I have a GE washer that during the spin cycle / rinse on my washer the water won't shut off and will run and run until I turn the water valve off. This occurs during spin cycle when it adds water but the water never shuts off and it will run and overflow even after the cycle is over and the washer actually thinks it is done! Please help me, I can't afford a new washer right now!

Sears Parts Direct is one source of the parts diagrams, https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/1vc37q1bdj-003204/lg-wm3987hw-washer-parts . See the Dispenser assembly parts diagram for the water inlet valve. If you can watch the entire cycle, try turning off the shut-off valves for the washer inlet hoses after the rinse cycle and before the dry cycle starts. Water should not flow into the washer/dryer with the shut-offs closed.

I've seen inlet valve solenoids fail in the open position or in the closed position. I've never seen a control board that sent open messages randomly. (Sometimes, there is damage to the control board or corrosion or damaged wiring that stops the control board from sending the open/closed message to the solenoid.)

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

when the washer goes into rinse cycle it only uses cold water so clothes don't rinkle,so most likey you have a problem with your cold water,do this,shut down the water to the washer,remove the water lines from the back of washer and mark them so you know how they came off,stick the hoses into the washer if they reach or a bucket,turn on the cold water to see if water is coming out of hose,if water does come out of hose good then stick the cold water hose back on the washer and run it only on cold,if it doesn't fill then you know you have a problem with the water valve on the washer and it's not the house water valve that's bad,and usually if you have a problem with the washer water valve it will just hum and no water will enter the washer so if you hear a humming sound it will be the water valve.tried looking up the model number you sent but it doesn't come up on the parts lookup

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

How much soap did you use? During the final spin, your "final rinse" lets water into the tub to rinse out any remaining soap. Check to see how long it rinses for. If it is very briefly (a few seconds), there might be a problem with the timer or the electronic water inlet solenoid. The solenoid is what opens the valve to let the water in. Sometimes when they go bad, they won't let the valve stay open long enough to let enough water in.

Servicing Water Inlet ValvesIf the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced.

Check the cold water hose. My brand new machine had this behavior until I discovered a kink in the cold water hose - works great now.

door switch bad?

There could be several causes for this, but probably a bad timer. One test for this...when it stops...is to turn it off...and turn the timer slightly clockwise...to the middle of the rinse cycle...and turn it back on. Does it run then?? Try advancing it to the spin cycle after the rinse. If it runs okay after you manually advance the knob...the timer is probably defective.