I know my Suply line goes to 1 and 2 terminals . Which terminals to I use for a120 outside light. There are 3 # 3,4,5

Horizontal sweep absent, is the fault. Vertical sweep is OK. Check for any loose solder terminals or loose connection at the connection goes to deflection yoke. Check all the capacitors related to horizontal scan output. google.com/+GopakumarGopalan

if it won't trip it, the on pin is not lining up right and u need to take it off and put it making sure it is right. if that's not it u got a bad timer

Trying to upgrade this to a rainbird. The black is line 1 and 2, I'm not positive about what happens next.

3 wires -- Outside two wires (Line 1 and Line 2) Center (Nutral).
4 wires-- Green (ground) Red (Line 1) White (Nutral) Black (Line 2).

You have a terminal block on the back of the dryer that has only space for three wires. The Red and Black go on the out side two posts or screws (does not matter which is on the right or left). The White wire goes in the center. The forth and final wire is the Green which should go under a ground screw located near the terminal block. This screw is usually indicated by the ground symbol which is three horizontal lines that decrease in size as the go down. If there is a copper "bridge" from the center of the terminal block to the ground screw remove and discard.

Cheers.

1) Fireman's switch automatically turns off heater few minutes before turning off pump.
Not all pool timers have fireman's switch.
If old timer did not have it, then don't worry about it.
P1353 has wires marked for fireman's switch, so simply don't use them if you don't want to.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Intermatic-P1353-manual.pdf
page 21 of manual shows wiring for fireman's switch.

2) T104 and P1353 comparison
Difference 1: T104 turns OFF both hot wires, while P1353 turns Off 1 hot wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Compare-120-and-240.html
Difference 2: T104 controls 1 240V load with 1 time schedule, while P1353 controls 3 different 240V loads, each with different time schedule.
Check that wire(s) coming from breaker can handle all 3 loads.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

3) 240Volt T104 is wired as follows:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-240-Volt-400.jpg
Hot1 from breaker connects to T104 terminal 1
Hot2 from breaker connects to T104 terminal 3
There is constant power on terminals 1 and 3, each terminal has 120V when combined makes the 240V circuit.
Load1 wire connects to T104 terminal 2
Load2 wire connects to T104 terminal 4
Terminals 2 and 4 have power whenever timer turns ON

4) Definition:
In electric wiring, Line means power from breaker, and Load means wire going to light,fan, motor, pump.

5) Converting T104 to P1353
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/P1353-timer-350.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/P1353-terminals-566.jpg
Hot1 from breaker connects to P1353 terminal 1
Hot2 from breaker connects to P1353 terminal 2
This will power timer electronics and timer clock and switches.

Jumper wire is placed from Hot1 at terminal 1 to each Line terminals 3 5 and 7.
This will put power at the switch, and when switch turns ON, then power will flow from Line wires to Load wires and then on to the Load.
Load 1 connects to terminal 4, Load 2 connects to terminal 6, Load 3 connects to terminal 8
To complete each 240V circuit, Hot2 is connected directly to each Load.

6) You say 'salt' system connects to terminals 1 and 3 on T104, then those wires are carrying constant 240V to that device. So Salt system connects to terminals 1 and 2 on P1353

7) Get a second opinion:
I frequently contact Intermatic for various problems.
P1353 is fairly new product, and manual is long, and I might not fully understand your problem or wiring.
Intermatic answers their email.
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

The black power supply wire goes to the #1 terminal (LINE). The black fixture wire goes to the #2 terminal (LOAD). Both white (neutral) wires go to the "A" terminal.

Ok this is a GFCI switch receptacle combo. You will connect the incoming cable to the incoming terminals on the Recptacle. White goes to Line (silver) terminal Blk goes to Line (brass) terminal. For the light connect the white to the load terminal (silver) Then take a short black wire and connect from the Load (brass) terminal to one of the switch therminals. Connect the remaining outgoing black wire to the other switch terminal (at bottom of switch) connect both green wires to green ground screw. (best to "pigtail" ground wires so only one wire on terminal. This will give lights GFCI protection also good for hanging lights in a bathroom.

3 terminals.. 1 power input & 2 x outputs

Main positive goes to 1 terminal = power in to switch.

The anchor goes to another terminal = power out from switch to anchor

3rd terminal is another output for lights/anchor.

The wiring is incorrect. The wiring diagram for that timer is misleading. The 120 volt clock timer motor is connected internally to the "A" (neutral) terminal and the #3 terminal. The "A" (neutral) terminal is to the immediate left of the #1 terminal.
Here's how to do the wiring for your use, (assuming a 120 volt supply circuit and a 120 volt light circuit):
Connect the incoming power (line) black wire to terminal # 3. Connect the incoming (neutral) white wire to terminal "A".
Connect the outgoing (load) black wire to terminal # 4.
Connect the outgoing (neutral) white wire to terminal "A".

when you line up the new cord have the cord point down and the cord is ok to install. either of the outside wires go to outside terminals . th important thing is to get the middle wire to the center terminal