I installed Leviton 2591 switch (to replace a broken one). The switch is supposed to be "off" when untouched and "on" when held pressed down. My switch is behaving opposite. It is "on" when left alone and "off" when pressed. What am I doing wrong?

1) Copy following link to identify Leviton 6200 series 12 hour countdown timer and download manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html#6230

2) I think you have timer wired wrong:
Copy following link and read ez steps how to wire single-pole timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html

3) Add comment and describe what type switch you are replacing.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Several questions here.

1) Lights should not flicker and switch should not make sound (or get unusually warm)
2) You should not have to 'press hard' to get switch to turn off.
3) Are the switches defective. YES. Remove and replace with ordinary toggle switch and see if flickering and sound-making continue. If problems continue, maybe local electrician should assess problem on-site.
4) Press to Release. You are speaking about wires connected on back of switch using 'quick-connects.'
Wire is pushed into a hole where wire is wedged against brass spring and held tight.
To release wire there is usually a hole or slot next to wire. Push small screwdriver into opening. Usually you have to push screwdriver very hard using one hand while other hand holds switch. Then use your additional hand to pull out wire. Or you can clip wire off and then strip back insulation and start fresh on new switch.
5) Builder electricians sometimes buy super cheap brand knock-offs that are not UL rated. Do not think all Leviton products lack quality. Buy new switches at local home center, and new switches will work fine.
6) When replacing switches, pay attention to screw-color that sits next to quick connect. Take a photo before removing all wires.
Screw colors tell electrician how to wire a device, and you can post new question at fixya, or add a comment for specific help.

7) Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

8) Take a moment and rate answer:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on electrical switches or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

usually you use the black lead for live

The other switch should only be changing from one wire being hot when it is in the up position to a second wire being hot when it is in the down position. Then the new dimmer should be hot on one terminal when the other switch is up and on a different terminal when it is down.
I'm not sure how the Leviton dimmer works, though.
Gary

Sounds like that dimmer you ruined
You must turn off power when replacing
And test the wires

You posted under Leviton rotary dimmer.
Lutron and Leviton have many 3-way dimmer styles, and both make 3-way rotary dimmers.

I remember years ago replacing 3-way switches with dimmers and having same experience as you. One dimmer has to be ON for the other dimmer to dim.

Later I learned when you replace both 3-way switches with dimmers, you buy a control-and-companion dimmer set. One dimmer is main, and it lets you dim from both locations. The two dimmers communicate with each other electronically. Buy these dimmers at lighting store that specializes in fixtures and dimmers. Ask for most experienced salesperson.

I checked to see if rotary dimmers are made in the companion set. And neither Leviton or Lutron show 3-way companion set rotary dimmers.

1) Leviton spec sheet on rotary 3-way dimmers does not show companion dimmer. This indicates that Leviton rotary dimmers don't have capability of communicating with each other.

2) Lutron has image of 3-way rotary dimmers.
Image shows single rotary dimmer in 3-way & 4-way circuit.
This tells me that Lutron does not have companion dimmer for 3-way rotary dimmer.

There is nothing wrong with the switch or your wiring. The Leviton R01-PR180-1LI is not designed to work with flourescent lights. A lot of electronic controls will bleed through a small voltage when in the "OFF" state. It's just enough voltage to make the ballast in the flourescent light try to fire but not enough to let it fire the way it is supposed too.

What you need is a motion switch that is rated for flourescent lights, such as this :-( :
http://www.smarthome.com/2520W/Leviton-ODS10-IDW-Commercial-Grade-Wall-Mounted-Occupancy-Sensor-White/p.aspx

Switch has 2 black wires. One black is hot wire. One black is wire going to fan. Turn off power. Remove wires from switch and separate. Turn power back on. Using ordinary tester, test each black wire to bare copper ground wire. Only one of the black wires will test hot. The other black wire goes to fan.
Timer black wire connects to black hot
Timer blue wire connects to black wire going to fan
Timer white wire connects to white neutral (in absence of white neutral, connect Timer white wire to bare ground)
Timer green connects to bare ground wire

I recently purchased a Leviton Dimmer switch which has a brown lead. This switch is to replace 1 of 2, 3 way switches that control the ceiling light in my kitchen. My problem is the new dimmer switch has 4 leads including a brown one which has me confused. I have installed and replaced numerous dimmer switches without difficulty. Please help.

I Have a decora 24 hour lcd programmable timer switch 6124, when i set the timer it doesn't go on, but it goes one a 5:00 am. when there is nothing programed?

Apparently i need to set the time first and then program timer?

Can you please help. Thanks so much.