Mt27f-u1 12v not working

You would need a multi-meter or voltmeter to trace the power path. Turn on the generator and wait until you hear the water feed solenoid stop. This means the water has reached the satisfied level and the pc board should have sent 24v to engage the contactor. On the actual pc board there is a section label "cont" which is what sends the 24v to the contactor the engage the heating element. Verify that you have 24v on the spade terminals going out to the contactor, if not then you may have a pc board issue. Second possibility is the contactor, if it is recieving 24v and it is not engaging then it's simply a bad contactor. Check the load side of the contactors with the blue wires. Lastly if these two steps check ok, then perform an ohm reading with a multimeter on the actual heating element(with the power off, put your two test leads on the two flathead screws that hold down the blue leads the go to the heating element). If you get an open reading then this may indicate a failed heating element. Pulling the heating element out on the left side panel will confirm any element failure.

What you got to do is what we call "chase the voltage" First you will need a 24v circuit tester
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25886-6-24V-Circuit-Tester/dp/B0014WIVX6

You may also need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8

The problem is 24volts is either not getting to the tiller head or you have a broken wire in the tiller head. Start at the headlight make sure its switched on. Use the circuit tester, put the clamp to ground, use the probe to find the 24volts, The hot side is the side wired in series with the switch. The tester will light up when it has voltage. Chase the wire back through the system. When you get to a cable or anywhere you can't see the wires use the VOM meter, disconnect the scooters batteries leaving the power switch on. Set the meter to read resistance scale high scale, short the probes together, zero the meter. Put one probe at the headlight the other probe at the connector you think the wire ends up at. Normally every wire is a different combination of colors like red; with a white stripe. Most of the time a wire ends up at a connector and the color code doesn't change. So if you are not getting continuity on any of the pins on the connector you know its got to go, you've isolated the open circuit too the tiler head. Here's a test you can run! Turn headlight on, power on for scooter, disconnect scooter battery, place one probe at head light. Disconnect tiller cable. Probe each pin, one of them hast to cause the meter to deflect to zero. If if doesn't the problem is in the tiller head. When working with little wires i like to use crochet needles. You can use the meter to check cables each pin in must have a pin out. If you don't get continuity between pins the cable is bad toss it.

whenever you read out any part with a meter you have to pull at least one of the wires off of the part you're checking,unplug the machine,slide it out,remove the back panel so you can see the broil wires and the ends of the element,pull off the wires and check it with a meter for continuity,set the meter on 20k ohms,touch the leads together and it should read anything but 1,then touch the leads to the ends of the element, if it stays on 1 the element is bad if you get any other reading other than 1 the element is good,also while you're back there but be careful,plug the machine back in with the element wired, set the meter to volts and check to see if you get 120 volts to the broil element if the element checks good,if you check the bake element you should have 240 volts,if the element is good you could have a broken wire or a bad computer board or also called the clock assy.i've seen the elements burn and break and short out the clock assy. and it doesn't mean the clock doesn't work,it's the way they're built the computer board is built in with the clock that's all so if the computer board gets damaged the clock still can work so if you check it with a meter

if you have an electrical meter this is how to test for bad t-stat heating relay. (this is for the most typical furnace setup in a typical home)
first you will need to find and do several things at the furnace.
find the MAIN furnace switch and turn off. switch should be mounted outside of furnace on either side of furnace cabinet. remove both furnace doors. find the electrical circuit board, it will be the square thing that almost all wires go to or come from. find the 24v (t-stat) connection screws on the circuit board. they should a row of small phillips screws, and there should be a minimum of 5 screws in a row. the screws will be labeled as follows (not in certain order) R W Y G C . The screws you will be concerned with are R, W, and C. If there is not a C screw you will substitute the C screw for a unpainted part of the furnace cabinet in your testing. The last thing to find is the door switch which should be mounted behind the lower door. It is mounted so when the door is attached the switch is depressed. Use some tape or something to depress the switch without the door on. you will not have enough hand to do it manually during testing. get your electrical meter and your ready to test. always remember that if the Main furnace switch is turned on any of the electrical connections, motors, etc. inside the furnace could be energized at any time.

step 1 : with main furnace switch on, both furnace doors removed, and door switch depressed go to your thermostat and turn a minimum of 5 degrees higher than ambient. if t-stat isnt on then something you did is wrong. check switches.

2: with newer t-stats there can be a delay. so wait 5 minutes then go to furnace.

3: put electrical meter in AC and in correct range if you have a cheapo meter. you will be reading 24v so correct range is the closest to 24v but must be above 24v. take your leads and put one on circuit board screw labeled R, other lead on C. you should read 24v or similar. minimum voltage should be about 22v. anything less than 20v there is a problem far before your thermostat. if you read 24v move on.

