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I own a Mossberg Model A "Spotshot" 20X target spotting scope which I bought back in 1953. It is in excellent condition except for the fact that all of the internal tubes and lenses were removed for cleaning some years ago and I lost the order in which they have to be re-assembled. The optical train consists of the following: 1. optical "stop" with 1/2 " hole, thickness 1 mm 2. aluminum tube spacer, length 41 mm 3. " " " " " length 19 mm 4. " " " " " length 18 mm 5. " " " " " length 5 mm 6. Lens, dia 12 mm, focal length 22 mm 7. Lens, dia 9 mm, focal length 16 mm 8. Lens, dia 3 mm, focal length 22 mm 9. compression coil spring 10. objective and eyepiece ( No question about where they go.) I measured the focal lengths using the sun as the source, and a mm scale. They are approximate. I thought I could use the above information to figure out the order of assembly, but so far without success. I'm down to trial and error, which is driving me nuts. I sure hope you can help. Thanks in advance for your help.

Posted by victor aiello on

  • 1 more comment 
  • Lewis P. Feb 13, 2013

    I have an OF Mosssberg Model A Spotshot. Just reload the components as they are laid out in this photo of the parts list.

  • Lewis P. Feb 13, 2013

    And its not rocket science. No adjustments, just put the parts back in the tube and screw the eyepiece on. Good to go.

  • Ignacio Arango
    Ignacio Arango Mar 08, 2019

    Please, where can i find this photo of the part list with better resolution? Thanks

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2 Answers

frank thomas wilson

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As I had rebuilt many zoom lenses in my lifetime the ground glass on the back side is what you are looking through on any scope. It magnafies that way to capture the entire image of the frame your focussing onto. Now the lens the nearest to the eye is producing the smallest image and graduate in a larger size each steped up.. Look at the below link to get an idea

I own a Mossberg Model - lensflare_elements.png

Posted on Jul 08, 2011

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Joe Lalumia aka TelescopeMan

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No one except a scope optician can advise you-- sorry. And the scope will also need to be collimated again on an optical bench.

Stop wasting your time and get another new one.

Posted on Jul 05, 2011

  • Joe Lalumia aka TelescopeMan

    Again you will not find anyone who knows how all these parts go together -- and if you did the cost of reassembling and collimating will exceed the value of the scope by several times the value. This is like trying to get a $69 DVD player fixed. It cost too much-- better to buy a new one . A good spotting scope is less than $100.

    Like this one:http://www.amazon.com/Meade-81011-Travel...

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Hello, Roger -

Fixya.com is a website intended for asking and answering questions on how to go about repairing things. Fixya.com is not a website which can provide valuation estimates for anything, except perhaps the cost of repairing some item.

I found the following information on the L.C. Smith Collectors Association website:
https://lcsca.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=274&club_id=43784
FAQs
General Information
How can I determine the value of my L.C. Smith?
(Quote)
Gun value is determined by grade and gauge rarity, amount of remaining original finishes, condition of mechanics and wood, and an intangible called "Collectability" (collectible gun values can vary upwards and downwards with demand fluctuations).

Another important factor impacting value is the "Historical Factor." In those rare instances, an otherwise low-grade and abused 1890 hammer gun, worth only the price of the nails used to hang it over the mantle, could be worth thousands of dollars if its provenance can be unquestionably connected to a colorful and legendary historical figure such as Doc Holliday or member of the Dalton gang; a famous show person or shooter such as Annie Oakley or Captain A.H. Bogardus; or a Hollywood actor such as Clark Gable or Humphrey Bogart.

Since it is impossible to accurately assess gun condition and originality, either by description or internet image postings, the L.C. Smith Collectors Association cannot, and does not provide estimates of gun value.

Possible sources for such value determinations include various internet auction sites, like GunBroker, Guns International, DoubleGunShop.com; and, outside the internet, The Blue Book of Gun Values, published each year and used by all gun dealers. Copies of this book are available in almost every gun shop and book store; and should also be available in your local library. Pay particular attention to the "condition" examples featured at the front portion of this book when evaluating your gun.

The Shotgun World website has a forum for questions regarding "Shotgun I.D. and Value".
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=5
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=423424
Often, dealers who specialize in vintage double guns are willing to provide a written estimate of value for insurance purposes. When you ask a dealer to appraise your gun, understand what it is you want to know. If you tell the dealer you wish to sell the gun, you will receive a "wholesale" value. The dealer would be buying to resell, and the difference between his cost and the sales price is his profit. If you ask for a value for insurance purposes, you will receive a high valuation that is most likely more that the gun would bring on the open retail market; therefore the actual value of the gun lies somewhere between the wholesale and appraised value of the gun.
Also remember that "sentiment" is not a value factor; and therefore, never enters into any estimate of gun value. A part of family history is invaluable...to the family...but not to a purchaser of that "family treasure".

