Has anyone had a problem on their Cassiopeia e125 with the screen going dark, like it has gone to standby mode. Even when you are working on the pda? The screen get dark almost like it has shut off, although you can barely see the screen info. It will also come back to normal for a few seconds, then go dark again. Soft reset doesn't do a thing, going to try the hard reset soon. Don't think it is a brightness or standby issue. Is it a backlight issue?
If anyone has this problem or knows of a solution please let me know. Thanks in advance.
Have you checked the screen control settings? I had the same problem on a E-125, and it turned out that I had a screen backlight auto shutdown time that was very short - this could be the easy solution - simply adjust the auto dimming timer in the settings control.
Controls setttings is a pull down menu under the "Start" button at top left corner of screen.
If it's not that - then back to Casio?
Good luck.
Bingo!
You hit the problem on the head. If you can still see an image, albeit extremely faint, and the Casio is still working, i.e. playing an mp3 file or whatever, then you definitely have a problem with the backlight. More times than not, this is either a daughterboard problem or a connection problem (rarely have I seen an actual bulb failure though it can happen). One of the more common causes is the tiny ribbon cable connector on the daughterboard. You might try to disassemble it, clean the contacts of the ribbon and reassemble the device.
I've also heard of people squeezing in the side of the case to temporarily effect repairs...this is normally more ominous.
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I had the same problem with an E125 which I brought off eBay that hadn't been used for several months.
I took out the backup battery and put the main battery in it's holder with a bare wire held onto the negative & positive terminals. When I turned on the charger, I held the other end of the bare wires onto a partly charged Nokia Battery (Also 3.7V internal). The current from this battery was enough to let the Casio start charging. After two minutes I disconnected the Nokia battery and gently tugged the bared wires free. The Casio kept on charging happily. After six hours I disconnected the AC charger, installed a new backup battery CR2032, and everything was go.
The Casio PDAs will quit charging very quickly if the battery is very, very discharged. If you continue to remove and re-insert the charger into the PDA's power socket, the recharging cycle will last longer and longer until finally the stupid thing will fully recharge its battery.
I have two Casio PDA's and three batteries that were recovered after a bit of tedious struggle to force the charging cycle to complete.
I doubt it...
I mean it is unlikely there is any incompatibility there.
Go to your device manager and make sure that your USB ports are installed and configured properly for your USB cradel.
Before turning off the device close all applications running in the background.
If this solves your problem it is time to do a full cleanup & adding some application like Gigabar or KillMe to help you quickly close the unused applications to free required memory.
You cannot find remote software for E-125 simply because the range of the IR emitters on E125 is simply too short.
If you are willing to di some surgery on the device - switch it for a higher range one from say E-100 - the earlier versions software should work on E-125 also.
As a rule the failure of the LCD on a Casio pertains to greying out of the top 1/3 portion of the screen. The touch screen - the part that senses your stylus inputs i.e. taps, double taps, tap & hold / drag continue to work.
Seems like the failure is not in the LCD but the fluorescent lamp at the top end of it. It could be the lamp itself or the inverter circuit.
Have an experienced technician check the lamp out. It is not a very diffucult item to replace. Nor is there any desoldering / soldering involved.
Pretty common problem, and is normally one of three possibilities:
1. Ribbon cable that connects the backlight daughterboard to the motherboard connector has gone bad, or contacts oxidized.
2. Daughterboard itself has gone bad...
3. Power problem or cpu problem not activating upon powerup. Not as likely.
4.The fluorescent tube itself may has blown.
The cure: carefully disassemble your 125, clean the ribbon contacts on both ends of the tiny ribbon cable, be careful, it is very fragile.
If that doesn't work, find someone who has a E125 and swap out ribbon cables and see that works, that will at least tell you if the cable is bad or not.
If that doesn't work, swap out daughterboards.
If that doesn't work, sell it for parts on EBay and buy a new one, because anything else will probably be too expensive.
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