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Re: soldering iron tips
It is very tempting to start soldering components onto the circuit board straight away, but please take time to identify all the parts first. You are much less likely to make a mistake if you do this!
1. Components stuck onto paper Stick all the components onto a sheet of paper using sticky tape.
2. Identify each component and write its name or value beside it.
3. Add the code (R1, R2, C1 etc.) if necessary.
Many projects from books and magazines label the components with codes (R1, R2, C1, D1 etc.) and you should use the project's parts list to find these codes if they are given.
4. Resistor values can be found using the resistor colour code which is explained on our Resistors page. You can print out and make your own Resistor Colour Code Calculator to help you.
5. Capacitor values can be difficult to find because there are many types with different labelling systems! The various systems are explained on our Capacitors page.
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Check the infrared sensor inside your TV, if no remote work with it. It might be faulty. It is low cost component, will have only 3 solder leads, will look somewhat like this.
Click this link. Do a search by entering the brand name to your device by
its search box at top right of the display window, because, posts are not
arranged in alphabetical order, but by brand name at first. You can get more details about how to replace it etc: by this site. Pull up older posts there.
1. ALLEN KEYS / SCREW DRIVER This is a measure tool used in opening and coupling of phones.
2. PICKER It is a 2 sided object when put together, you use them to pick up tinny components on the board, i.e. to pick some very small thing.
3. PIN It is a one sided object that is used to separate tinny led on the board
4. AVOW METER / DIGITAL AND ANALOGUE Meter are generally used to read components on the board, whether they are good or bad. DIGITAL METER This is a type of meter that display digitally with accurate value displayed, when used to read components whether they are good or bad. ANALOGUE METER This is the type of meter that displays analogously on the surface, when used to read component whether they are good or bad.
5. BOOSTER It is a mini box that can be used in boosting a dead battery from 0.0 volt to the voltage prescribed on the body of the battery and there are two types namely the foreign digital and local booster. FOREIGN BOOSTER / DIGITAL BOOSTER This is a major booster that will boost a battery and also power a dead phone. LOCAL BOOSTER It is a universal AC/DC adaptor, but it boost only dead batteries.
6. ENLARGEMENT LENS This lens is used in neutralizing some tinny chips and components on the board, it simply makes them look bigger in shape while viewing them.
7. CHEMICAL / THINNER AND SPIRIT This is the liquid used in washing the board before heating, aside washing, it also helps to evaporate water from the board and it is advised to use thinner or spirit for better dry.
8. FOREIGN AND LOCAL REWORK STATION It is generally known as a mini-box that enables a repairer to dry up wet components from the board, replace components and solder un-soldered components. FOREIGN REWORK STATION It's a mini box machine that has two outlets namely BLOWER - It drys up wet components on the board SOLDERING IRON - The second outlet that uses led to solder components on the board LOCAL REWORK STATION This mini woody structure has a 200 watts bulb inside that enable you dry up wet board and heat the board so as to solder un-soldered components.
9. PASTE This cream like liquid is applied on the cost of soldering which enables the component to solder well.
10. FLUX It's a cream like liquid when applied on the board on the cost of soldering, it separates tinny led from bridging together.
11. TINNY COPPERS It's a tinny coated wire used generally for lopping or external construction unit on the board
12. ERASER It is generally used to clean away dirt from the board before and after washing, especially the board interface.
13. RAZOR BLADE / SAND PAPER They are both used to file away roasts place in any handset so as to make them clean..
Check the video output section circuit for any loose solder terminals. This section can be located at the neck of the picture tube. It will be plugged on to it. A rectangular printed circuit board, have some components soldered on it. Check the solder terminals of these components for any loose contact. Take a special care to 'Red' output section. It will be best to resolder all the suspected solder terminals by applying a little more fresh solder, without making any solder bridge short in between adjecent solder terminals. If you want any more details, visit this site "Electro-help".
The problem of your tv is the thermal intermittent problem, this usually caused by loosed or cold solder on the solder part of the of the pcb. If you remove the back cover of your tv, try to look or observe the solder joints of the connector or use a magnifying glass to distinguish the cold solder. To solve this problem you should have a soldering iron, lead and soldering pump, when doing some soldering you should be careful you may accidentally solder separated pins or joints that can cause much damage to your unit. Or you can try first to unplug and plug in the connectors in the main power supply. Or you can contact a service technician to do it for you and save you from stress, NOTE be sure to unplug the unit when opening the back cover. Good day and best regards.
A soldering gun is used much the same as a soldering iron for melting solder mainly to connect electronic components to circuit boards. To use it you plug it into the electricity mains and press the trigger. This causes the metal tip to heat up. Allow a minute or so for it to reach full heat and press it to the components you want to solder together. When they heat up press the solder against them. The solder melts and runs on and between them forming a bond. Remove the soldering iron and release the trigger. Once the trigger is released the gun starts to cool down again.
If you've used a soldering iron before you'll probably find the gun more awkward as it cools down every time you release the trigger. It's really only useful for quick jobs where you're not going to need it every few minutes. For other jobs where a lot of soldering is involved a soldering iron is better. The advantage the soldering gun has over the soldering iron is that it heats much faster for quick jobs.
Use on the control buttons and other switches balance contact spray as the first step let it work for a few minutes.
Control the print for some loose components (solderings) by carefully some manipulation and movement on print and components with a wooden or plastic object, because solderings on active heat-conducting components have allways high priority on the end stage, and in power supply primary you can become early loose components in the solderings if the manufacturer has used leadfree solder. If you have after this no improvement then ALLWAYS refer the damaged to find components replace always twice (on both sides) each other replace if a damaged deformed capacitor or diode was found both as well left as right the same brand components , be carefull in replacements its very important because of in most repairs refurbishing for tonal influences Passive components as example (only suggestion) to take a capacitor 10Volt 330 MF then replace it for a 16 volt 330 mf the size should in most case be the same of the component its very important for tonal effects and balance, in most repairs is that more size format on capacity sounds better as the new order components become smaller on the same voltage its better to get the higher voltage capacitors with the same size as the old lower voltage ones.
it probably just needs some soldering then , when we get these in most of the time it needs new solder because after the set has been running the set heats up thus causing the solder joints to crack and not connect well , and the problem only gets worse as more components solder connection also start to crack and not make very good contact , this usually happens in the tuner solder joints and other components that create heat , so it will need to be looked at to find the bad solder . rca gave us a kit to fix some of the problems that happened , and it was a better solder with a paste that made a better hold on the heated components and connections
hope this helps