To better estimate/understand gun value, it is also helpful to visit large gun shows (like the Las Vegas Antique Arms Show or Wanamaker Gun Show in Tulsa), and note the prices of guns in similar condition and grade as yours.

Finally, please remember that "Knowledge Is Power", and the more research you do, the better you are prepared. Don't be timid about asking for information on the Forum; and additionally, we suggest you begin your research with a copy of John Houchins' in-depth work on the Smith gun, "L.C. Smith, The Legend Lives."

Warmest regards,
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(End quote)

Best wishes.

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1 Answer

How to aim on a shotgun for still targets at 20 yard with shot 4 steel shot


Hi,
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There are quite a few web pages with instructions on how to mount a scope on a rifle.

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This is a link to a YouTube video demonstrating the mounting of a scope:
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I have a small frame 7 shot 22 Cal. break top H&R revolver. I was told my grandfather carried it in WWI. Serial# 371177. I would like to know the manufacture date and if it was an Army issue.


James

Decoding H&R serial numbers is not easy and it takes up quite a bit of the H&R book as different models usually have seperate serial number series. gererally speaking there were three types of serial number series.
Pre 1905 (1904 and before) which were more like batch numbers and usually ran from 1 to 99,999. on some models there was a different series every year.
Post 1904 (1905 to 1939) one single series starting at 1 and going into the middle 6 digits (some third model auto-ejecting revolvers have been observed with number in the 800,000 range.
Ift here does not look like there are any markings on the left side of the barrel other than the caliber this would be the premier model fitted with extra cost oversize grips and 6 inch barrel. during the same time (1925-1934)frame H&R offered this revolver as the H&R TARGET (aka model 766) the only difference was H&R Target was marked on the barrel. by the time the premier model was fitted with a longer barrel and oversize grips the cost was about the same for the two models. the offering of the H&R Target model was just another way to try to sell more revolver. factory serial numbers are not available for this model so i believe this revolver was manufactured before the H&R Target was introduced in 1924 (most likely 1920 to 1923)
below is information of both models.

H&R PREMER SECOND MODEL SMALL FRAME TOP BREAK R.F. & C.F. ----------1905-1941
Small fame double action top break revolver with double top post barrel latch; calibers and cylinder capacity, 22 rimfire-7 rounds, 32 S&W, 5 rounds; automatic cylinder stop; standard finish Nickel with case harden hammer and barrel latch; standard barrel length 3 inches, with 2, 4, 5 and 6 inches available as optional; HAS CALIBER MARKINGS ON LEFT SIDE OF BARREL WAS MANUFACTURED FOR SMOKELESS POWDER CARTRIDGE PRESSURES.
There has not been enough data gathered on serial number to try to come up with a serial number range for the different variations.
First Variation, model name & caliber marked on left side of barrel, patent dates 5-14-89, 4-2-95, 4-7-96---------------1905-Only
Second Variation, model name & caliber marked on left side of barrel, patent dates 4-2-95, 4-7-96-------------------1906-1908
Third Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel, patent date 10-8-95-------1909-1913
Fourth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel, no patent date, state not spelled out in address (MASS)---------1914-1915
Fifth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel same as 4th except different font used in barrel markings----------1914-1915
Sixth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel. State name in barrel marking spelled out (MASSACHUSETTS)-----1916-1924
Seventh Variation, new grip frame, there is no step down for the grip panels to fit into-----1925-1942
After 1930 listed in catalogs as; PREMIER No. 30 .22 Rimfire 7 shot & PREMIER No. 35.32 S&W 5 shot
VALUE: 100%=$265 60%=$75 Add 10% premium for blue finish; 20% premium 4", 5" or 6" barrel; 20% premium for 22 rimfire caliber; 10% premium for 7th variation
If this is a top break it is a H&R Premier model manufactured in the 1924 to 1930 era or one of its variations. if it is a solid frame model it is a model 1906 or one of its variations manufactured in the 1932 to 1937 era. without a picture or knowning the exact markings i can't give you an exact model.
1940 and after letter codes used to denote year of manufacture. starting with A in 1940 and going to BC in 1986.
Caliber markings on the side of the barrel ALWAYS indicate 1905 or after manufacture. when H&R made the switch to smokeless powder in 1905 they started marking the caliber on the left side of the barrel of all their handguns. no caliber markings = black powder, caliber markings = smokeless powder.
Please keep in mind that H&R did not always obey their own rules and there are exception to every rule. during 1890 though 1904 H&R was manufacturing so many top break revolvers they starting using a letter code after 100,000 had been reached. these letter code were stamped along with the serial number on the bottom of the top strap (the cylinder had to be removed to see this location).
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Pete

Apr 11, 2017 | Firearms

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