Question about Whirlpool LSQ8000 Top Load Washer

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LSR5132PQO Whirlpool Washer (Top Loader)

My washer spins out when it wants too. At first I thought the coupler might be bad but when I looked, they were like new. Sometimes to get the thing to spin I have to turn the basket. Usually that will do it. Basket drive? Are they hard to replace?

Posted by JohnJosh on


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Ron Marek

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John, it's possible that it could be the basket drive. It sounds more like the clutch assy. Take the agitator off and look at the drive block. The two ears from the basket drive should be tight into the drive block, I will attach a picture of how it should look. If that looks ok, then I would suspect the clutch. They are not hard jobs, either one of them. LSR5132PQO Whirlpool Washer (Top Loader) - 96d31f5.jpg

Posted on Aug 17, 2008


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1 Answer

How do you get to the washer belt? I think it is not spinning. I think it came off the pulley.


Is your machine a front,or top loader, if top loader the most typical problem will be the motor coupler,Is it makes a clunking noise that makes a think the belt has come off? if yes noisy watch this youtube video and it will show how to get to and replace coupler.

i hope my answer helps you to figure out what is wrong with your washer,

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I have a top loader and replaced the coupler, now the drum is unbalanced when spinning, how do I re balance it. The technician says its a simple job but will not tell me how

If you had the washer tilted back when you replaced the coupler, this may just be a simple matter of releveling the washer. Whirlpool top loaders have an auto-leveling mechanism on the back two feet of the washer. Periodically, you may need to check the level due to normal vibration and moving the appliance.. The following link explains how:

If the washer is unlevel it can give the appearance of the drum being tilted. Try this and let me know if this helps you. If not, please post back and let me know.

May 03, 2011 | Whirlpool LSR5132PQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Sounds like a screwdriver is caught up in the gears.

Assuming that this is a basic top loader, direct drive, neutral drain washer the first thing I'd look at is the motor coupler.

This is a three part device between the motor and transmission (1 plastic piece on the transmission shaft, 1 plastic piece on the motor shaft with a rubber coupler between them designed as a fail safe.

If the coupler is broken, that could be the cause of the noise and not engaging.

Beyond that, it could likely be either the plastic or metal gears in the transmission.

Here are a couple of places to check.

Sears parts site:

Enter your model number and a directory of sub-components will come up. Check the category for motor and pump for the coupler.

Whirlpool installation and maintenance manual. This appears to be a public domain PDF file with descriptions of how the washer works and transmission diagnostics.$FILE/L-55.pdf

Whirlpool parts list for a commercial washer. Basically the same as consumer models.

Since you usually try to fix things yourself, you have nothing to lose by trying to diagnose the problem and repairing it yourself.

We had a problem with major noise and no spinning on ours and by tearing the transmission apart and replacing an agitator cam assembly (plastic) and neutral drain assembly (also plastic) we spent just $30 (including new 80-90 weight oil) instead of $170 for a new transmission.

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Bad/broken coupler/

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Hi, Is the humming noise coming from the timer area? Do you know if it agitates ok?
When you have it in spin cycle, Try lifting the lid and see if the hum stops.
The reason for these questions is that on this model, if it drains the water out but does not spin, it is either lid switch, coupler, or transmission.
If it's the coupler, it will not agitate either.
Please let me know so I can assist you further.


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It would help to know what washing machine we're dealing with.....but I'll just assume it's a standard Kenmore(whirlpool) direct drive top loader. If so, you most likely have a broken motor coupler, which is located between the motor and transmission, that's most likely, although you could have a very bad clutch or tranny too. Check the coupler first. Hope that helps.

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1 Answer

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Check the lid switch with a volt/ohm meter for continuity.
If no continuity, replace the lid switch.

Check the direct drive coupling on the motor.
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1 Answer

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your water pressure tube is clogged at the tub. Take the back of the control panel off and blow or a small balst of compressed air down this tube and try the washer again. Powder detergent clogs this tube at the bottom of the tub and does not tell your pressure switch to shut the water off at the proper level thus overflowing your tub.

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