Just changed the water pump on it, a 2.7 engine, now theres a hicccup while idling. i played with wires, and find when i remove the cconnecter from coil 5 it smooths out, kinda like a steady miss, rather than an erratic one. i swapped ccoils and the problem stays at cyl. 5. any suggestions or guidance in how to checck the wiring is apprecciated!!

Remove the water pump belt. Start and see if the noise is gone. If the noise is gone you have a bad component that is driven by the belt.

Solution: 1. The engine has Idle Air Controller (IAC) that is suppose to keep the engine speed at a constant (even with changing load - AC, FAN, etc.) If the IAC is broken your idle will be rough or even die.
The AC compressor places a large load on your engine.If there is a problem with your IAC(Idle air controller)which is located on the throttle body it will cause the vehicle to die when you turn the AC on.Remove the IAC and check it for carbon.If there is carbon try to clean it up with a wire brush.
2. If your air con is drawing more power than your alternator/battery is capable of supplying - you could try fitting a higher charge rate alternator and a heavy duty battery also ensure battery to chassis earth is sound and clean of rust and grime at metalwork.
3.Another reason for this is that when the air con is on, ice and water forms on the outside of the air con pump and condenser. This ice and water can spray around the engine bay and if there is any electrics that are around it can cause a short circuit.The easy way to fix this is to identify the air con pump and condenser, then spay WD40 on all the electrical components you can see in the direct area.
WD40 displaces water and will cause no problems with the cars electrics.

G'day mate just above the water pump there are vacuum hoses/fittings , if these have been removed / replaced incorrectly or plastic "christmas trees "broken / cracked then the air in take at that point will be evident by a slight sucking noise, this will let the engine to much air hence it will run faster at idle, check these out

Check this procedure to how to replace a water pump (DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 3.5 hours):

Parts:
1. Water Pump

Tools:
1. Screwdriver
2. Scraper
3. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
4. Cooling System Pressure Tester
5. Needle Nose Pliers
6. Socket Set
7. Radiator Hook Tool

Supplies:
1. Coolant
2. Silicone Sealant

Steps:
Step 1 With the engine off and cold, open the hood and locate the vehicle’s water pump.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
o Tip: Before removing the radiator cap, squeeze the upper radiator hose to verify that the cooling system is not pressurized.

Step 2 Remove the radiator cap.

Step 3 Install cooling system pressure tester. Apply the pressure indicated on the radiator cap or in the owner’s manual.

Step 4 Inspect cooling system components for leaks.

Step 5 Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain cooling system.
o Tip: Depending on the vehicle, lifting the vehicle may be required to gain access to the lower radiator hose.

Step 6 Remove the drive belts or serpentine belt.

Step 7 Remove any hoses connected to water pump.

Step 8 Unbolt water pump from engine. Remove the water pump.

Step 9 Using a gasket scraper, clean the mating surface on the engine block.

Step 10 Install new water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.
o Tip: You may want to use a light bead of silicone designed for water pumps.

Step 11 Re-install any hoses and belts that were removed.

Step 12 Re-install drain plug or lower radiator hose.
o Tip: Squeeze the radiator hose. If it feels soft you may want to replace the hose at this time. Always use new hose clamps.

Step 13 Refill radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, then pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.

Step 14 Fill overflow reservoir with same mixture.

Step 15 Leave the radiator cap off, start engine and let it idle. You should see the system“burping” bubbles of air. Refill the radiator to the top.
o Tip: Most air is expelled after a couple minutes of idling. Be cautious of potentially hot fluid overflowing.

Step 16 Install radiator cap.

Step 17 Road test vehicle, keep an eye on the engine temp gauge if vehicle runs hot, there still might be an air pocket in the cooling system. The cooling system should be topped off after vehicle has fully cooled down.

Good luck.

1 disconect neg.battery cable 2 drain the cooling system 3 remove air intake tube from filter housing to throttle body 4 remove top half of fan shroud 5 remove the serpentine belt 6 use a strap wrench to prevent the waterpump pulley from turning while turning the fan clutch in the counterclockwise direction. 7 remove fan and set aside 8 remove belt tensioner 9 remove hoses from water pump 10 remove 6 bolts, 3 on either side and remove the water pump. 11 remove the thermostat housing from the old pump and install on the new one. 12 re assemble in reverse order. make sure the mating surface of the engine block where the pump bolts on is clean and free of old gasket material before installing new pump and gaskets. When assembled fill cooling system, start engine and let idle untill thermostat opens and engine reaches operating temp.KEEP WATER LEVEL FULL. After a test drive recheck the coolant level, and you are done.

