0 volts on pin 9 of the flyback

B1353 Ignition Key-In Circuit Open GEM Go to Pinpoint Test B .
PINPOINT TEST B: THE KEY-IN-IGNITION CHIME DOES NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY
Do you know what the GEM - genaric electronic control is ?
You need a scan tool to check ignition switch position .Don't know if this would cause a no start . Have you check for ignition spark and fuel pressure ? Are there anyother problems with power door locks or windows or lighting ? Thing's the GEM controls ?
CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS B1 CHECK IGNITION STATES
NGS
Monitor the GEM PIDS IGN_KEY, IGN_A, IGN_S, and IGN_R while cycling the ignition switch through the OFF, ACC, RUN, START and key out positions.

• Do the PID values agree with the ignition switch states?

Yes GO to B2 .

No GO to B4 . B2 CHECK GEM INTERNAL TONE OPERATION Trigger the GEM Active Command CHIME ON and OFF.

• Does the chime operate correctly?

Yes GO to B3 .

No INSTALL a new GEM. For additional information, REFER to Section 419-10 . REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs. B3 CHECK GEM INPUT FROM DOOR AJAR CIRCUIT Monitor the GEM PID D_DR_SW, while opening and closing the driver door.

• Do the GEM PID D_DR_SW values indicate CLOSED and AJAR correctly?

Yes INSTALL a new GEM. For additional information, REFER to Section 419-10 . REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs.

No GO to Pinpoint Test D . B4 CHECK GEM INPUT VOLTAGE FROM IGNITION SWITCH AT CJB FUSE 28 (15A)
CJB Fuse 28 (15A)
Measure the voltage between CJB Fuse 28 (15A), Pin 1, harness side and ground while cycling the ignition switch through all positions.

• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts in the RUN and START positions only?

Yes GO to B5 .

No REPAIR the CJB. REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs. B5 CHECK GEM INPUT VOLTAGE FROM IGNITION SWITCH AT CJB FUSE 32 (15A)
CJB Fuse 32 (15A)
Measure the voltage between CJB Fuse 32 (15A), Pin 1, harness side and ground while cycling the ignition switch through all positions.

• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts in the RUN and ACC positions only?

Yes GO to B6 .

No REPAIR the CJB. REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs. B6 CHECK GEM VOLTAGE INPUT CIRCUITS FOR OPEN - IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT 911 (WH/LG)
CJB Fuse 28 (15A)

GEM C352
Insert ignition key. Measure the resistance between GEM C352 Pin 8, Circuit 911 (WH/LG), harness side and CJB Fuse 28 (15A) Pin 2, Circuit 911 (WH/LG), harness side.

• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes GO to B7 .

No REPAIR Circuit 911 (WH/LG). REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs. B7 CHECK GEM VOLTAGE INPUT CIRCUITS FOR OPEN - IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT 1002 (BK/PK) Measure the resistance between GEM C352 Pin 22, Circuit 1002 (BK/PK), harness side and CJB Fuse 32 (15A), Pin 2, Circuit 1002 (BK/PK), harness side.

• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes GO to B8 .

No REPAIR Circuit 1002 (BK/PK). REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs. B8 CHECK GEM INPUT CIRCUIT FOR OPEN - KEY-IN-IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT 158 (BK/PK) Measure the resistance between GEM C352 Pin 9, Circuit 158 (BK/PK), harness side and ground.

• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes GO to B9 .

No REPAIR Circuit 158 (BK/PK) and key-in-ignition switch for failure. For additional information, REFER to Switch-Key-In-Ignition Warning . REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs. B9 CHECK GEM VOLTAGE INPUT CIRCUITS FOR SHORT TO POWER - IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUITS 911 (WH/LG), AND 1002 (BK/PK)
CJB Fuse 28 (15A)

CJB Fuse 32 (15A)

GEM C352
Remove ignition key. Measure the voltage between GEM C352 Pin 8, Circuit 911 (WH/LG), harness side and ground, and between GEM C352 Pin 22, Circuit 1002 (BK/PK), harness side and ground.

• Are voltages greater than 10 volts?

Yes REPAIR the circuit in question. REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs.

No GO to B10 . B10 CHECK GEM INPUT CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND -- KEY-IN-IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT 158 (BK/PK)
GEM C352
Remove ignition key. Measure the resistance between GEM C352 Pin 9, Circuit 158 (BK/PK), harness side and ground.

• Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes INSTALL a new GEM. For additional information, REFER to Section 419-10 . REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the DTCs.

No REPAIR Circuit 158 (BK/PK). REPEAT the self test. CLEAR the

• 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
• • Flash code 3 - deactivator switch circuit failure
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse 13 (20A).
  • Circuitry.
  • Deactivator switch.
  • Speed control servo.
  • Go To Pinpoint Test H .
  PINPOINT TEST H: FLASH CODE 3 - DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUIT FAILURE
• CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS H1 CHECK THE DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUITRY
  Speed Control Servo C122
  Measure the voltage between the speed control servo C122 pin 9, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side and the speed control servo C122 pin 10, circuit 57 (BK), harness side.
  
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
  Yes INSTALL a new speed control servo. REFER to Speed Control Servo in this section. REPEAT the self-test.
  
  No GO to H2 . H2 CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH POWER
  Deactivator Switch C1025
  Measure the voltage between the deactivator switch C1025, circuit 10 (LG/RD), harness side and ground.
  
