Unit recently started heating intermittantly and then finally stopped heating altogether. All other systems, i.e., turntable, control panel indications, etc., still work normally.

When the unit displays a message like "Change Filter", It's not apparent to the user how the unit knew the filter needed to be changed. On many units, it monitors the amount of time it has been cooking and after say 100 hours, decides its time to change the filter. The unit doesn't know that the filter has been changed. The filter timer must be reset. Check your owners manual to find out how that is done.

quite likely your microwave is trying to prevent it self from self destruct, because if the fan is not keeping the electronics components cool enough while its running the high limit thermo will disconnect power from the heating circuit, if the fan is not working it should be replaced , that's a techs job.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/phillip_77d32603f8052503

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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The turntable fan and light all share the same feed, first check wiring for loose connections the problem though is most likely with the controller

The turntable system typically consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.

Here is a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.

If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.

To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

But if you've recently had trouble with the cooktop lights, then the control board may be damaged.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The original problem was probably a bad turntable motor, which is pretty easy to replace.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Now I'd say you have a bad door switch (whether upper or lower depends on the model number) or a problem with the door switch mount.

This is a pretty simple problem to fix, too: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The turntable system consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.

You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.

If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.

To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The turntable system consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.

You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.

If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.

To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If the turntable is not turning, you will get hot spots and uneven heating.

You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.

If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.

To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven.

You can get Samsung parts here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I would suspect either door switches or an intermittent control circuit board, either of which can be repaired. Opening the door while cooking (without first hitting the STOP pad) is the primary cause of door switch failure over time. I have a text file on my site called "doorsw.txt" which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems. You can find the file via a Google search. It will help you check and replace the door switches if you or an able friend is so inclined. In some cases, the problem is a bad connection or a bad relay on the control board. That's something we see fairly often, and we repair them for only $32.50 nationwide.