This machine over heats after cycle ,water keeps boiling in the booster tank,have to unplug machine in order to stop from overheating ,when you turn the machine off it will continue to boil until you unplug the machine , water shoots out the washer arms,
Service man has replaced both computer boards and the problem still exists
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There are one or two hi-limit relays on the booster. One is on the front and if there is a second one, it is on the right hand side as you face the front of the unit. They are both manully have to be reset if tripped. Check them and also the booster's contacter
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I have received the hot water boiler, but it does not stop boiling the water. Instead of going to "Keep Warm", the machine continues to boil the water indefinitely. We left the boiler on and came back after 2 hours, and it didn't stop heating the water. Therefore, I refilled the boiled, turned off the machine, unplugged it, plugged it back in, and then turned it back on. The water continues to boil without going to "Keep Warm". I require a solution to the issue or a replacement as soon as possible.
As per my personal opinion this is normal because for the final rinse you have a small booster or boiler..
When you turn on the machine..it starts fill and also the booster for the final rinse.
You start the machine..wash cycle...rinse cycle..
Now..new water(from rinse booster) is coming on the tank in order to rinse the dishes..on the same time the machine drains the excces water from the rinse(over flowing) and fills up the booster with new water.
Should be like this
Most of the Hobart LX series of dishwashers have their own built-in booster heaters. To check for one, remove the lower front panel (2 screws). The booster heater, if present, will be a stainless steel tank on the left side. If it doesn't have a built in booster heater then it was meant to be used with chemical sanitizer instead.
All Hobart dishwashers will have a wash tank heating element, but the rinse water is not heated by the dishwasher, unless it has a built-in booster heater. Usually a separate booster heater is used to heat rinse water to 180-190 deg. F for hot water sanitation.
the thermostat could be faulty or out of adjustment. To adjust it (on my 8572) unplug it, remove the top, there is a box (black on mine) with four wires and a copper tube which goes into the tank (temperature sensor) which has a half enclosed tube sticking out of it with a small screw inside. Remove the small rubber hose from the top of the tank and place a thermometer into the tank through the hole. Turn the sdjusting screw counter-clockwise until it stops (check the +/- signs to be sure) and plug it back in to see if it will shut off before boiling...***MAKE SURE NO WIRES ARE SHORTED BY THE THERMOMETER AND DO NOT REACH INTO UNIT WHILE IT IS PLUGGED IN DUE TO SHOCK/FIRE HAZZARD*** if it stops heating before boiling, turn the adjusting screw clockwise a bit at a time until it shuts off at 205 degrees faranheit and reassemble the unit. If not replace the thermostat.
E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.