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
  Yes GO to H3 .
  
  No REPAIR the circuit. REPEAT the self-test. H3 CHECK CIRCUIT 307 (BK/YE) FOR AN OPEN Measure the resistance between the speed control servo C122 pin 9, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side and the deactivator switch C1025, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side.
  
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
  Yes INSTALL a new deactivator switch. REFER to Speed Control Deactivator Switch in this section. REPEAT the self-test.
  
  No REPAIR the circuit. REPEAT the self-test.

The Battery Won't Charge or stay charged.
Several possibilities

1. Key switch doesn't turn off the system and the battery drains while it's parked.
2. Bad insulation on the wiring somewhere and the battery drains down.
3. The alternator is not putting out enough power or no power at all.
4. The battery is bad.

Let's consider the battery first. This is an easy check if you have a cheap, simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, for you fancy folks a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as easy to decipher).

1. Set the meter to DC Volts.
2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day digital meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
3. Note voltage. It should read near or above 13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged. If it reads below 12 volts the battery needs charged or it has bad cells. If after charging a few hours, the voltage is still below 12 volts then the cells are bad, replace it. That should solve your problem. If not...continue.
4. "Load Test". Turn the key to crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. Whether the engine cranks (turns over) or not, the meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
5. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
   1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 13 volts.
   2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
   3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
   4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect.
   1. Charge you battery.
   2. Repeat the test.If you get the same results...continue
   3. Replace the battery.
   4. Fully charge it,
   5. Repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.

Note: if the battery falls below 9 volts the fuel cut off, a black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor (if your model has this), will cut off the gas supply to the carburetor.

If the battery passes all the tests and you still don't get 13-14 volts of charge it's time to test the charging system.

Small engines have 3 different possible alternators, standard circuit, dual circuit, tri circuit. I would need the exact engine model numbers in order to precisely answer your question. Often mower models have choices for the engine they come with. In this situation the engine model is more important than the model of the mower.

Testing an alternator is fairly simple; all you need is the same multi-meter used for battery testing. Do take note: The settings for battery testing are DC Volts. The Settings for Stator or Alternator testing are AC Volts (in the 50 Volt range).

1. Disconnect the connector from stator. The stator is right there on top of the engine under the plastic/metal fan guard. Take this off and look for a pigtail wire with a connector. Don't get the coil wire with the spark plug end.
2. Set multi-meter for AC volts.
3. Attach RED test lead to either pin on stator side of stator connector. (On single wire leads, attach RED test lead to the single pin.) On AC output alternators there is no positive or negative because both wires alternate from positive to negative, so either pin will do.
4. On two wire lead models, attach Black test lead to the other pin. On single wire stator connectors attach the Black test lead to the engine or other ground.
5. Prepare the lawn tractor for engine start (set parking brake). Start engine and run at full throttle.
6. Check output. Output for engines of this general size run in the 30 to 50 volt range. For instance the B&S V twin 22 hp AC output at full throttle is 30 Volts minimum. Other B&S on these machines spec 40 Volt minimum.

If your voltages are not in the manufacturers range (too low), or non-existent, your stator is partly shorted or completely burnt out (open circuit). Either way you have to replace it.
A. In the picture is a single lead stator connector.
B .In the picture is a two wire lead stator connector.

No ! Do you know how to test electrical circuits ? Use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Use a wiring diagram to pin point areas for testing in a wiring harness .
Fuel pump electrical circuit diagnosis no fuel pressure testing GM
The #9 fuse powers the ECM , fuel pump relay , fuel pump switch , engine oil pressure sensor .

maybe your flyback. check b+ on the flyback. If you dont have voltage you can unsolder b+ pin on flyback and feed a 75 watt lamp to verify if power supply or flyback trouble.I think it`s pin 9 on flyback. look for print b+ on pcb.

Just moved my mitsubishi big screen from one location to another. The tv wont communicate to the remote and the tv will not resond manually. Pls help

I read the other post you made and I don't belive that the flyback transformer has gone , and these models and makes from rca do have some common fixes that are found out by tech's . this problem that you are having can be in the power section , stanby circuit , protection circuit or even a horizontal output IC or some component that is causing the set not to come on . the flyback transformer would need to be tested to determine if it went bad but the power section would need to be tested first because there are different voltages that come out of the primary transformer and they go to different parts of the tv's functions and circuits , also info like what happen when it went out? and or was there a problem with it while watching it before it went out? , this can help to know what section was failing , thus start the testing in that section.
the best thing to do is to call an electronic repair shop to have a teck come out so they can determine the failure for you , as these are pretty complex sets and unsoldering and soldering , testing of and value idenentification of components is required , so if you cannot perform these then you could be putting alot of money into it and never finding the problem.
if you would like any more info , I'll bee glad to assist you

in theses set's there should be a board that has a module that the power chord plugs into this module supllies the motherboard and the componants on it. to be honest it would be best to just let a professional replace any defective chips orboards at this point because i believe it is not just one problem but several and without me beibg hands on it would be difficult to narrow it down to just a simple answer.

Check for +15V from the flyback pin # 9, if that voltage is present; check R541 and D531. If these parts are good you should find +12V at TP98 nearby C539.
If still not voltage found, I would suggest to desolder and isolate IC561 pin 2.