How to Replace a Water Pump
DIY Complexity: Moderate
DIY Time: 3.5 hours

Parts:
1. Water Pump

Tools:
1. Screwdriver
2. Scraper
3. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
4. Cooling System Pressure Tester
5. Needle Nose Pliers
6. Socket Set
7. Radiator Hook Tool

Supplies:
1. Coolant
2. Silicone Sealant

Steps:
Step 1 * With the engine off and cold, open the hood and locate the vehicle’s water pump.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
o Tip: Before removing the radiator cap, squeeze the upper radiator hose to verify that the cooling system is not pressurized.

Step 2 * Remove the radiator cap.

Step 3 * Install cooling system pressure tester. Apply the pressure indicated on the radiator cap or in the owner’s manual.

Step 4 * Inspect cooling system components for leaks.

Step 5 * Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain cooling system.
o Tip: Depending on the vehicle, lifting the vehicle may be required to gain access to the lower radiator hose.

Step 6 * Remove the drive belts or serpentine belt.

Step 7 * Remove any hoses connected to water pump.

Step 8 * Unbolt water pump from engine. Remove the water pump.

Step 9 * Using a gasket scraper, clean the mating surface on the engine block.

Step 10 * Install new water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.
o Tip: You may want to use a light bead of silicone designed for water pumps.

Step 11 * Re-install any hoses and belts that were removed.

Step 12 * Re-install drain plug or lower radiator hose.
o Tip: Squeeze the radiator hose. If it feels soft you may want to replace the hose at this time. Always use new hose clamps.

Step 13 * Refill radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, then pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.

Step 14 * Fill overflow reservoir with same mixture.

Step 15 * Leave the radiator cap off, start engine and let it idle. You should see the system“burping” bubbles of air. Refill the radiator to the top.
o Tip: Most air is expelled after a couple minutes of idling. Be cautious of potentially hot fluid overflowing.

Step 16 * Install radiator cap.

Step 17 * Road test vehicle, keep an eye on the engine temp gauge if vehicle runs hot, there still might be an air pocket in the cooling system. The cooling system should be topped off after vehicle has fully cooled down.

Good luck (remember rated this help).

alfred11s: No, you don't have to lift the motor. You do have to remove the right hand engine mounting insulator.
I will give you the procedure for the removal to access the pump:.
1.Drain engine coolant
2. remove right hand engine mounting insulator
3. Remove #2 and # 3 timing belt covers
4. Remove front engine mounting insulator as follows
a. remove hole cover
b. remove the 2 bolts from the mounting
c. remove the nut, the through-bolt and front engine mounting insulator
5. Remove the electric cooling fan
6.Disconnect engine wire remove the bolt and 2 nuts and disconnect the engine wire.
Water pump removal instructions:
1. Disconnect the crank sensor connector from the dipstick tube
2, Remove the dipstick tube and dipstick (only 1 bolt holds it)
3. Disconnect the water temp sensor from harness
4, Remove the two nuts and the # 2 water inlet from the hose.
5.Remove the three bolts which retain the water pump!
CAUTION! try to keep antifreeze off the timing belt. Put rags down and pack them where the coolant would normally spill.
WELL alfred11s: My answer should be a pleasant surprise.
Print it out and carry it out to the car.
If I've done well, maybe you can comment on what you think

jack engine up and remove motor mount and you should be able to replace your water pump

It is a well Known problem within the 2.7 L family ...
Here is the deal Go to the dealer get a Mopar oil sending unit.
once under the vehicle look to behind oil pan about center ways and take pigtail (wire) off sensor then remove unit .
once removed if alot of sludge is there clean area very good then install new unit and inspect wire if it connection even looks bad cut wire and add new wire (MAKE SURE TO USE HEAT SHRINK TAPE OR LIQIUD ELECTRICAL TAPE TO SEAL WIRE COMPLETELY. >>>>NOT JUST ELECTRIC TAPE<<<<)
Ok now thats done plug wire back into unit .
Note: 2.7 L engines also have sludge problems and need to have engine flush and oil pan dropped clean oil pump screen and pan then start useing synthetic oil you should be able to go about 10,000 miles useing synthetic and you will have to only change filter 2 or 3 times . this should solve issue and help extend life of motor. SB

That is just condensation. Usually if you have a cracked water jacket you will get white smoke out of the exhaust rather than raw water\\