Usually the ribbon cable connection that powers the backlight is the problem.If you remove the four screws in the back and take off the back cover. (note that there are two tabs on both sides of the cover half way up)You can see the white ribbon cable on the left above the battery back housing. Gently wiggle it and see if the backlight goes on. The cable is attached with a small brown insert that holds it in. It is removable so you might be able to get an electronics shop to replace the cable connection or the cable itself.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You may be lucky like me .My wife turned on the Casio Lens down and got same problem as you.
I dismantled the front face of camera to gain access to the lens system and found that one of the plastic sprockets had its teeth slightly twisted!I managed to straightened these carefully with a knife and now Casio good as new....zoom also working perfectly.
This is an easy fix and from what I hear people are giving up on an out of warranty camera,when in fact they maybe abke to easily fix it themselves.
I dont mind helping anyone ...my email is [email protected].
You cannot find remote software for E-125 simply because the range of the IR emitters on E125 is simply too short.
If you are willing to di some surgery on the device - switch it for a higher range one from say E-100 - the earlier versions software should work on E-125 also.
Pretty common problem, and is normally one of three possibilities:
1. Ribbon cable that connects the backlight daughterboard to the motherboard connector has gone bad, or contacts oxidized.
2. Daughterboard itself has gone bad...
3. Power problem or cpu problem not activating upon powerup. Not as likely.
4.The fluorescent tube itself may has blown.
The cure: carefully disassemble your 125, clean the ribbon contacts on both ends of the tiny ribbon cable, be careful, it is very fragile.
If that doesn't work, find someone who has a E125 and swap out ribbon cables and see that works, that will at least tell you if the cable is bad or not.
If that doesn't work, swap out daughterboards.
If that doesn't work, sell it for parts on EBay and buy a new one, because anything else will probably be too expensive.
Try another CF card/accessory in the slot to determine if the CF socket on the E-125 is not damaged. Also run scandisk on it while plugged into the card reader on yopur PC.
There have been issues with 128 mb CF cards manufactured by SanDisk (who are OEM suppiers to several other brand names also ) randomly malfunctioning.
Inspect the pins in the CF slot on the PDA to see if any of the pins has been bent/corroded.
Hope this helps.
There are some overclocking programs available like through
www.jimmysoftware.com or even hardware fixes.
The one by jimmysoftware is for the iPAQ only.
iPAQ Overclocking software
I would strongely avoid doing the hardware fix.
The overclocking applies only to the processor itself and
does not take into account the I/O from the the processor to
the various other hadrware components.
Some games, video, and apps may perform better but
anything hardware related like PC card or CF cards that have
a function like modem, networking etc. . . can run into
timing related issues and not function.
At least the software version can be easily removed.