LOWER ELEMENT IS NOT GETTING ANY VOLTAGE ON MODEL 65220RS

I should like to hope I have your answer.
If yours is like most U.S. model, it is called a 220 volt unit.
That is not really 220 volts, it is really 2 separate 110 volt units.
What that means is, there are actually 2 separate 110 volt hot wires to the water heater, usually one hot wire is black, and the other hot wire is red.
One is for the upper heating unit, one is for the lower heating unit. Perhaps your lower unit has blown the circuit breaker for that line.
I mean the circuit breaker in the main fuse box/circuit breaker box.
Did you test the lower wiring to see if the hot wire is hot?
If it is hot, be sure to test the ground wire, and also the wiring between the bottom and the top of the heater inside it.
God bless your efforts.

First check that all connections are good. turn off power and take off the cover plates pull out the wires connected with wire nuts and check that they are not loose remove any electrical tape covering the nuts and turn power back on. with a meter check that you have 220 at the connections. if all is good at the incoming service check the upper element if power passes it in parallel check the exiting connections.if good there check the bottom power if you have 220 there either your element is bad or the thermostat. check the element by turning off power again and check the element with a continuity tester. if the element is good then your thermostat is probably defective try turning it up higher and see if you get 220 out of it.

Replace control box.
Call Whirlpool
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Are there fuses or breakers ? I have had bad breakers before

The heating elements in most electric heaters for water are sequential. That means that both are not on at the same time in some cases. There are individual thermostats for each set of heating elements. So you should check the integrity of both the heating elements with a meter and the thermostats.

1) Test elements,and if elements are good, replace both thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

2) Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240Volts.
If this test shows 240V, then no more voltage testing is needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html#electric

3) Add comment Feb 2013 and say where you are so far

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Doesn't sound like its the dip tube, its a element problem, I would contact bw directly to see if heater is stil in warranty and they will send you new parts free.

The salesman at the hardware store should be able to confirm my answer.
Match up the voltage, wattage and thread size and you should be good.
My element burned out two years ago and aside from draining the water, the job only took a few minutes and I was back in service.
Gary

Remove upper and lower access panels
in upper access, use voltage tester to test voltage of on the uppermost terminals above the red reset button. should be ~220V between terminals (110 to ground)
If not: breaker off or bad,
If 220V proceed:
Test the two terminals immediately below this reset button should be 220V
If not: reset tripped or bad
If 220V present, proceed.
Turn off breaker to heater.

Use ohm meter or continuity tester.
test resistance across upper element terminals -should be 10 to15 ohms
check between each terminal and ground -should be open circuit .
If not replace element
Repeat for lower element.

test across lower element thermostat should be no resistance when stat turned up so it clicks on.
(To test that lower stat turns off, allow tank to heat up completely before conducting this test) Turn sta temp down so it clicks off then test across stat terminals -should be open circuit

The upper thermostat is a 3 way switch
The simplest way to test it is to turn the power back on turn the upper stat all the way up so it clicks on and use voltage tester across the UPPER element terminals, should be ~220V
Now turn the upper stat down so it clicks off- check upper element should be 0 V between upper element terminals -(Caution ! terminals will still be live 110V to ground)
The upper stat has now sent power to lower stat.
Turn lower stat up so it clicks on, check Voltage across lower element -should be ~220V turn lower stat down so clicks off, should be 0 V across lower element terminals.

NOTE If tank is completely cold the upper stat will not switch off and wont send power to lower stat.
If lower tank is cold lower stat may not click off even when turned down.
normal stat setting is 125 to 130
The hotter you you set the stat, the faster your tank corrodes.

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.