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I have an American Valve M72AS Frost Proof Sillcock that is leaking around the stem when turned on. I replaced the packing under the handle with no fix. Is there another packing/seal deeper inside? How do I get to it? The joint is behind drywall and not visible. The manufacturer sent me instructions on how to install a new valve.

Posted by Anonymous on

  • peasterday40
    peasterday40 Jul 04, 2012

    hello..Ive got the same problem...I think.... my valve leaks at a hole in the stem of the valve when I turn it on...some water still comes out the spout ..but most of it comes out the stem...I did notice that when I turned the faucet on...leaf debris came out...im suspecting ...critters have tried to nest in the spigot...so...I suggest that you remove the stem as I am going to..(after turning off the water)...once youve got it out...if you have someone to help..hold a mesh cooking strainer over the neck of the body of the faucet...have them turn on the water...see what debris/parts come out..Im going to try this...let it flush...then have them turn the water off again...inspect the strainer for parts...if none are found...inspect the stem for damage..Im hoping that this will solve the problem for both of us...Im suspecting that there is damage to the internal parts of the stem...due to overtightening...thanks
    phillip

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scotty560

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  • 8 Answers

AMERICAN VALVE 1/2-in Dual Pattern Brass Sillcock Valve M72AS...

Do NOT purchase this product... Mine lasted about four years for me before the internal stem/rod cracked. This caused a constant leak when it was turned on. Doing research for parts... I've noticed a lot of reviews on the internet about this same problem as to it leaking through the handle. I thought it was a gasket problem but after analyzing it, it turned out to be the "Integral Vacuum Breaker" system malfunctioning after a few years of use. The tip of the stem is a moveable item loaded on a spring and if it gets stuck closed, the water in the stem/rod does not drain out causing water to stay in the center stem/rod and of course freezing during the winter. When Spring comes and you turn on the system, that's when it leaks in and around the handle.
Another important note: I could NOT find replacement parts i.e. center stem/rod therefore causing me to buy another new Freeze-Proof Sillcock. It doesn't stop here yet....The newer ones are mostly made of aluminum and the center stem/rod is all aluminum...NOT copper!!! This part being all aluminum which I believe will be a major problem to come!!! As you know aluminum creates lots of oxidation with layers of white aluminum powder. This will now be going through your hoses that might feed your garden/food, your pets water bowls outside and your pools!! This is not good. They need to keep this stuff copper or CPVC but NOT ALUMINUM.Look up "Aluminum poisoning"
I have pictures of this (center stem/rod) and how I fixed the old copper center stem/rod for a back up when my aluminum one I just bought from Lowes fails in a few years. I tested it and it works (my old copper stem/rod)!!! I fixed mine by removing the spring in the tip and putting the tip back in the stem and filling the center of the stem/rod with Liquid Nails adhesive. If I was to do it again, I would use a Rubber Silicon via a tube gun.
My suggestion is to go to the old type of Frost-Free Sillcock "BRASS" NOT ALUMINIUM and doesn't have a hollow center stem/rod for water to freeze in and also doesn't have the anti-Siphon design. It might be a neat design but when the parts start to oxidize/rust etc. it then will stick and keep the water from being aloud to leave the stem/rod therefore causing a crack and WILL leak when opened during the Spring.

Posted on Sep 05, 2014

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Joe Hogan

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SOURCE: my water supply valve for

The valve may have junk in it preventing it from shutting all the way off. Gently tap the valve a few times with a hammer and see if this clears it. IF not go to this site for other ideas http://www.ehow.com/video_117350_stop-toilet-running.html

J.

Posted on Aug 09, 2010

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woobie dog

woobie dog

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SOURCE: diverter valve does turn to redirect the water

