I would like instructions on how to remove the ice maker so I can repair/solder the broken wire? It's so cramped and I can only see the screw near the front of the ice maker. There are more attachment points but I can't find them. Thanks, barry

Hello Greig;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I do not know what type of ice maker you have. Some have wire arms on the side, some have a downward plastic curved arm and some have a paddle arm on the side.
Some ice makers when they harvest have a plastic ice mold that rotate and flex, others have a little heater that heats the mold then activates finger arms to rotate and sweep the cubes from the mold.
Bad Sensor? All ice makers have temperature sensors. The sensor activates the harvesting of ice cubes when it senses the cubes are frozen. On some plastic ice cube molds it is a white wire on the bottom of the mold. On the cast steel molds the sensor is in contact with the mold at the front end.
Bad Motor Module? All ice makers have a motor module. The module has a control board and plastic gearing for the motor with in the module. The motor module is the assembly in front of the ice maker. The motor module tells the water valve when & how much water to fill the mold. It tells the mold heater, on the cast steel molds when to turn on after it reads the temperature sensor and then it tells the motor when to start rotation.
Not all ice makers can be repaired. Most are solid state.
The ice maker with the cast steel mold can be repaired. Remove the ice maker - Unscrew the one screw under the ice maker. Loosen the 2 screws on top so you can lift up and remove the ice maker from the wall. With a small screw driver wedge in the wire harness connector to free the icemaker. Pop the front cover off (No screws). Unscrew the 3 screws on the motor module and remove. This part is replaceable. Inspect for Burn marks and broken gearing. Unscrew the 2 screws to the heater and mold assembly to access the sensor - this is replaceable. There is no way to test this sensor.

I have a Samsung RF265AABP model. I had the same problem on several occasions. One time the problem was a broken temperature sensor wire on the ice maker. The sensor assembly often gets snagged on the ice tray or scoop or something and falls down, making it more likely to snag, and prevents the ice maker from cycling when frozen. It is quite easy to remove the ice maker once you get the drawer removed from the slides. It is held in place by two plastic clips located near the back of the slides. Pop the clips out, and then lift the drawer out. Pull the front plastic cover off the ice maker, then remove the two screws holding it to the top of the freezer compartment. Slide the icemaker assembly forward about 1/2 inch and it will drop down. Unplug the wiring connector and the ice maker assembly will drop right out. The temperature sensor is located in a flexible rubber like unit that holds the sensor against the plastic water tray. This whole assembly often falls out, and may be found mixed in with the ice.

I fabricated an aluminum bracket from angle stock to hold the temperature sensor assembly in place, and used a small tie wrap to hold the wire to the bracket, up and out of the way after soldering the broken wire of course. The tie wrap is not shown in the photos below. I drilled and countersunk two holes for the 4-40 screws holding the aluminum bracket. The temperature sensor is not shown in the photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses over to the left in front of the aluminum bracket.



Aluminum bracket holding sensor in place.


Ice maker assembly showing screws holding it to freezer. It is upside down in this photo.

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Broken wires at the ice maker can cause that problem. It could be another temperature sensor as well of course. Check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Broken wires at the ice maker can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. This solution applies to a different model, RF265AABP, but may be similar. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens.

After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides).
Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out.





Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.



Aluminum bracket and screws




Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).