I have recently purchased a set of M-Audio Studiophile BX8a Deluxe studio monitors. I can't register them for warranty because I can't find any serial number on the monitors or box that they came in. The back of the speakers look exactly like this: http://zkcd.net/_gfx/matos/dyn/large/m-audio-studiophile-bx8a-deluxe_2.jpg I cannot see a serial number on them. There is a sticker on each speaker, but the codes on them simply correspond to barcodes on the sticker and none of them are valid according to the M-Audio registration form. Am I missing something? thanks! Chris Clarke

If the woofer is motor boating....going in and out, like a flutter,
likely a power supply issue on the power amp board, in back of the speaker. This would need to be repaired. Since these are powered speakers, if for example, a power supply capacitor were bad,
it can do that. If under warrantee, find an authorized repair center near you. Contact manufacturer.
Hope this helps.

It's shutting down automatically due to heat peaking. You need to turn off until you are ready to use it.

Do the level controls/volume controls move freely? or with difficulty? are the jacks correct for length and polarity? Do they "pop" when input is unplugged?
Mute button somewhere?

The fault is not with the speakers... It is with the noisy audio system common in computers. Get a decent USB audio interface and use balanced interconnect cables to solve the problem.

There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC.

-Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use.
- Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem]

Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues.

-Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs.

Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows.

You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway).

M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional.

Hope this helps.



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If you are smelling a burnt smell, then you have probably burnt out the speaker coil. You would need to take both speakers to a local repair centre in your area and have them checked out. They may be able to repair the speaker or may have to replace it.

These speakers have a history of being blown if played too loud. Apparently the higher quality CX version are reliable. If the lows are what is crackling, the voice coils are probably cooked causing it to drag the pole pieces.

swop the speakers overs this will tell you weather it is the speaker or the amp. if the speaker then it has blown or the crossover unit has blown. the crossover unit splits the signal to the bass /middle and top frequencies. if you want an easy way out after you have checked the speakers/amp by swoping them just go and buy a new pair but make the sure they are the same impedance as the old pair as you can easily damage the amp

It could be that the input jack is or cable is damaged. The input to the right speaker is from the left speaker via speaker cable. Check that wire and try a new one. All speakers are susceptible to some type of interference. Make sure the cables aren't tangled and free from other powered equipment.

Hope this helps

The setting of the volume controls bears LITTLE importance to the actual level the unit is being run at since one can send high levels INTO the units from the source. These are intended to be used in a studio for the audio engineer to listen to in a small room. They should really be no louder than a consumer BoomBox maximum.

A squeaking noise is not normal at a level such as mentioned however. You might see if the noise is from the speaker itself or possibly parts of the cabinet... Plastic parts are NOTED for squeeking and can be suitably lubricated.

Beyond that, since the units are new, you should be able to exercise your warranty.