S5100 zoom out of focus

USUALLY at the 'hidden' end of your BRAKE PEDAL a BRAKE SWITCH resides... much like a doorbell button.

As the pedal is pressed, the BUTTON (within the Switch itself)... 'pops out' and the Switch turns on = your brake lights turn ON. Note the two "adjustment nuts" in Photo 1.

IF the SWITCH is not positioned/adjusted correctly ~ the brake lights STAY ON. Many are designed to STAY ON if the switch itself fails... The hope is "constant-on" condition will alert the owner/driver of a brake system problem!

Please know many brake light switches may be installed at the master brake cylinder (Photo 2). Note: No adjustment nuts.

The compensator bolt should be torqued to 90 ft lbs then another 45 degrees of stretch.

there are advanced color correction modes,
Blue or dark pictures/videos
Keep your shooting distance inside of 2ft to 3ft, depending on
visibility and ambient light.
If you are using only one light, considering adding another light
(dual lights) or/and external flash accessory. The ideal
set-up is a combination of a light plus flash.
Consider purchasing the SeaLife Wide Angle Lens (SL975). The
fisheye lens allows you to get closer to the subject and fit more
into to picture frame.

For SeaLife camera with external light accessory (No external flash):
1) Set the camera's scene mode to Sea mode or Snorkel mode
2) Change camera's PHOTO and VIDEO White Balance
settings to DAYLIGHT.
For SeaLife camera with external light and flash accessories:
1) Set the scene mode to Ext. Flash mode
2) Change the VIDEO White Balance setting to DAYLIGHT.
For other underwater camera brands:
1) Set the Scene mode to "Auto" or "Underwater" scene
mode, as recommended by the camera manufacturer.
2) You may also need to change the White Balance setting to
DAYLIGHT depending on the camera's underwater color
correction or if pictures/video turns out red.

I find it easier to edit photos in Picasa.

download it from here:

http://picasa.google.com/

Click on this link or copy and paste the complete link into your browser.

If I could be of further assistance, let me know. If this helps or solves the issue, please rate it and give a testimonial for my response

Thanks, Joe

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_8b8c2cd6ce148309

The SnapSights SS03 is a non waterproof camera supplied with 200 ISO film so you clearly have the SS01 model for 800 ISO. Both cameras have fixed aperture and shutter speed and rely on the wide exposure latitude of print film. 100 ISO is ideal if you have a camera with a wider aperture than yours, but if you use it then photos will be three stops underexposed; you'd possibly get away with this on land but underwater shots typically have more shadows than highlights and you'd lose a lot of photographic detail. By using 800 ISO the camera will produce photos which are noticeably grainy and with high contrast demonstrated by less detail in shadow areas and overexposed highlights, but for most purposes the photos will be acceptable and far better than none at all.

Colour negative film has a wide exposure latitude so you may wish to experiment with using 400 ISO or even 200 ISO. 400 will be one stop underexposed, but the printing stage can compensate to produce shots which are less grainy with better shadow details but which will lack some highlight detail. This can be partially compensated for if you tell the processing lab to "push process" your film at 800 ISO, but this will usually cost extra and for just one stop under I wouldn't bother, 200 ISO is really stretching it though and you may find that results are unacceptable unless you push process. Ultimately, it all depends upon how dark and how deep you go, but at much below 1,5m everything gets a strong blue colour cast anyway unless you use a powerful underwater strobe light mounted away from the lens axis.

Basically your camera is designed just to give you a taste of underwater photography and is very limited in what it can achieve. Even with a good specialist 35mm underwater camera such as the Sea & Sea MotorMarine II I usually find that I only have one or two usable shots on a 36 exposure roll, so if you do get the underwater photography bug then invest in a decent quality underwater digital model which accepts a proper external strobe lamp. The ratio of failed photos is similar, but at least you can review and delete them immediately without expense.

Good lord! That's a NICE underwater system you've got. What type of help are you asking for? Just from your equipment list, if everything is in good condition, you've got at least 1500.00 worth of stuff! A new 15mm sells for $2,240, the camera, new, $750.00, eiklite flash system is up there, the extra close up gear ain't cheap either! And a pelican case--well, if yer gonna go snorkeling or scuba, you're all set! The 28mm can be used for land lubbing or underwater. To properly prepare the camera, the most important thing is to check the condition of the o-ring around the film door. If any doubt, replace it!! The same applies with any other o-ring seal. *Properly* greased, an O-ring in good condition simply looks wet. Use a good quality, pure, silicone grease all over the ring and don't blob it on--It can be purchased just about anywhere. Check the o-rings on all the other equipment--same rule applies. Salt water damage is u-g-l-y. Before opening up the camera after being in salt water, rinse all equipment in fresh water and dry completely. Don't detach any cords or lenses until all are rinsed and dry! (When cameras and salt water come together improperly, think horror movie acid bath results--and you won't be far off) I used 36-picture rolls of film so I wouldn't have to open the cam as much. Heh, in the excitement of photoing fish, yer gonna burn some film.Hope I assisted you!---Rick

You are not doing anything wrong with your white balance, white balance is very difficult under water, and you should be careful, because your mask might be tinted a certain color, I reccommend leving you white balance normal, then adjusting in photoshop, take a white object down there and hold it over a non important part of the picture, to help with adjusting in photoshop, then crop the object out of the final image. Focusing underwater is difficut as well, as dater distorts light, there is nothing that you can do to keep the water from distorting the light, but if you go to apeture priorities, you can increase your apeture to between f7.2 and f11 to reduce blur (to keep the picture from being too dark and the shutter from being too slow, you can increade your ISO)

the lens may be stuck ... that is not coming out or not returning in either condition causes it to do something like that ,i.e blingink red light or an error code etc .... solution is that you'll need to open up the camera with a set of precission screw drivers and manually turn in or out the lens to start it back in operation either ways its a bit technical if you never did it before ....could be caused by moisture getting into the camera .....

My girlfirend just got me this camera and I've noticed that it takes fine pictures when the lighting is good. Under low light (i.e. underwater or in the dark) it's not so hot. I don't think there is a fix for that.

Remove the Olympus software.
Let Windows find them with the Camera/Scanner Wizard.
It is likely the laptop has not the memory resources to receive all the photos in one hit so try in batches of 10 or so.