OUR DRYER MYSTERIOUSLY QUIT WORKING THIS MORNING. WE'VE TRIED ALL CYCLES, AND NOTHING WORKS. TIMER STILL TICKS WHEN START BUTTON IS PUSHED. IT WORKED FINE UP UNTIL THIS POINT. I'VE CHECKED THE RECEPTACLE AND THE BREAKER, ALL OF WHICH ARE FINE.
Just want to post the solution. After completely disassembled the
dryer down to the motor, I did all component tests as instructed from
the service manual and all passed. I narrow down to the motor and gave
it a straight 110V external source and it did run ok. So, I checked
the hardness terminal at the motor to see if it give the motor the
power and it does not. I pulled out the terminal wire (brown) and
plugged it back making sure that it has good contact and voila... the
motor run as normal.
So the problem is: electrical wire contacts getting loose due to long time motor vibration.
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II Dryers are fitted with a mechanical timer that sends an impulse to
the control circuit board to stop running once the set amount of drying
time has elapsed. This is because, should an electronic timer fail, this
would necessitate the replacement of the entire circuit board. Confirm
that the mechanical timer is indeed broken by opening the dryer's door.
If the dryer stops, the circuit board is working fine and is not the
problem. Simply slide off the protective faceplate of the dryer, unscrew
the control board beneath, and flip it over. Connected to the back of
the timer's knob should be a small round device with two wires running
to the circuit board within the body of the dryer. Unscrew this device
from the back of the knob and disconnect the wires. A replacement timer
costs a few dollars and should screw into place without trouble.
Reconnect the wires and put the dryer back together. It should work fine
If you need a new timer the best place ti get it is from Rough River Appliance Repair
Phone number is (270) 230-1818 his name is Charlie and he is the best!
Sound`s like a broken drum belt. When the belt break`s on most kenmore/whirlpool dryer`s it prevent`s the unit from starting via a ``kill switch`` located under or next to the belt tensioner/idler pulley.
Since you`ve indicated the timer appear`s to advance/work, it is not the thermal fuse/cut-out.
The other possible fault is in the start button, but that is not very common.
I`d look at the belt. That`s what I`d check first. Hope that help`s.
You've got an open circuit somewhere in the loop betwixt the start button, the "safety" button actuated by the door, and the motor/heat coils. Trace out those circuits and you'll have that thing running in no time.
Maybe. Will the unit restart in the same position or do you have to move it? If it will work in the same position and all you're doing is waiting for a bit of cooldown...it could be a defective high limit switch that is resetting. If it will restart only after you move the timer, then change out the timer. This is a bit of a mystery since timers generally don't have 'dead spots'...they are designed differently than that.