High iso on s5200/5600

ISO refers to the sensitivity your camera has to light when taking a photograph.

A lower ISO value is generally better as a high ISO value can reduce the quality of an image and cause it to appear grainy or noisy. Therefore, you should always aim to use a low ISO value. When outdoors in a bright light, an ISO value of 100 or 200 should be fine.

Higher ISO values can be used in situations where, perhaps, you are indoors, there is low light or you cannot use a flash. A higher ISO value such as 800 or 1600 can be used to compensate for the lack of light and it will brighten the image for you. A high ISO value can also be used if you wish to create a grainy effect in the image but this can be easier to achieve afterward on a computer.

How low/high do you have the ISO set?

Basically putting the camera in modes other than Manual, TV or AV means that's you've given up a lot of control, so the camera is left to its own devices to solve the scene. When shooting landscapes you need a large depth of field, which means the camera chooses a higher F-number for your photo. Higher F-numbers mean less light gets into the camera, since the shutter speed has to stay high enough for you to shoot handheld. So now you've got two things t work which reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor: small aperture (high F-number) and fast shutter speed. Since the camera meters the scene and has only one remaining factor to get "correct" exposure, all it can do is set the ISO according to the two other mandatory settings of F-number and shutter speed. If there's enough light (bright, sunny day) then it can remain at ISO 100, which is usually the best quality image. If there's insufficient light though, then it may go as high as ISO 800 or even ISO 1600 to allow the small aperture and fast shutter speed. This will make your photos look grainy.

Instead, I recommend that you set the camera to AV Mode, put your F-number to F8.0, set your ISO manually to ISO 100, and use a tripod. Additionally you can use the custom functions menu to lock up the mirror (prevents "slap" which shakes the camera and makes the image less sharp) and also use 2-sec timer (select it using the button to the left of "set" on the back of the camera).

Following those steps you should get the sharpest photos your lens and camera body will allow. Be sure to use autofocus by defeault and switch to manual if you want to fine-tune (or if AF is "hunting" and not locking on a target) and also turn Image Stabilization OFF if using a tripod. Good luck!

The SnapSights SS03 is a non waterproof camera supplied with 200 ISO film so you clearly have the SS01 model for 800 ISO. Both cameras have fixed aperture and shutter speed and rely on the wide exposure latitude of print film. 100 ISO is ideal if you have a camera with a wider aperture than yours, but if you use it then photos will be three stops underexposed; you'd possibly get away with this on land but underwater shots typically have more shadows than highlights and you'd lose a lot of photographic detail. By using 800 ISO the camera will produce photos which are noticeably grainy and with high contrast demonstrated by less detail in shadow areas and overexposed highlights, but for most purposes the photos will be acceptable and far better than none at all.

Colour negative film has a wide exposure latitude so you may wish to experiment with using 400 ISO or even 200 ISO. 400 will be one stop underexposed, but the printing stage can compensate to produce shots which are less grainy with better shadow details but which will lack some highlight detail. This can be partially compensated for if you tell the processing lab to "push process" your film at 800 ISO, but this will usually cost extra and for just one stop under I wouldn't bother, 200 ISO is really stretching it though and you may find that results are unacceptable unless you push process. Ultimately, it all depends upon how dark and how deep you go, but at much below 1,5m everything gets a strong blue colour cast anyway unless you use a powerful underwater strobe light mounted away from the lens axis.

Basically your camera is designed just to give you a taste of underwater photography and is very limited in what it can achieve. Even with a good specialist 35mm underwater camera such as the Sea & Sea MotorMarine II I usually find that I only have one or two usable shots on a 36 exposure roll, so if you do get the underwater photography bug then invest in a decent quality underwater digital model which accepts a proper external strobe lamp. The ratio of failed photos is similar, but at least you can review and delete them immediately without expense.

Auto mode in poor lighting (generally always indoors without flash) sets high ISO, which produces ugly amount of noise (graininess). What you need is to keep the ISO under 200 by either:
Shooting well lit scenes, using flash etc.
or
Uusing one of the manual programs (M, S, A, P) and setting the sensitivity via the F-menu.

I had the same issue mate, I found that because this camera is ISO1600 i had set ISO800 in the automatic mode. Yes! in automatic mode you can still change the ISO ratings, I had set it to 800 which screwed all my photos.

Now i have set it to Auto and the camera is back to its excellent form.

I know F10 was sold as ISO1600 camera and most users tried to use highest ISO and failed.

Its an excellent camera just dont use high iso

when you use high ISO like 800-1600 it will create big novice on image, and when you using law ISO it will be dark for sure.
so the solution is switch cam to TV mode and put into very law shutter speed and use ISO 200-400,make sure you are connected to tripod or else you will not get fine results with law shutter speed. point is when you use law shutter speed camera will take more light to censor even with law ISO your images will be perfect.

You have your ISO setting far too high - set 100 or 200 and get a magic improvement immediately !

Hi Stew,

Do the following:

ISO: 400
Shooting Mode: RAW or high JPEG
White Balance: Flash
Camera Mode: M
Camera Shutter: 30 or lower
Lens Aperture: 2.8
Flash Mode: A at 2.8
Flash: Wait until flash fully charged

Now, it's magic!
Send me some money for this tips when you make more money and produces great exposures:-)
Now, you're the top photographer in the town.

You can set ISO to 800 if you are not printing bigger than 8 X10.

Hope above are helpful to you and all photographers.

Alexander
[email protected]

Fuji does not have either, only an AntiBlur mode that favors high shutter speeds to combat both camera shake and action blur. Fuji may be betting that their high ISO capabilities allowing higher usable shutter speeds will make IS or AS an unnecessary feature. In a few weeks when the cameras hit the shelves we will know better how this really pans out.