The Fan on my "Fresh

There is always the possibility that the main control board has failed in that unit. The unit generates very high voltage and negative charges that leave the grid to trap small particles. With that in mind the board can accumulate a static charge and be ruined. Can you run it? I would not. There are cases where units similar to yours have caused fires.

here are parts for your air purifier, including the motor and other parts you may need in the future.

AirPurifierRepair. - just click the link

hope that helps, good luck

bad capacitor in the control head..if you run it at full speed, you may be able to run it hardwired(but it becomes a safety issue) may need it replaced..

sounds like the bearings are going bad on the motor check and make sure the fan blades aren't rubbing anything at higher speeds sometime's they will flex

Fresh Air purifiers are noted for two weak points. The display circuit board and the main circuit board. Call (336) 499-2505 and they will help you work through the problem. They give away information.

replce the mtors as there is nothing in them to clean

Check all connections. Most likely, something is not firmly in place. Unplug the machine.
1) Make sure the plate is inserted into the grooves, top and bottom.
2) Make sure the contact "fingers" press firmly onto both sides of the plate.
3) Make sure the plug is inserted FIRMLY into the back (MOST COMMON PROBLEM).
4) Make sure the back screen is inserted firmly, and that the safety switch is depressed by it.
5) Make sure that the outlet is not on a line with heavy power users, like a furnace or refrigerator.

Yeah, I had this happen to one of mine, the motor bearing siezed. Even though mine had run out of warranty and I kludged a fix for it Oreck replaced it anyways after inspecting the unit.

Temporary kludges that worked: light machine oil on the motor bearing, flipping the motor over internally, turning the unit on its edge so that it rides on a 'fresh' part of the bearing, running the unit on 'high' while I was out of the house.

080204 FixUp EQ air blog remarks

To remove fan blade you need to obtain a thin strong probe, such as a Scratch Awl for wood, that will fit without binding, into the cruciform spaces around the plastic collar. Gently insert into space of plastic collar and lever against the spring metal retaining clamp; getting started may require a bit of force, so be careful to adjust and gauge your efforts. The process is to move clamp in small increments, one side then the other, up the collar until clamp is free to remove.

The collar will still be tight, so if you can form your hands into a gear puller form with your finger tips between the fan blades under to the solid portion of the fan ring, pushing thumbs against the Spindle and lifting in as quick a jerk as you can manage to get it moving. Once moving it should be removed easily enough.

The electric motors have two bearing surfaces, one front one back. Both need to be addressed.

I like Breakfree or similar that acts like minor solvent / major lubricator with good thermal properties. The solvent aspect helps clean out unwanted particles and/or old dried lube. The new lubrication is heavy enough to hold up for at least a year; so yearly checking should be scheduled.

On other brands with heavier motors, I've tried greases when I've stripped down the motors even further. So far I've discovered a heavier lube can be hard on start up and need more time at slower speeds until unit warms up.

Something like WD40 is good for penetration and flushing, but IMO too light for sustained duty. There is a lot of spinning and heat over a year's time.

I just torn down a couple of F1's. They've been doing well for a couple of years. But with all air filters/ purifiers, they REQUIRE periodic maintenance. [Had my biggest laugh reading complaints about Oreck air filters; people NEVER cleaned them and complained when they failed.]
Yes, all these small electrical motors will eventually need lubrication, I recommend before 2 years, as one of mine had a frozen (lack of lube) motor in that time.

If you get into the back to try to get at the rear bearing, you may find that you might be considering a more thorough cleaning (I noticed a bit of corrosion). If you do and if that means taking more stuff apart to clean, be well advised of the time involved and the number of wires needing displacement, especially the electronic wire connectors at the front to the circuit board.
So, get a digital camera and take clear pictures (and check them!) Before and During take apart as well as a couple of paper notes about wire runs and placement. I have even used paint pens to letter/number info to the unit.

Whenever you clean or replace the plate, you must also clean the contacts that touch the plate, and all supports for the contacts. Clean them with 70% or higher isopropyl alcohol and Q tips. You should also clean the ionization point with a Q tip and alcohol, remove and clean the fan and oil the fan motor front and rear with a drop or two of sewing machine oil. Replace the fan so that it is flush with the end of the shaft. Make sure that the contacts are firmly against the ozone plate when you replace it. They sometimes barely make contact and then don't work well. You can bend them enough to make them fit firmly.