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Blown crossover I pulled that crossover out and one of the resistors (?) is halfway disconnected from the circuit board with one end blown off. The rubber housing of this component is partially melted away.

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Sounds like the crossover is smoked. Unusual, but it happens. Just call a Peavey service center for the part number and you should be able to order direct from Peavey. If you have problems getting the number, let me know and I'll try and get it for you.

Dan

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

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My LG TV 50PS60-UA stopped powering on. I opened the back and after disconnecting the cable from the power supply board to the main board, it powered on. It even powers on when the cable is halfway...


Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary. /

Mar 04, 2018 | LG Televison & Video

1 Answer

Get my mute button to work


You must take apart the two halves of the remote .
Remove the rubber buttons bad (It usually is one piece)

Get a bottle of 99% iso alcohol at any pharmacy and let the whole rubber pad soak for 2 mins.

While it is soaking, take the end of a rubber pencil, and use it to clean the pc board by rubbing in circles on the printed resistor ink pads individually.

Remove the rubber button pad from the alcohol and dry well.

Take the pencil eraser and rub each individual black resistor ink with it.
Then dip a Q tip in the alcohol and do ALL of the resistor ink on both the pc board and the rubber pad.

Re assemble and there you have it!

Usually when you open the remote and pull the rubber all in one button key pad out, it will be sticky, so clean the button holes on the top piece of the remote (The Insides Individually) or the problem will continue.
The rubber keys will eventually return to rubber and the small black resistor ink on the opposite side will also wear in time.

I have seen this in the shop now for almost 30 years, and it is 95% the same every time!

I hope this will help!

Jan 01, 2015 | DISH Network Televison & Video

1 Answer

How do I change a blower motor in a chrysler Town and country


Hello, to change the blower motor resistor follow this steps:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Open the glove box.
  3. Flex both sides of the glove box bin inward near the top far enough for the rubber glove box stop bumpers to clear the sides of the glove box opening, then roll the glove box downward.
  4. Reach through the glove box opening to access and disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector for the blower motor resistor from the resistor connector receptacle.Blower motor Resistor
  5. Reach through the glove box opening to access and disconnect the blower motor pigtail wire connector from the resistor connector receptacle.
  6. Remove the two screws that secure the blower motor resistor to the evaporator housing.
  7. Remove the blower motor resistor from the evaporator housing.

Thanks

Aug 25, 2010 | 2006 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

I own a impala 2003 and i would like to know how to change the thermostat on it.The motor is a 3.4 liters


Drain radiator. Remove upper rad hose from thermostat housing. Disconnect air intake hose from throttle body. Remove throttle body from upper intake manifold, disconnecting the 2 rubber hoses to the heater line. You may also need to disconnect the fuel line. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield and loosen the crossover pipe from both exhaust manifolds but don't remove crossover completely. You should have access to the 2 thermostat housing bolts, remove upper bolt but just loosen the lower one about a half inch. Pull the housing out and up from the intake manifold to access the thermostat. Clean the mating surfaces with a gasket remover. replace thermostat, apply a light coating of rtv sealant to both sides of the new gasket. Replace thermostat housing with the gasket to the intake manifold. Apply some rtv to the bolt threads before reattaching housing. Tighten bolts snugly but do not over tighten. Tighten exhaust crossover and reattach the heat shield. Install throttle body attaching the 2 little hoses at the bottom, its a good time to replace these hoses and clamps. Depending on the condition of the throttle body gasket you may need to replace it also. Reconnect the fuel line (if disconnected) Reconnect air intake hose to throttle body. Reattach the upper rad hose to housing. Fill rad with coolant 50/50 mix with water (make sure to use the same type antifreeze that is in the system, they say you can mix green with red but I wouldn't recommend) Leave rad cap off start the car and let it warm up until you can see the coolant circulating and ad coolant as necessary until full. Now there is going to be some air in the system that you need to bleed out. There are 2 bleeders on this system, 1 is on the top of the thermostat housing, and the other is on the metal heater line on top of the water pump (the one that goes across the front of the engine and around under the throttle body that the two little hoses attach to) Bleed the one on the housing first (its the lower one) open it until fluid comes out then tighten it. Then move to the 1 on the heater line(above water pump) loosen it until fluid comes out the re-tighten. Fill recovery tank to fill line replace the rad cap and take it for a ride, watching the temp gage closely. If the temp goes higher than normal than there is probably more air in the system. you'll have to bleed it again.
This is a very labor intensive procedure and I do recommend buying or checking a service manual out from your local library. I've done these in the past and to be honest I just have the dealer do it now. A system flush and thermostat replacement was around $230 the last time I had it done, but it comes with a warranty. And you wont have to rent or buy a fuel line disconnect tool if you end up having to disconnect it. These are the hardest thermostats I've ever replaced.

