation will cost many times more than one with less capability. If you like the wide angle to take photos of interiors the same goes as far a price. You may also want to consider your camera's brand of lens, the Nikkor lens and even look a the VR lenes (vibration Reduction). There is an 18-200mm1:3.5-5.6 that is pretty versitile and will work in a lot of situations from portraits to full standing poses and take great interior shots. The VR lenses are a little more pricey but allow you to hand hold the camera for pretty slow exposures. I know that is a lot to think about but it's important not to waste you hard earned money on lens combinations that won't be useful for what you want to shoot.
You can use PhotoShop (or some other photo software) to re-size your photos for the internet. If you are sending a photo that is 700kb (for example), then it can be printed out on large scale. You can downsize it to about 45kb before you send it, by selecting "small size" and "low quality". Or, if you don't want to resize it, whoever is printing it on the other end can resize it for the printer, using their photo printer software.
Another option would be to shoot the photo in a smaller format. You can do that by pressing the FUNC button located on the back of the camera, then go to the last option at the bottom left of the function screen. You will be given the option of L, M1, M2, S. Select "S", and it will shoot smaller photo files.
look in the setup screen. Its accessible through the blue F button on the back. Easy cheesy. If shutterfly is getting smaller resolution pics than you are shooting, then your Email client is automatically resizing your pictures to speed up the transfer, you need to turn that feature off.
A P72 should be good enough for 4x6 prints. Are you shooting at the maximum resolution? At 3.2 Megapixels you should be able to print at 4x6" at 250dpi (which although not ideal is better than that of most magazine printing!)
The graininess of your images is not to do with resolution but rather sensitivity and the processing engine in the camera. Are you shooting in bright light, or mainly with the flash? If it is the latter, I'm afraid you're always going to have the picture noise (graininess) with this camera.
If you're going to upgrade, look for a model with good low light capabilities and a good lens. www.dpreview.com is an excellent resource for comparison shopping.
In addition to digital photo shooting, the Total Imaging Solution products support convenient Dock & Done photo storage, management, and printing for more carefree shooting and easy image handling. Dock & Done allows you to Dock the camera, and then organize, print, and store photos quickly and hassle-free virtually anywhere, without the use of a computer.