4: take your leads and put them on the W screw (heat) and C screw (common24v). You also should read 24v. If you get a reading less than 20v or no reading at all then you either have a bad thermostat or bad thermostat wire.

I can't help you with the speedometer as I have no idea about those things. I'm an old school biker and I work on old bikes that the dealer will no longer work on. But, here's how to check your charging system.


Here's how to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. Any lower than 14 volts, your battery will not be charged.

If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the alternator to see if it's generating sufficient voltage. You'll have to follow the wires from your voltage regulator going to the lower left front of your engine until you come to a plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts in the rubber plug. This is where you are going to test the voltage from your alternator. Since you'll be testing AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which contact, just one lead into each contact. Set your meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS with a 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts. Do not let the leads touch each other or the engine case or ground. Your meter should read at least 25 volts.

If you do not have the 25 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad and must be replaced. If you have 25 volts or more but not the 14 volt minimum at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. Make sure you voltage regulator is properly grounded. Check the condition of the wire coming from the regulator going to the battery. This wire is usually larger in diameter than the other two going to the alternator.


Good Luck & Ride Safe
Steve

The cap is a 35uf 370 vac, and the generator will not work without it. While you have it opened up, check out the diode, too. After it's been put back together, if it still doesn't put out, you may need to "flash" it. To do this take a 110 volt plug and cord, and plug it into one of the outlets on the generator. Start the generator engine and then *VERY BRIEFLY* touch the leads of the plugged-in 110 cord to the + and - terminals of a 12v battery. You should now have power available, so be very careful with the ends of the 110 volt cord as they are now "hot".

Hello. The first thing you need to do is test the voltage at the outlet. You can do this with a voltohm meter, anolog or digital. You could put a simple tester in there to see, but I feel that you need to know how much voltage is present. This is really easy to do. I'm going to post a link for you that will show you everything you need to know about using one of these meters. You can get them for under 20 dollars and be plenty sufficient for this test. Here's the link for the meter;
http://applianceassistant.com/safety/how_to_use_a_volt_meter.php

Take a look at the bottom picture first. When you have your meter set to read AC volts, you have to make sure you have it set on the next highest number past 240. You will probably have to set it to read 250 volts AC. You have a red test lead and a black test lead on the meter. It doesnt matter which one you put where when you do the test as far as color goes.
1. Insert one test lead into the neutral L shaped slot, and the other test lead into one of the rectangular slots. You should get a reading of around 110 volts.
2. Insert one test lead into the neutral L shaped slot (again) and the other test lead into the other rectangular slot. You should also get around 110 volts.
3. NOW insert one test lead into the rectangular slot, and the other into the opposite rectangular slot. You should now get around 240 volts.

These tests will tell if you if the outlet itself is getting the proper voltage from the service panel. The service panel uses 2 breakers or fuses to supply the outlet. That's why you have 110 volts going to each side. It's possible to have only one side working. Some dryers can work because one "leg" is getting power, but the other isn't so the dryer wont heat. But it's circumstantial to how the dryer is set up. MOVING ON

Now you will need to locate the terminal block on the back of the dryer. Just follow the cord into the back. It's usually covered by a panel that has to be removed. Make sure the dryer is unplugged first. This will be a live test, so you'll need to use caution when performing this. 220 volts is no joke. If you dont feel comfortable doing it, I'd call a technician.
You will need to remove the panel covering the terminal block. Down at the bottom is a picture similiar to what you're going to see. Inspect them visually at first to make sure there's no burnt wires, loose connections, etc. If everything looks normal, you will now need to plug it in and test the voltage on the screws where the wires attach.
First- set your meter up the same as above;

1. Touch one test lead to the far left screw, and the other test lead to the middle screw. You should get around 110 volts.
2. Touch one test lead to the far right screw, and the other test lead to the middle screw. You should also get around 110 volts.
3. Touch a test lead to the far right screw, and the far left screw. You should get around 240 volts.

If you dont get the proper voltage with these tests, you'll need to replace the cord to the dryer and perform the tests again. You might have to replace the terminal block inside the dryer, especially if it has some burn marks.


I hope that you find this helpful. The results of these tests will determine the next course of action. If you dont have any experience using a meter, dont be intimidated by it, it's not hard if you follow these instructions i've given and the instructions in the link.
If you have any questions, I will be more than happy to help you out. Let me know how it goes if you can.

Thanks for your time,
I tried to cover everything without making it too lengthy and boring.

