What does the small screw next to the higher jockey wheel adjust ?

There is a round jockey wheel that turns the tape wheel, take of top cover off by finding screws, either buy a new jockey wheel, or boil the wheel in water for 10 minutes to make rubber soft.

good luck on this one the timing belt on Volvo is very important & IMHO I would not attempt this as if it go's or not fitted correctly your talking big bill to repair I had my dealer do mine the kit consists of timing belt , adjuster & jockey wheel, & its advisable depending on mileage to change the water pump also to change the aux belt along with its adjuster & jockey & to check free wheeling pulley if on your model & I believe that Volvo say 108,000 miles or 6 years old whatever comes first for this service hope this helps

Replacing jockey wheels is one of the easier tasks on a bike. You will two standard, 11 tooth jockey wheels. Investing in metal ones with ball bearings is a good idea. Use an aallen key to remove and replace one at a time, taking particular attention to the way the CHAIN goes around each jockey wheel.

Did you also remove the derailleur from the bike to do this? When you put it back on there's a tension screw that normally sits on a flat tab or portion of the right dropout to keep the entire assembly rotated toward the rear of the bike.

Or just go here. Pictures speak louder than words.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

Derailleur adjustment takes time to master. Try this out:
First, wash your drive train out really thoroughly and use a degreaser (Simple Green works really well) and a chain brush on the derailleur and chain. Rinse it off and let it dry, then relubricate the chain (and ONLY the chain - never lubricate your derailleur). Now flip your bike onto the bars and saddle so you can crank while you shift manually. Use the middle chainring up front to adjust the rear gears. Okay, shift into your highest gear in the back and then release the derailleur cable. Use this opportunity to make certain your "H" setting is good; the derailleur's jockey wheel should be perfectly aligned over the small cog. Now manually push the derailleur to the lowest gear (while pedaling) and set the "L" so the jockey wheel is immediately outside the last cog. crank back to the high gear. Turn the barrel adjuster for the cable tension to its half-way point (figured by unscrewing it all the way and then counting revolutions as you screw it back in). Pull the cable taut and reattach it. Shift into your middle gear (or if it is an even number of gears, pick one of the two middle gears). Use the barrel adjuster to get the jockey wheel exactly over the correct cog. Pedal and shift through the gears. In each gear, back-pedal to make sure the chain is not skipping. You should be able to free-wheel without problem in every gear on a properly adjusted drive train. If the gears are requiring much adjustment on the barrel adjuster, then you may have a bent derailleur hanger. This can be straightened manually without tools if you have a good eye and patience. If it goe that far, come back and repost "bent derailleur hanger".

i hope this helps
-matthew

Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Hi,

This one's easy enough.. If you move the derailer through it's full stretch you will see that part of it will be blocked in each direction by a small screw. These screw adjusters are to stop the chain from running over the end gears, and sometimes if they're too tight they can stop the chain from reaching the gears in the first place.
A small screwdriver is all you should need, turn the bike upside down, loosen these screws completely and then change gear to one end first until it runs smoothly on the chain and then do the same with the other.
These are designed to be adjustable so you can add or remove gears/change wheel sizes etc and then readjust to run smoothly..

Hope this helps..

Is it a long screw running into the derailleur hanger? This sets the distance from the cassette to the jockey wheel. You use it to pull the jockey wheel away from the large cassette cog if the chain is having trouble clearing it. You'll know if it is happening because the bike will be making more noise in the low gear and it will sometimes want to skip out of gear.

Front or rear? What is it doing?
Flip the bike over onto the handlebars and saddle and let us fix it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

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