I have a dlg5932w dryer that will not heat. From reading posts, it sounds like I need to reset a safety thermostat switch. How do I find it so I can reset it.

I tired the reset on the over temp. Did not work. How do I check the igniter/ gas valve and thermostat?

you may have a defective gas valve. there are 2 coils; one for 1st stage ignition; and, then the other 2nd stage coil takes over. ohm out your coils. there is also a flame detector that is attached to the flame tube body; could be bad? or, the thermostats themselves may need to be replaced.. always replace both the main and the safety reset t-stats together...

I must assume the dryer does NOT heat.
** UNPLUG a dryer before attempting ANY repairs. Lethal!
Check this website before you start
A dryer heater is controlled by the timer, a thermostat and a high-heat safety switch. The thermostat and safety switch are mounted on the housing around the heater.
Most likely - If the heater is blown, a visual inspection inside the heater housing will see a loose heater wire. Just order the heater.
Next likely - Thermostat problems occur. I replace the thermostat and high-heat safety if either are suspect. Cheap, easy fix. A tech person with a ohmmeter can measure if the high-temp safety is open (it always reads shorted when it works) A thermostat also reads shorted if the heater is cold.
Least likely - Controller failure. This can be expensive ($80 - $400) so consider if you want to spend the money. A controller is actually fairly easy to change. Buy a new knob as you are likely to break it without experience and special tools.

The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

There is one Safety Thermostat which will not reset Once it blows it is bad and must be replaced. The Safety Thermostats function is to stop the heat when the unit is to hot because of inadequate ventilation from a clogged filter or vent. I usually find the Safety Thermostat on the back of the drum since it will not rotate once you open the back of the dryer. It should look similar to a Power Transistor shaped like a disk with two mounting holes where it is screwed to the drum and two lead wires attached to it. Make sure when you check the resistance of the Safety Thermostat one lead is removed to isolate it from the rest of the circuit. If it reads open (no continuity) it is bad and needs replaced.

On a gas dryer that will not heat, the first thing to check is the ignitor. The ignitor should heat up and glow orange if it is working. If not, the ignitor is defective. The next thing to check are the gas valve coils. These are electrical solenoids that are located just above the gas valves. When energized, they open the gas valves and allow the gas to flow to the burner and be ignited. If everything looks like it is operating well, but the dryer is still not heating/drying properly, the next thing that I would consider would be a faulty high limit thermostat. Sure hope this helped and best wishes.

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

it could be the thermostat it could be a burned heat element if electric verify gas or electric

This can obviously be several things, but I would first check the small safety thermostat. On the gas models, there is a small pin sticking out of it which can be pushed back in to reset it. It is located on the heater housing and is only about the size of a dime, with two wires on it. This will trip out easily if your vent was not clean, or is long or restricted in some ways (like using flex ducting)
If you need more help getting to it, let me know and I'll give you more instructions.

hi thanks for the question i would also check the thermal fuse when you purchase the hi limit thermostat also purchase the fuse a lot of dirt in venting will cause the thermal fuse to fail the appliance doc