Hello. W/D here....
I'll have to be general in this info as I don't know your specific valve, but I have worked on many diverter valves.
Either the packing gland on your valve is too tight, or you have a damaged diverter valve.
1. Make sure water won't come out in the tub or shower when your water is turned off; that is, that your water valves don't leak. If they do, you'll have to shut off the water.
2. Gain access to the valve body/diverter valve: Remove the plastic cap on the knob, remove the screw then remove the knob. The metal tube will unscrew from the valve body.
3. It gets a bit tricky here, so bear with me... Looking down the valve stem, there are two nuts surrounding the valve stem. The one closest to you is the packing gland nut. The inner one is the valve cartridge nut. The tricky part is that the nuts are difficult to get at. Turning (loosening) on the outer nut will make the valve easier to operate, and more likely to leak. A general rule for packing glands is that they should be just tight enough not to leak, plus 1/4 turn.
You can buy a set of thin wall sockets at Lowe's or similar, and they are handy. But....you may be able to slip a deep well socket onto the nut and turn it. This will save you ~$15, if it works... Unless you are familiar with adjusting packing glands, it will be easier to just replace the entire valve. Get a socket that will fit the valve body. Place the socket on the valve; the stem will have to pass through the square socket drive hole. You will have to use a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench (or similar) on the socket to remove the valve cartridge. When you have the valve out, look inside the valve with a flashlight and you'll see the valve seat. It will have a square or hexagonal hole in it. Check with your finger for nicks. If it is damaged, remove it. The valve seat wrench is available at a hardware store reasonably, ~$10. Pull the valve out and take it with you to the hardware store. Reinstallation is the reverse of the removal with two exceptions: make sure that the valve stem is "open", and make sure that the packing gland is snug, but not too tight. The easiest way to adjust it is to put the handle on the valve and to operate the valve in your hand. Tighten the gland to snug and operate the valve. Make adjustments in this manner until the valve is still easy to operate, but is getting harder to operate as you tighten it...you'll get the feel for it. Once you're satisfied for the most part, install the valve. Usually there is a plastic gasket or "O" ring that will need to go on the threads. Install according to the instructions included. Once the valve cartridge is installed, operate the valve a few times. Complete the reassembly.
Regards, --W/D--

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers

SOURCE: Cracked lower casing of Jandy valve leaking some

There are some products out there that will fix the body but most claim they are 'temporary' repair products for use until a new piece can be installed. Your experience may differ so you could at least try it. For most of the pools we have used epoxy on it is only good for a season or two in Michigan before the freeze/thaw cycle does in the repair.

Your local pool store or home center will have these products; you just need to know what the valve was made of (usually sch 80 pvc).

Posted on Dec 18, 2009

uspartscente

US Parts Center

  • 719 Answers

SOURCE: How do you remove Jacuzzi Waterfall handles to get

On the top of each handle you will need a very small flat head screwdriver or something similar to "pop" the top cap off. Under that cap there is a phillips head screw so you can remove the handle.

Posted on Jan 12, 2011

uspartscente

US Parts Center

  • 719 Answers

SOURCE: One of the "Air Volume Control" valves shoots

you can change out the complete air control valve. One thing i would have you do before changing that out is to make sure all of the jet faces are turned on. to do this turn the face of the jet clockwise. this will let the maximum amount of water come out of each jet face.
Sometimes if there are adjustable jets in the tub and they all get shut off, it will force the water that should be coming out of the jet faces back through the system and out the air control knob if it is open.
Just to check. that may not be the case....but...that would be cool if it were.

Posted on Jan 25, 2011

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Water will not come out of m72as till turned off then back on comes out then after 10 second delay


WASHER LOOSE. SHUT OFF SUPPLY LINE TO SILCOCK. REMOVE HANDLE, LOSEN PACKING AND BONET NUTS, REMOVE LONG SPINDLE. TURN ON SUPPLY AND CK FOR FULL FLOW TO DETERMIN SUPPLY VALVE IS WORKING. TIGHTEN BIB SCREW AND WASHER REINSTALL. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN PACKING NUT IF IT DRIPS JUST SNUG IT WHAN VALVE IS OPEN TILL IT STOPS WEEPING.

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follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
f a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets . If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals.
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers .
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat .
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type .
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings .
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals .
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head

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make this steps and fix it. God bless you
f a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets . If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals .
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers .
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat .
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type.
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings .
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes .
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head

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1 Answer

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make this steps and fix it. God bless you
f a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets . If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head

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follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
If a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets .
If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals .
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers .
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat .
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type .
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings .
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals .
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes .
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator .
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head .
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Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
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Ie there a seperate nut on the stem other than the one that holds the stem in place in the valve body. If there is then this is called a packing nut and there will be a gasket underneath it to seal down around the stem to stopit from leaking, You can try to tighten this nut down a little to see if it helps. Be careful to not force it as you can strip the threads out or break the nut.
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