Question about Whirlpool RCS3014 Electric Cooktop

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Lower right element gets warm but never heats up.How to inspect for a loose connection? Need a diagram & instruction to get to that element. I switched a good element to the lower right & it also got slightly warm. Thanks for your help.

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David Petry

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I'm giving you the installation guide in case you need it:
http://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/RCS3014RS/Installation%20Instruction_EN.pdf
Ther isn't a whole lot that can go wrong with these, you probably have a bad switch. Hopefully you have a false drawer or accsess to the bottom of it pull the knob off the switch in question, it nay have screws holding it in place from the top, if not, you'll have to get to the underside anyway, switch out the switch in question with one you know works. I beleive this will find your culprit.

Posted on Jun 18, 2011

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We have a JennAire model CP220W-C01 cooktop. We use the old coil type heating elements. There was a flash and smoke from the right front element. A repairperson replaced the connector, only to have it blow...


Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

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see this causes and proceed for fix it. God bless you
Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

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1 Answer

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This became one of those solve the mystery questions for me and I literally have been looking at it for about 3 hours now. trying to get something I can safely pass to you that will not damage your unit.

With the yellow wire on neutral currently it would be operating on 110V and have low heat. Placing the yellow wire on L1 (Left) should get 208V to the right side burners. Again.. take a look at the schematic / wiring diagram that is attached to your unit.

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It would seem you posted anew.

For some reason I could not locate related literature for a RCC3024LD01,although there are for LB01, LQ01 and a LT01. Most of the components inthese models could be checked with the use of a continuity tester(multitester VOM/DVM). The idea is to check for continuity of eachcomponent. If we are to assume that the heating element as a likelysuspect, it is a matter of checking if the coil is continuous, that isno break anywhere in between. The test prods of the continuity testerwould be applied to the two (2) terminals of the heating element andthe tester should deflect/display how much is the resistance. Normalreading shouold be pretty low while no deflection/reading indicates anopen coil and therefore would require replacement.

These additional documents may be of help to you:
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