The drum is getting very tight as if it is stuck especially when one uses the spinning

open door and see if the drum can be moved up and down or side to side a lot. if it can, then you need a new bearing most likely. this would most likely only happen on a older washer that has been used quite a bit. repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com both have very good videos to show how the bearing can be replaced. takes some time and work, but if everything else on the washer is good, it could be worth the trouble. good luck.

Sounds like bearing and spider have gone, spider is the support on the drum which goes through the tub. then the wheel fits onto it. Open the door and see if you can lift the drum, if the drum lifts with a clunk or with ease then this will confirm the problem

Some slippery material has deposited on the motor pulley. Clean it with a abrasive paper lightly. Also the inner side of the belt which comes in contact with pulley with light abrasive paper. Also make sure the belt is tight so that it can grip the pulley. If all this fails, it means the belt has become loose over prolonged use and requires replacement.

To check to see if the drum is free, spin the drum by hand, there should be no resistane at all.
If there is, then it could be the drum bearings are siezed, or there could be something stuck between the inner and outer drum.
If drum is free, then try again, they are tight to fit, I assume you have right size belt?

the drive motor if its not turning then the drum wont turn, also if its sliped the belt off thats another reson why and one more thing to look at is how tight is the belt on the drum,,, is it just sliping round it? is the drum very tight to turn by hand? are the drum bearings jamed up, is any thing stuck behind the drum? ??? like one of the kid's?
i hope this is helpfull to you

It appears as though this is a known problem with the spin control board component, so ordering a new board should solve the problem.

Looks like you have either a stuck drum (does not spin) or an electrical fault that make the washer think the drum is not moving.

From a 2006 Technical Bulletin:

E3: Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)

Specifically, it could be:

1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause.
2. Hall Sensor (integral part of motor) fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.

Unless you are really overloading your machine you likely have an electrical fault, or a failure in the drive train--especially if the problem is intermittent. Probably time to call in a technician.

time to get out some agression!

This will be a messy and rusty job. you'll need a big heavy hammer and a couple of pry bars to get the drums off.
before you proceed with taking your frustrations out on rusty drums, scrape as much as the crud off of the backing plate as possible, hopefully you'll find a oval rubber plug or two in the plate.
pull out the plugs and look through them with a light to see if you can see a little gear inside. you can use a small pry bar to turn the gear, which when turned the right way, will let the drum spin freely without any rubbing on the shoes. if no plug...the drums come off with just a bit more effort, either way the process is the same from here on out:

start by using the big hammer and hitting the face of the drum (where the wheel mates to it) hit the outside edge of it all the way around with a bunch of force. don't worry about damage, it's very hard to hurt the originals anyway. you should have a whole bunch of dirt and soot falling to the ground if you're doing it right.

Next, go to the back side of the drum and criss crossing with every few hits to jar one side and then another, thry to knock the drum off the axle until you can get the pry bars between the drum and the backing plate. sometimes the drum will come off just from using the hammer.

oce you can get the pry bars in, just use them as levers to "walk" the drum off.

once they come off, replace any broken springs, bad shoes, and wheel cylinders that are leaking. ( check the wheel cylinders by pulling back the rubber seals at each end of the cylinder, if there is fluid in the seals, the wheel cylinders are leaking and should be replaced.)

after everything looks good, turn the little gear a little bit at a time, and try to put the new drum on. once the new drum slides one the shoes, (it should take a little effort to get them on) spin them a few times and listen for a steady drag of the shoes rubbing. you should be able to spin them with little effort, and they should slow down fairly quickly. if they stop right when you let go, they're a bit tight (loosen the adjuster) if they keep spinning and spinning with little drag, they're too loose (tighten the adjuster)

hope the job goes well!
-shane

do you actually see the motor spinning? or think you hear it, check the belt hasn't come off, or gone slack, it needs to be fairly tight but not too tight, if the belt and pulley go round but the drum doesn't then you have serious damage and need a new inner drum hope i have helped and if i can help more get back to me, i am an appliance engineer of 20 years

Sounds like the switch which cuts the machine off when the load is unbalanced. My guess is that: This switch is being triggered too easily The springs holding the bowl up are either stretched or one is broken; The machine may not be level.