The installer used the manual that comes with the pump. It was late when he finished, packed up his tools, and possibly the manual as well. I cannot find the manual, have scoured my house for all reasonable locations I would have placed it. I am trying to download a manual, have found pages alleging access to do that, but have not found a page to do that simple process. Please tell me how to download a manual.

Most often this is caused by a stuck check ball - turn the pump on, flip the bypass valve to prime, take a wooden or rubber mallet and strike the pump a few times near where the down tube threads on.
My recommendation would be to have a professional install a packing kit which includes the check balls - there are special insertion tools needed to install the packings, if not done properly the packings will get damaged.

Hello Jeff Bolton,

Yes possible... I vigorously recommend the purchase
of FACTORY GRADE workshop manuals... but that
is seldom feasible... (I keep my cars (forever))...

For 10 year old vehicles... It is still quite possible.

Chrysler Co. (Real SCAT PACK cars: New, quite cheap),
FoMoCo, Datsun 240Z & GM not unreasonable...
Jaguar, Porsche & BMW ... ($$$$) huge & costly:
Jaw dropping & cumbersome (dribbling w/specialty tools)

- (Austin Healey '66 BJ8... (forget about it)).
Better to go after the famous BMC repro. manuals
by Norman Nock (late) of STOCKTON, California.

FREE wiring ENGINE: FUEL Control drawing is available
on the BBB Industries website: Registration is required
(I only looked at the 5.3 engine in the 1500 Savana)...
Click here...
BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products

The site returns you to the Technical Service Bulletins
(TSBs) each time you return from looking circuit
drawings... but otherwise these are detailed OEM
drawings for popular USA market vehicles (foreign
and domestic)...

ALSO...
YES... it is possible to SPARK (utterly fry) your ECM
by sparking a lead at your FUEL PUMP off the output...
(not an inexpensive WORK ERROR (in my opinion))...
2007 GMC SAVANA 1500 5 3L V8 Engine Control Module ECM Computer RockAuto

Just remember to WEAR ANTI-STATIC WRIST bands
every-time you are working near any SEMICONDUCTOR
circuit-board you care about.

The slightest SPARK (you might not even feel)
can destroy your electronics circuits... SERIOUSLY.

Cheap & easy protection to protect against ESD
(electro-static discharge)... MUST be worn
Amazon com Rosewill ESD Anti Static Wrist Strap Components RTK 002 Black...

Hope this helps ...
A few more words on why you could want all these
drawings... Any issues you care to share...?
(else comment me back... (w/which Savana & engine))...

Carnac the Magnificent

If you buy a new power steering pump, it usually comes with a nut,bolt and washer to install the pulley. The removal tool can be purchased and possibly rented at any parte store

Hi there,

Has the tool been striped down and cleaned lately? And are you using genuine paslode gas? If not, do these two fixes first and try again.

If the advice so far doesn't solve the problem, you probably need to change the packings. Its easy to do yourself and the kit comes with instructions. While you have the pump apart, check that the piston is not worn or damaged. If it is worn and needs replacing you may see that the hard chrome has worn through to the steel, or there's a noticable ridge where the piston stops; if it is scored it will ruin the new packings. Be sure to install the packings with the lips facing in towards the pressure (top packings lips down, bottom lips up), and use the insertion tool that comes with the kit to push the piston through the top packings.

MANUAL BLEEDING

For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

In addition to a length of clear neoprene bleeder hose, bleeder wrenches and a clear bleeder bottle (old plastic jar or drink bottle will suffice), bleeding late-model ABS systems may also require the use of one or more relatively inexpensive combination valve pressure bleeding tools (which are used to depress one or more valves in order to allow component/system bleeding). To fully bleed the late model ABS systems, a scan tool should also be used to run the system through functional tests.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid. To prevent squirting fluid, and possibly damaging painted surfaces, install the cover during the procedure, but be sure to frequently check and top off the reservoirs with fresh fluid.

CAUTION Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the system.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Loosen the front brake line at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
2. Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly and hold (air and/or fluid should be expelled from the loose fitting). Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Loosen the fitting and repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder bore.
   
3. When finished, tighten the line fitting to 20 ft. lbs. (5 Nm).
   
4. Repeat the sequence at the master cylinder rear pipe fitting.

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir.
   

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. On late model ABS equipped vehicles, perform the special ABS procedures as described later in this section. On 4 wheel ABS systems the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) must be bled (if it has been replaced or if it is suspected to contain air) and on most Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) systems the combination valve must be held open. In both cases, special combination valve depressor tools should be used during bleeding and a scan tool must be used for ABS function tests.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
      
   2. Left rear
      
   3. Right front
      
   4. Left front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.

Be very careful when bleeding wheel cylinders and brake calipers. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it.

1. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   
2. Loosen the bleed screw, then have a friend apply the brake pedal slowly and hold. Tighten the bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second pause) until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   
3. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) when finished.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
   
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
   
3. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

GM Astro/Safari 1985-1996 Repair Guide
Power Steering Pump - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7)



Fig. 1: Exploded view of the power steering pump assembly mounting-2.5L engine



Fig. 2: Exploded view of the power steering pump assembly mounting-early-model 4.3L engine



Fig. 3: Removing the power steering pump pulley-1985-92 vehicles



Fig. 4: Installing the power steering pump pulley



Fig. 5: Pump pulley removal and installation-1993-96 vehicles



Fig. 6: Exploded view of the power steering pump mounting-late-model 4.3L engines (1993-96 shown)



Fig. 7: Typical power steering pump hose routing-1996 shown


The following procedure requires the use of the GM Puller tool No. J-29785-A (1985-92), Puller J-25034-B (1993-96) or equivalent, and the GM Pulley Installer tool No. J-25033-B or equivalent.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
2. For 1996 vehicles, remove the air cleaner assembly for access.
3. For 1993-96 vehicles, remove the hood latch and the upper fan shroud.
4. Release tension and remove the drive belt.
5. Remove the power steering pump pulley using a suitable puller tool.
6. Remove the power steering pump retaining bolts, then reposition the pump as necessary for access to the hoses.
7. Position a fluid catch pan under the power steering pump.
8. Remove the hoses from the power steering pump and drain the excess fluid into the catch pan.

WARNING Be sure to cap all openings in the pump hydraulic system to prevent excessive fluid spillage and the possibility of system contamination.

1. Remove the power steering pump from the vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Position the pump to the vehicle, then uncap and connect the pump hoses.
2. Install the steering pump to the retaining bracket, then secure using the retaining bolts. Tighten the power steering pump-to-bracket bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). For 1996 vehicles, tighten the nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
   

On early-model vehicles where the drive belt is tensioned by pivoting the power steering pump assembly, do NOT fully tighten the mounting bolts at this time, since you will just have to loosen them again for belt installation and adjustment.

1. Install the pump pulley using the GM Pulley Installer tool No. J-25033-B or equivalent. Press the drive pulley onto the power steering pump.
2. Hand-tighten the pivot bolt, the adjusting bolt and the washer.
3. Install the drive belt. On early-model vehicles so equipped, properly adjust the belt tension. For details on belt installation and tension adjustment.
4. For 1993-96 vehicles install the upper fan shroud and the hood latch assembly.
5. For 1996 vehicles, install the air cleaner assembly.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
7. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the power steering system.
8. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
9. Road test the vehicle, then check and top-off the power steering fluid.

hope this help (remember rated this post) Good luck.

1995-98 Vehicles
See Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10
On these vehicles, is possible to remove the fuel pump and/or gauge assembly by working through the access panel under the rear seat cushion instead of having to lower or remove the fuel tank.

1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined earlier in this section, but keep the rear seat cushion off and the connector(s) detached.
2. If not already done, remove the protector.
3. Disconnect the fuel pump hoses and connectors, then remove the fuel pump from the vehicle.

Fig. 7: The fuel pump is located under the rear seat cushion
To install:

1. For FWD vehicles, place the fuel pump in the vehicle, aligning the packing positioning projections with the holes in the fuel pump.

Fig. 8: When installing the fuel pump, make sure the projections are properly aligned with the holes in the pump assembly

1. For AWD vehicles, perform the following:
   1. Check to be sure the fuel tank packing is not damaged. If it is, it must be replaced.
   2. Place soapy water on the inside of the packing, then install the fuel pump assembly. Do NOT tilt the assembly during installation.
   3. Apply soapy water to the outside thread of the fuel tank. Use special tool MB994180 or an equivalent spanner wrench to tighten the cap to the specified torque. Make sure that the marks on the fuel tank and pump assembly are aligned.
   
   
2. For AWD vehicles, make sure the packing is installed properly, as shown in the accompanying figure.

Fig. 9: On AWD vehicles, you need a spanner wrench to tighten the fuel pump assembly cap

WARNING Make sure the pump assembly does not turn together with the cap when tightening the cap. If the mating marks are not aligned, the position of the flat will not be correct and the fuel gauge indicator light and gauge will not work properly.


Fig. 10: The fuel pump packing must be properly installed for sealing purposes

1. For AWD vehicles, check for leaks as follows:
   1. Apply soapy water to the circumference of the cap.
   2. Choke the vapor hose and main hose, apply and internal pressure of 1.5 psi (10 kPa) or less from the return hose and make sure no bubbles form in the soapy water.
   
   
2. Install the protector and attach the fuel pump electrical connector.
3. Install the rear seat cushion.
4. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).

Try rebooting the system.
If possible, use the BIOS to boot through the CD.
If that works, the Windows Vista Installation screen would come up, and then you would have the repair install option. IF not:

Before windows loads, press F8 and load the system on Safe Mode.
Then, try to load the windows setup CD and try the repair install option.
If none of that works, perhaps your windows defender is on, preventing the system from using protected files.
If that is the case, go to Control Panel > Windows Defender > Disable.
Don't forget to put it back on once finished.

i bassume the water is coming in after cycle finished. source can be two things.
water valve leaking - not probable on a new machine but to check, turn water off and see if water comes in.
if drain is plumbed into a spigot on the sink trap, when you empty the sink, some of the water will go down the drain hose. to cvure, take the drain hose up in a swan neck as high as possible