Maxxheadroom posted the solution that worked for me -
The problem as I noticed it was that the washer would start making a super high-pitched and very loud whirring noise during the spin cycle, and that when I would open the lid, the drum would not be spinning, but when I would close the lid, the drum would start spinning. I was okay with this during that load but after reading here and taking it apart, I realized what had happened:
The agitator dogs are supposed to have a 3-toothed profile on each one, but they become worn over time due to being made of a soft plastic. The dogs should "throw out" into an inner ring gear during normal operation, turning the entire drum. But when they became worn enough to slip, they would still throw out, grinding them at very high speed into the inner ring gear. Since they are made of a softer plastic than the gear, they were just getting more and more worn.
I assume the way this was supposed to fix itself was that when the outer tooth on the dog became worn, the next one would engage, but that didn't happen.
Because the dogs are made of such a soft plastic, I was able to cut a new tooth profile into each one, so that when they were put back in they would function correctly. It takes very little effort and a few minutes with an x-acto knife to cut the right profile.
I'm going to buy the replacement dogs, which being a manufacturer substitute will hopefully be made with a better tooth profile, from harder plastic, or both.
As another note, who knows how long the dogs weren't engaged correctly during agitation, causing clothes to sit without really being washed, but without the high pitched air raid siren. So probably a good idea to replace or repair them immediately, even if you can get it to work intermittently.
SOURCE: Kenmore Washer won't Agitate
gearbox internal fault, major repair, not really a do it yourself job.
SOURCE: trouble shooting kenmore washing machine 80 series.
if it agitates in the first rinse but not he second then it may be the timer.
a little more details would help.
SOURCE: kenmore elite won't agitate properly
Does the bottom of your agitator work correctly? We had the same problem if you pop the cap off the top of your agitator there is a cam in there with 3 dogs that engage the agitator causing it to spin. If the bottom part is agitating correctly then chances are the dogs in the cam assembly are shot. If the bottom is agitating correctly then it is very possible you have something stuck under the bottom section of the agitator. If this is the case remove the top cover (same as before it's just a lid that pops off) inside you will see a 1/2" square use a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3" or 6" extension unscrew this piece remove the top section of the agitator then the bottom. Once the bottom is out check to make sure all is clear inside the washer. Reassemble in the reverse order making sure the lower section sits all the way down on the splines for the drive mechanism. If neither one of those solve the problem I would suspect you have an issue in the drive train of the washer.
SOURCE: dual action kenmore 70 series washer need to remove agitator
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
It sounds as if your "Agitator Dogs" are damaged or broken. These are plastic pieces that allow the top agitator to turn only one way.
Please see the following for how to access and replace them if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=136&osCsid=39649e541343127154c647348d1156d9
Basically,
1. Remove the fabric softener dispenser.
2. Using a short flat blade screwdriver, remove the cap.
3. You may see a 1/2" square plastic nut.
I've used a 1/2" extension for a socket set to remove the nut.
4. Pull the top agitator off and turn it over carefully.
You should see the agitator dogs (per the illustrations).
Replace them if necessary and re-mount the agitator, tighten the bolt carefully, put the cap and fabric softener dispenser back on and the top part of the agitator should only turn one way.
SOURCE: kenmore 80 series washer is making a noise
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6
I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.
Within the transmission are a set of plastic cams that raise the agitator gear when moving into the spin cycle. If the cams are worn, the gear won't lift high enough (about 1/18") and the gears will grind.
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.
Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.
Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.
Testimonial: "Thanks, this was helpful. Unfortunately, we couldn't locate any broken parts. "
273 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×