Jun 09, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Has anybody ever replaced an entire crossover assembly (circuit board) in a Alesis Monitor One? Specifically, does the woofer need to come out, and if so, how?


Look here:

http://www.instrumentalparts.com/crossover-pcb-board-for-alesis-monitor-one--mk-1-and-m.html

and here: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-15436568105612_2091_46855693

See that 8.2 mfd bi-polar and one of those white ceramic cased resistors???. Those parts feed your tweeter... One of them is bad. You can buy the board for $30 or spend a couple bucks for those parts.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-NPAL100V47-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22WuTsnx9Abs03070dCRY8QE%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-NPAL100V33-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UhSjrTM10DE0iKGiddcDi0%3d

Put one each of the above two capacitors in parallel to make 8 mfd to replace the 8.2 mfd and it will work fine. They only cost 74 cents each. You can find the resistors as well from Mouser.com.

IF YOUR crossover is potted in a hard material, that probablly destroyed the caps. The caps would have to be encased in a foam before hard potting as the shrinkage of the potting material would crush the caps a bit and cause failure.

Feb 02, 2010 | Music

1 Answer

Blown heater core in a 1977 ford f-150 pick-up


1976-79 Without Air Conditioning
  1. Disconnect the temperature and function control Bowden cables from the heater housing. This must be done to prevent damage to the cables.
  2. Disconnect the wires from the blower resistor.
  3. Remove five screws attaching the air inlet (vent) duct to the heater housing.
  4. Disconnect the blower wires.
  5. Drain the radiator and remove the heater hoses from the heater core.
  6. Remove three heater stud retaining nuts and remove heater.
  7. Remove gasket between the heater hose ends and the dash panel at core tubes.
  8. Remove heater core cover and gasket (four screws).
  9. Pull heater core and lower support from heater.

To install:
  1. Install foam gaskets on heater core and install in heater assembly.
  2. Install the core seal and cover plate.
  3. Position heater assembly in vehicle and install three stud retaining nuts.
  4. Connect heater hoses to heater core and fill radiator.
  5. Connect blower motor wires.
  6. Place defroster nozzle on heater so that the defroster and heater openings are in the up position, and there is no air leak around the seal.
  7. Install air inlet (vent) duct to heater. Push duct firmly against seal on side cowl and tighten five attaching screws.
  8. Connect wires to blower motor resistor.
  9. Connect temperature and function control cables to heater, and adjust the cables.
  10. Reinstall gasket between the heater hose ends and the dash panel at core ends.
  11. Fill Cooling System.

  12. Hope this helps you! Please remember to rate my solution.

    Lefty64

Apr 09, 2009 | 1986 Ford F150 SuperCab

2 Answers

Clock on my 2002 Subaru Forester does not work any more


This is a very easy fix! If your clock is above the rear view mirror, pop off the front of the housing with your favorite pocket driver, undo a couple of mounting screws, and unplug the clock. Reinstall new clock in reverse order. If your clock is on top of the dash, it just takes a little more elbow grease (push the housing towards the front of the car and then up) to get the housing off. Then, it's the same procedure as I described before. Good luck!

Dec 25, 2008 | 1998 Subaru Forester

6 Answers

Frigidaire electrolux gallery series


stoveboy,

I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.

I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N

Apr 14, 2008 | Maytag MGR5875QD CleanDesign Gas Kitchen...

3 Answers

Need diagrams for a Vivitar 285HV Flash


I had the same problem on a new 285HV flash. I pulled it apart and found a blown resistor and track in the head of the flash.
The flash was fairly easy to pull apart, there is a clip hiding behind the blue disk, the rest is just screws.
There are 3 circuit boards, two in the base and one in the head.
The blown resister is in the head and is the large resister next to the violet wire. From the edge of the board there is R22 brown-black-brown, two diodes, another resistor yellow-violet-brown and then the one that died.
I have the service manual for the flash and it is titled 285/285HV but the circuit board in the service manual and in the flash are different.
After much studying of the circuit diagram I believe the value of the resister is 12K 2watt (90% sure, if not it is 10K 2watt).
I replaced the resistor with the 12K and was able to use the extra length of the leg of the resistor to bypass the blown track, used some heat shrink to insulate the leg from shorting out with the board.
I have tested the flash and it is working but I have not used it extensively.

Disclaimer: this board is right next to the capacitor, you don't want to touch it if it has a charge. Use a multimeter to check.

I bought the resistor from here: www.digikey.com Part No. P12KW-2BK-ND $0.206 (min order 5 still only a $1.03)

Good luck and remember I am not an electronics tech and your problem may be different to mine.

Richard

Jan 07, 2008 | Vivitar 285HV Flash

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