I'm having an issue with a brand new Nikkor 12-24 wide angle lens. I'm getting spotting on the photographs. I've cleaned every visible glass surface to no avail. Any ideas?

If the Lens doesn't go in and out, The front covers will not open, Sound like the lens is damaged, Not cost efictive to repair.

that lens is easy to repair and clean .you need the repair manual only. and follow the instructions . I can provide the repair manual if u want .

used for scenic photgraphy, http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/1923/AF-NIKKOR-35mm-f%252F2D.html

AF-S NIKKOR
600mm f/4G ED VR is the best lens you can buy.

I do not have that particular lens in my collection, but not all lenses do completely retract to a flush position. If your lens performs well at all focal lengths and takes sharp pictures, it is probably ok.

If by a "normal" lens, you mean a 35mm or 50mm fixed focal length - often called "prime" lens, that is to be expected. The additional and internal rotating optical elements all contribute to loss of clarity, color loss, and increased chromatic aberration that starts to become noticeable when compared to use of a prime lens. It's a trade off; less number of lenses to carry and lower cost when using wide angle zoom lenses as opposed to a prime lens for even just a few of the focal lengths offered by the wide angle zoom types.

You can minimize the unwanted effects by staying away from both the extreme wide angle and zoom focal lengths as well as the widest aperture settings. If you can stay 2 or 3 stops smaller from wide open, you can limit these destractions from your pictures. This is recommended advice for nearly every lens: Keep away from the extremes.

Good luck!

Edge to edge focus is an ongoing debate with every photographer that has run into it. A flat field of view is possible if you have deep pockets, a tilt shift lens, view camera in 4x5 or computer programing that will pull this out in post processing. I'm not trying to give you a smart answer but the amount of Barrel distortion and pin cushion effects on an 18mm wide angle lens will be difficult to correct. What I've done with huge groups to minimize the problem is use rows of people Kneeling, sitting and standing to minimize the effect and try to shot it loose then crop in. What this does is uses more of the center of the lens and also use F8 or F11

It's a specialised lens used only for large format cameras used by professionals where 120mm is considered to be a very wide angle lens.

It's not usable on any Nikon SLR's nor on any medium format models.

Sold privately, and in perfect condition the lens is worth around £250-£350 depending on how much the buyer wants it. From a retailer the price is around £500 (these are UK prices, in the USA they'll be around 25-30% lower).

Sounds like dust on the sensor. If this was a DSLR, you would be able to clean it but that's impossible on a point-and-shoot. If the camera is new and you have photographic proof the spots have always been there, you should be able to get a replacement under the warranty.

Nikon 10.5mm F2.8G AF DX IF-ED FISHEYE-NIKKOR

Do you have any filters attached to the lens?

Is it a Nikkor lens or a third-party?