Table saw overheats triping braber. have cleaned contacts and tighten the conections on the side of the saw.

The carriage under the table is held to the underside of the table with several bolts or screws. Loosen those screws.
Raise the blade and clamp a stiff metal straight edge to the side of the blade. Use a carbide blade and clamp the straight edge to the sides of the teeth. Move the carriage around until the straight edge is parallel with the miter gauge slots, then tighten the bolts.

Look up your model on the www.sears.com/parts web site. The manual may be still avaible there too. If it isn't use the first part of the model (example: 110.1223456- 110- is a whilpool product) to find the manufacture , then call them direct.

most like its damp, or the bushes need replaced, check the fuse in plug and also at source meter board for a triped fuse

There should be some screws on the bottom side of the fence that allow you to make adjustments. Loosen then slightly then set the fence to 90 degrees & then tighten them.

Sounds like the bolts that hold the motor assembly on the table may be loose allowing the blade assembly to move. Look underneath the table and clean out all the dirt and loosen all the hold down bolts and realign the blade and tighten back up.

you don't adjust the table, you need to remove the table from the base and clean the surface, when you take it apart you will see what I am talking about. To do this first unplug the tool and remove the fence and kerf boards, under the kerf boards you will find a 13MM hex bolt just like on the fence, remove the bolt and lift the table off the base, clean the wear plates and lube them with a light coat of grease, on the outside rails you will see what is causing your problem, clean with a surface conditioner or fine sandpaper, lube this area also.. Make sure you do all the sides for a smooth turn, reassemble the table to the base in reverse order and install the bolt, I usually tighten all the way snug and then loosen till you can turn the table freely making sure not to loosen too much or the table will rock. Reassemble the fence squaring it to the blade and replace the kerf boards. It sounds complicated but really it is not. This is the only way you can get that metal to metal rough turning repaired. Let me know if you need more assistance

With the saw unplugged and the blade tightened, using your fingers try to wiggle the blade side to side and lift it up and down. Other than a little flexing of the blade, there should be no movement. If you have much movement you have a problem and the saw is dangerous. If this is a belt-driven saw, then you may be able to replace the bearings on the arbor (the shaft the saw mounts to) or you may have to replace the whole arbor. If this is a direct-drive saw (the saw mounts directly on the motor shaft) then the bearings that have failed are in the motor and you are less likely to be able find and install replacement bearings. If you find the model number of your saw, you might be able to find drawings and replacement parts on this site:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/
Thanks for using FixYa. Let me know if I can help more. Good luck. Al K

Check to see if the hadle is just spinning on the crank shaft- tighten the set screw on the side of the handle

At the arbor end it should be a curved 3/16" key. At the motor it will be a square 3/16" key. I would guess these should be available at most hardware stores, but I would have both types & most other parts too. I sell craftsman table saw parts, you can contact me via email [email protected]

This model does not have a knob on the side.
There is only a locking lever on the front next to a single rotating wheel for height adjustments. To tilt the blade simply twist the locking lever to the left and push the height adjustment wheel to the right. It can be a bit stiff at times to move.