Mike

I am going to give you some generic advice that works on all makes and models. First check the fuses, Pull them as they can loose contact, thus loose power. Check all the igntion, ECM/PCM and BCM, Fuel pump and relay, and injectors fuses. Best to check them all, but atleast these. Also check to see if there is a security issue, your manual should tell you how to reset it. Check the fuel pressure, just because you have fuel, doesn't mean you have enough pressure. Wiring harnesses are what I call idiot proof, You can not plug the wrong wire into the wrong part. Engineers got something right. Now if all that checks out then you need to work your way to the injector harness. Disconnect a few that are easy to access. First turn the key on and check for power, one wire will have 12 volts, the other wire goes to the ecm. A test light or volt meter will work. If you have power then you need to test the ecm, you can use a volt meter or there is a NOID test light you can get that is inexpensive at the parts store. using the meter put the leads to the harness leads and have someone crank the engine over, the meter should jump in voltage, it wont read 12 volts as it is on for milliseconds. if you use the noid light it will blink. Check several injector plugs.
When you get this far, Let me know as I have lots more. I don't want overload you to much.
Randy

I HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH A SIMILAR DE WALT COMPRESSOR.
FIRST THING-GET AN ELECTRICAL TEST METER,MAKE SURE THE POWER SOURCE HAS MINIMUM 110 VOLTS,LOW VOLTAGE IS A PROBLEM ON CONSTRUCTION SITES,BEING AN ELECTRICIAN FOR 21 YEARS I HAVE WASTED A LOT OF TIME LOOKING FOR PROBLEMS WITH MACHINES AND POWER TOOLS AND DID NOT LOOK AT THE OBVIOUS.MANY TOOLS WILL NOT WORK WITH LESS THAN 100 VOLTS,AND CAN ALSO BE DAMAGED BY LOW VOLTAGE.
IF THE VOLTAGE IS 110 VOLTS UP TO 125 VOLTS,THE NEXT STEP IS LOCATE AND CHECK THE CAPACITORS,THERE SHOULD BE 2,ONE IS START,THE OTHER IS RUN.REMOVE THEM ONE AT THE TIME TAKING CARE TO MARK WHAT WIRE GO TO WHAT TERMINAL.WITH A DIGITAL TEST METER ON CONTINUITY,PUT ONE LEAD TO EACH TERMINAL ON THE CAPACITOR,THE READING SHOULD START COUNTING UP OR DOWN,IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH WAY AS LONG AS IT KEEPS COUNTING,AFTER 30 SECONDS REVERSE THE LEADS TO THE OPPOSITE TERMINALS.THE READING SHOULD COUNT THE OPPOSITE WAY FROM THE FIRST READING,WATCH FOR 30 SECONDS.
IF YOU GET READINGS BOTH WAYS,THE CAPACITOR IS GOOD.INSTALL IT BACK ON THE MACHINE.
IF YOU GET NO READING OR JUST ONE WAY,THE CAPACITOR IS BAD AND MUST BE REPLACED.
REPEAT THE PROCESS ON THE OTHER CAPACITOR,REPLACE IF NEEDED.
THESE STEPS SHOULD SHOULD GET YOU UP AND RUNNING,BUT I HOPE IT IS JUST A SIMPLE LOW VOLTAGE PROBLEM.
LOW VOLTAGE PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY VERY LONG EXTENSION CORDS,OR WEAK BREAKERS.
IN THIS NEXT STEP,BE VERY CAREFUL,GETTING ENERGIZED COULD INJURE OR KILL YOU.
IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS,CALL AN ELECTRICIAN.
A GOOD INDICATION OF PROBLEMS IN THE NEXT CHECK OUT IS OTHER OUTLETS HAVING LOW VOLTAGE,MEANING MULTIBLE CIRCUITS

TO CHECK BREAKERS,REMOVE THE PANEL COVER OF THE POWER SOURCE FEEDING THE OUTLET YOU ARE PLUGED INTO.
WITH A DIGITAL METER,PUT THE BLACK LEAD TO GROUND,AND WITH ALL BREAKERS ON, TAKE THE RED LEAD AND GO TO THE SCREW HOLDING THE WIRE IN EACH 15 OR 20 AMP BREAKER TO VERIFY 110 MINIMUM VOLTS AT EACH BREAKER.
IF YOU FIND ONE BREAKER WITH LESS THAN 110 VOLTS,REPLACE IT.
IF YOU FIND EVERY OTHER BREAKER WITH LESS THAN 110 VOLTS GOING DOWN EACH SIDE,YOU HAVE MAIN POWER ISSUES AND SHOULD CALL A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.
BEST OF LUCK....

No most likely you need a heating element. Verify you have 110 volts going to the outlet were the fridge plugs into.