Maxp2055d ,,,what is the true power of this amp @ 0.5 ohms ? will it push my set of 12" audioque hdc3's they take 1,000watts rms 2,000watts max and you can burp @ 2500watts each,,,i need a amp with real and clean power,,,i dont know anything about lanzar but the price is good,,back in the day i payed a dollar a watt fot the old rf punch amps , jl and the orion amps,,lol

Is the sub dual voice coil?

It depends on whether you have the M2150, A2150, or E2150.

M2150 Class A/B Two-Channel Full-Range Amplifier Specifications:
Rated Power 14.4 V Stereo: 70 W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm, 110 W RMS x 2 @ 2 ohm
Rated Power 14.4 V Bridged: 140 W RMS x 1 @ 8 ohm, 220 W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
Rated Power 12.5 V Stereo: 45W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm, 75W RMS x 2 @ 2 ohm
Rated Power 12.5 V Bridged: 90W RMS x 1 @ 8 ohm, 150W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
THD at Rated Power: 12.5V: <0.08% THD, 20Hz-20kHz, 14.4V: <1% THD, 20Hz-20kHz
S/N Ratio: >104 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20Hz-20kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response: 10 Hz-25 kHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz, >100 @ 2 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz
Input Range: 200mV, 8V RMS

E2150 Class A/B Two-Channel Full-Range Amplifier Specifications:
Rated Power 12.5 V Stereo: 45W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm, 75W RMS x 2 @ 2 ohm
Rated Power 12.5 V Bridged: 90W RMS x 1 @ 8 ohm, 150W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
THD at Rated Power: <0.08% @ 4 ohm 20Hz-20kHz
S/N Ratio: >104 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20Hz-20kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response: 10Hz-25kHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz, >100 @ 2 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz
Input Range: 200mV, 8V RMS

A2150 Class A/B Two-Channel Amplifier Specifications:
Rated Power 12.5 V Stereo: 45W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm, 75W RMS x 2 @ 2 ohm
Rated Power 12.5 V Bridged: 150W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
THD at Rated Power: <1% @ 4 ohm 20Hz-20kHz
S/N Ratio: >104 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20Hz-20kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response: 10Hz-25kHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz, >100 @ 2 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz
Input Range: 200mV, 8V RMS

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Sure. Specs are listed below. I think it's designed for regular 2-channel input, isn't it?



Front Channels: 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

Rear Channels: 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V)

Subwoofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

THD at Rated Power: <0.03% @ 4 ohm (F&R), <0.05% @ 4 ohm (Sub)

S/N Ratio (F&R): >108.5 dB below rated power S/N Ratio (Sub): >95 dB below rated power

Frequency Response (front and rear): 5 Hz-30 KHz (+0, -1dB)

Frequency Response (sub channel): 5 Hz-500 Hz (+0, -1dB)

Damping Factor (front and rear): >200 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz

Damping Factor (sub channel): >500 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz

Input Range: switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS

Differential-Balanced Input Topology: (3 pairs of inputs)

Front Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope BP or HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Rear Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Sub Crossover: fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope LP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Preamp Output: 2-channel (full-range or LP)

Bass EQ: Variable boost up to 15db

Infrasonic Filter: defeatable 24dB/octave at 30 Hz

Left minus Right Ambience Circuit: ambient effect for rear channels

Front and rear speaker output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire

Dual mono subwoofer output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire

+12V and Ground connections: accept up to 4ga. Wire

Dimensions: 19.7"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H

your subs are the problem, not your amp, your wiring your subs paralelle, means dropping input ohmage, allowing your amp to over heat with minimal load, check the amp specs for running at low ohms, most hifonics amps are rated 2 ohms and higher, some however will run at 1 ohm, only on class b-a amps though.(competition) dropping ohmage will allow the amp to push more power to the voice coils, however the voice coils may not be rated for 1 ohm power, what ohmage are your coils rated at? do you have a min. of 100 amp inline fuse on your 1-0 awg wire? do you have internal fans? you can add mosfets to the amp but if you do so, you'll have to re-program your amps mother board.

Yes. The Kicker xs50 competition amp will l ! Pushs my old school autobahn aw1206t's very nicely and beats my 2 sundown sa15's senseless. Wire down to 1 ohm and bridge. People may say yeah rite. Ok. Thats ok.

Hello king3132,

Three 4 ohm subs can be wired parallel for a 1.34 ohm final load or series for a 12 ohm load. If you have the channels of the amp bridged, I hope that the subs are connected in series because the Sony XM-2200GTX is NOT rated for or stable at 1.34 ohms. It's only stable down to 4 ohms.

You definitely will not get the maximum potential of the subs from that amp. They can handle 400 watts RMS each (total 1,200 watts) and the amp is only capable of 500 watts RMS into 4 ohms (less at higher impedance), so each sub could only be getting a maximum of 166.6 watts RMS.

Hope this helps.

Hello monkey_flea, Your subs will share the amp output. And if you are not careful, you'll end up blowing them. The amp puts out 1300 watts RMS at 2ohms, the subs have an RMS power range of from 75-350 watts, and you'll be driving them with 650 watts each. A better power match would be to series the subs to present an 8ohm final load. This will reduce the output power to a level the subs can handle. Or you could buy 2 more 12.1's and connect them series-parallel for a 4ohm load and each sub would still be getting 325 watts RMS, just about the maximum they are rated to handle. Hope this helps.

your Volfenhag 12" subs are rated at 1200 watts they are only 600 watts rms and the Rockford punch p4004 is only 200 watts rms so the answer is yes it will work but if you get a amplifier that pushes out 500 - 600 watts rms you will love the sound from subs
there is nothing wrong with the Rockford amp it just wont pound out the bass as hard but the good news is you will never blow the subs with it
when buying amps or subs make sure to look at rms rating that is the true power they actually have ie. (sub box says 1200 watt you think powerful but if you divide it in 1/2 you actually get 600 watts rms) don't get me wrong that's a nice rating. for a sub but you will want to match that number with the amps rms rating or lower. The RMS is what makes the car pound the higher the RMS the better
hope this helps

1800W peak output at 2 ohms
975W peak output at 4 ohms
600W RMS (continuous) at 2 ohms
325W RMS (continuous) at 4 ohms
Variable LP crossover adjustable 35-250Hz
4 AWG power/ground inputs and RCA pass through
Low-pass filter
Bass boost 0-18dB adjustable remote punch bass EQ
Signal-to-noise ratio: >80dB
Line-level input


It is going into protect mode for a reason.
Disconnect the subs and turn everything on again. If the light comes on, the problem is internal and will need servicing by a technician.

well it is getting hot due to the amp drawing and pushing alot of current. try getting lower gage wiring for power to the amp and lower gage speaker wire.