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Posted by Anonymous on
AMERICAN VALVE 1/2-in Dual Pattern Brass Sillcock Valve M72AS...
Do NOT purchase this product... Mine lasted about four years for me before the internal stem/rod cracked. This caused a constant leak when it was turned on. Doing research for parts... I've noticed a lot of reviews on the internet about this same problem as to it leaking through the handle. I thought it was a gasket problem but after analyzing it, it turned out to be the "Integral Vacuum Breaker" system malfunctioning after a few years of use. The tip of the stem is a moveable item loaded on a spring and if it gets stuck closed, the water in the stem/rod does not drain out causing water to stay in the center stem/rod and of course freezing during the winter. When Spring comes and you turn on the system, that's when it leaks in and around the handle.
Another important note: I could NOT find replacement parts i.e. center stem/rod therefore causing me to buy another new Freeze-Proof Sillcock. It doesn't stop here yet....The newer ones are mostly made of aluminum and the center stem/rod is all aluminum...NOT copper!!! This part being all aluminum which I believe will be a major problem to come!!! As you know aluminum creates lots of oxidation with layers of white aluminum powder. This will now be going through your hoses that might feed your garden/food, your pets water bowls outside and your pools!! This is not good. They need to keep this stuff copper or CPVC but NOT ALUMINUM.Look up "Aluminum poisoning"
I have pictures of this (center stem/rod) and how I fixed the old copper center stem/rod for a back up when my aluminum one I just bought from Lowes fails in a few years. I tested it and it works (my old copper stem/rod)!!! I fixed mine by removing the spring in the tip and putting the tip back in the stem and filling the center of the stem/rod with Liquid Nails adhesive. If I was to do it again, I would use a Rubber Silicon via a tube gun.
My suggestion is to go to the old type of Frost-Free Sillcock "BRASS" NOT ALUMINIUM and doesn't have a hollow center stem/rod for water to freeze in and also doesn't have the anti-Siphon design. It might be a neat design but when the parts start to oxidize/rust etc. it then will stick and keep the water from being aloud to leave the stem/rod therefore causing a crack and WILL leak when opened during the Spring.
Posted on Sep 05, 2014
SOURCE: my water supply valve for
The valve may have junk in it preventing it from shutting all the way off. Gently tap the valve a few times with a hammer and see if this clears it. IF not go to this site for other ideas http://www.ehow.com/video_117350_stop-toilet-running.html
Posted on Aug 09, 2010
Hello. W/D here....
I'll have to be general in this info as I don't know your specific valve, but I have worked on many diverter valves.
Either the packing gland on your valve is too tight, or you have a damaged diverter valve.
1. Make sure water won't come out in the tub or shower when your water is turned off; that is, that your water valves don't leak. If they do, you'll have to shut off the water.
2. Gain access to the valve body/diverter valve: Remove the plastic cap on the knob, remove the screw then remove the knob. The metal tube will unscrew from the valve body.
3. It gets a bit tricky here, so bear with me... Looking down the valve stem, there are two nuts surrounding the valve stem. The one closest to you is the packing gland nut. The inner one is the valve cartridge nut. The tricky part is that the nuts are difficult to get at. Turning (loosening) on the outer nut will make the valve easier to operate, and more likely to leak. A general rule for packing glands is that they should be just tight enough not to leak, plus 1/4 turn.
You can buy a set of thin wall sockets at Lowe's or similar, and they are handy. But....you may be able to slip a deep well socket onto the nut and turn it. This will save you ~$15, if it works... Unless you are familiar with adjusting packing glands, it will be easier to just replace the entire valve. Get a socket that will fit the valve body. Place the socket on the valve; the stem will have to pass through the square socket drive hole. You will have to use a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench (or similar) on the socket to remove the valve cartridge. When you have the valve out, look inside the valve with a flashlight and you'll see the valve seat. It will have a square or hexagonal hole in it. Check with your finger for nicks. If it is damaged, remove it. The valve seat wrench is available at a hardware store reasonably, ~$10. Pull the valve out and take it with you to the hardware store. Reinstallation is the reverse of the removal with two exceptions: make sure that the valve stem is "open", and make sure that the packing gland is snug, but not too tight. The easiest way to adjust it is to put the handle on the valve and to operate the valve in your hand. Tighten the gland to snug and operate the valve. Make adjustments in this manner until the valve is still easy to operate, but is getting harder to operate as you tighten it...you'll get the feel for it. Once you're satisfied for the most part, install the valve. Usually there is a plastic gasket or "O" ring that will need to go on the threads. Install according to the instructions included. Once the valve cartridge is installed, operate the valve a few times. Complete the reassembly.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
There are some products out there that will fix the body but most claim they are 'temporary' repair products for use until a new piece can be installed. Your experience may differ so you could at least try it. For most of the pools we have used epoxy on it is only good for a season or two in Michigan before the freeze/thaw cycle does in the repair.
Your local pool store or home center will have these products; you just need to know what the valve was made of (usually sch 80 pvc).
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
On the top of each handle you will need a very small flat head screwdriver or something similar to "pop" the top cap off. Under that cap there is a phillips head screw so you can remove the handle.
Posted on Jan 12, 2011
you can change out the complete air control valve. One thing i would have you do before changing that out is to make sure all of the jet faces are turned on. to do this turn the face of the jet clockwise. this will let the maximum amount of water come out of each jet face.
Sometimes if there are adjustable jets in the tub and they all get shut off, it will force the water that should be coming out of the jet faces back through the system and out the air control knob if it is open.
Just to check. that may not be the case....but...that would be cool if it were.
Posted on Jan 25, 2011
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