Not powering up even when power is supplied and switch is on, was working then went to turn it on and no power, fuse is good, and wires are hook up correctly.

Ok, been awhile since I played with a Honda, but I believe in the KISS method.
#1 go buy a cheap $10 meter at harbor freight, Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, etc, etc. You can't just look at a fuse and say it's good, been there done that...LOL
#2 There used to be a fuse in the headlight bucket, check to see.
#3 real simple, did you leave your KILL switch off??? If not the check voltage to kill switch, make sure you have power coming out.
#4 check the ignition wire for the starter, when key is in on position or (start) position, make sure you have voltage. If you have power, follow it to your starter leads and kill switch.
#5 check voltage at your coils, Check for voltage coming out of coils. Just because you may or may not have spark, doesn't mean you have enough to start bike.

When you hooked in the LED's you either shorted wires to blow a fuse, over loaded a wire and possibly burned it in 2. Or you dislodged a connection someplace. Go back over everything you did again, and go buy a meter.

Sound like the fuse in the power supply went, you need a new power supply. check out www.microcenter.com

change the fuse

Hooked all wires up right??? Fuse is fine??? Somehow, I do not think this is the case. I wish I had a dollar for every time I have seen this happen....I would be a VERY rich man!

You do not need a dome lamp diagram. You need to replace Fuse #13 (10 Amp) in the Power Distribution Center in the engine compartment. This will make the power return to the PINK wire and get your dome lamps working.

The only way that the RED/WHITE wire is going to have power with the ignition switch off is if either the ignition switch is shorted to power or the RED/WHITE wire got hot enough to melt the insulation in the wire harness and short to another B+ wire. This wire is supposed to have power when the ignition switch is in the RUN and ACC positions. Make sure it is in the OFF position. If this wire still has power, then YES, you probably smoked the wiring harness. If this is the case, the dash should be removed so that full access to the wiring harness can be achieved, allowing a full inspection/repair of ALL of the damage (there are most likely several other wires in the harness that have also been damaged).

CHECK FUSE IF FUSE GOOD.HOOK A JUMPER WIRE TO GROUND AND GROUND WIPER MOTOR.TURN WIPER SWITCH ON IF WIPERS WORKS YOU HAVE TO FIX GROUND CONNECTION. IF WIPER STILL DONT WORK.REMOVE THE COWL COVER.TURN WIPER SWITCH ON TO SEE IF POWER GOING TO WIPER MOTOR IF YES.REMOVE WIPER MOTOR HOTWIRE IT.IF WIPER MOTOR DONT WORK REPLACE IT.IF WIPER MOTOR DO WORK CHECK FOR BINDING OR DAMAGE LINKAGES.IF POWER NOT GOING TO WIPER MOTOR AND FUSE GOOD.WIPER SWITCH FAULTY OR IT HAS BROKEN WIRE FROM SWITCH TO WIPER MOTOR.

This is usually caused by either a faulty power supply or a dirty switch. You can find out if it's the switch by pulling the wires off the motherboard where the power switch plugs in, and with the power supply plugged in, carefully short across the two pins. If the computer doesn't start, that rules out the power switch. The other likely culprit is the power supply. If you can get ahold of a different power supply, try hooking it up and power up the computer. If that daesn't work, chances are that your motherboard is shot. Good luck.

there are 2 power wires that supply stereos, one is to the ignition power {orange} and the other is constant power {red}, even though the radio works when the ignition is on the constant supply wire circuit is not functioning, check the fuses, alternativly, you will have to find the red wire from the back of the unit and trace where it is connected into, this supply to the red wire is faulty and may have to be re-routed to another supply. Good luck and safe driving

did you look for power comming out of your power switch....
dont tell me that you hooked it up backwards. if you did check the imput diodes

Hi

Does the power supply fan turn? When you first turn it on does the power supply fan twitch? You need to use a power supply tester. This will test the supply under load. What were the symptoms that made you decide to get a bigger supply? Is this a clone supply? I have seen cases of clone supplies not working in OEM equipment. Usually requires a simple wire change.

Your fuses are most likely out. The thing is, is that if any of those wires touch you can blow out some fuses, that may mess with the odometer, gas, oil and temp readings. More than likely your fuses have busted when you were changing out or even when you ran that wire directly from the battery.

Rixtarick

Hope that i could help you out. If worst came to worst, you would probably just need a continuity tester to see what wires were giving power, after you changed those blown out fuses.