Thank you for your time. So from reading that page you sent me, it seems to be a problem with my headunit, not the wires or amp. Correct me if i got the wrong thing from that page. If i install a new head unit would that work as well? also do you have a solution for the "low voltage" thing?lol thanks man for everythin so far
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You are correct that finding a universal harness is much like a unicorn hunt. I have been there before.
Your best bet is to bypass the harness, but use the same style female wire terminals that the wire harness holds together. I have included a link to www.mouser.com of the specific page of their catalog of these style connectors. You are looking at figure G.
What you will need to do, is use 18-20ga wire, solder the wire to these terminals & heat shrink them. You will then be able to individually connect each wire terminal & wire to each male pin on the headunit. It will be important to strain relief so they stay connected. Make sure you are not shorting any pins together, as this can cause damage.
In all honesty, i would look for a new headunit if this is a cheapo. The time & money spent for this solution can easily go awry when installed in a car. Installing the headunit back into the dash could knock them out, a bumpy road, etc.... Your headache may be much smaller with a different unit. But then again, like yourself, its what you do for fun.
1995 Toyota Camry Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray Radio Ground Wire: Brown Radio Illumination Wire: Green Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red Radio Amp Trigger Wire: None Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4′ Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue Rear Speakers Size: 6′ x 9′ Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White
The inline fuse goes on the power wire (as close to battery as possible), and is there for a sfety feature to keep from sending to much power to the amp. All it does, is simply blow if the power gets over the specified amperage. For your amp, I would use a 40-60 amp fuse.
The remote power line, is simply an 18 gauge wire, running from the headunit to the amp. All it does is tell the amp when to power up. Since the amp is straight to the battery, it is possible to be on at all times, so you run it to the amp so it knows when to be on. If your headunit doesnt have a remote turn on wire, then tou need to run it from the ingnition to the amp.
For a signal cable, I recommend getting an rca cable to run to the amp from the headunit. Make sure when you run it that you run it away from the power wire to prevent from having engine noise.
You also need a ground wire, wich should be to a stud on the frame of your car, as close to the amp as possible.
When hooking up your amp to the sub, you need to run the negative to the negative (black to black) and the positive to the positive (red to red).
You will need to run independent power and ground wires for the amp, then run your RCA leads from your headunit to your amp, the trigger wire to turn your amp on and off with the headunit is the pink and black wire in the kenwood wiring harness...
Yes!!!!!!!!!! Your remote wire is what tells your amplifier to turn on and off it won't work without it. Assuming your stereo headunit is an after market unit it has the correct wire for this. what you have to do is pull out you headunit, and in the back of the headunit where all the wires plug into your unit there is blue wire with a white stripe. this is the remote turn on wire. connect a wire to that blue n white wire and run it back to your amp, insert it into to the spot marked remote. turn your head unit on and your amp will power up... if you have all the rca cables hooked up your amp should be ready to go.... btw good choice on the amp, kenwood is the way to go!
I'm afraid you must go to the back of the headunit... your only other option would be to catch the wires in the door sill going towards the back, or catch them in the kick panels going towards the front doors. This will prove to be much much harder than just removing the headunit.