I have the AutoCirc fixed thermostat model, and I installed it last fall as part of my bathroom remodel. It worked great for a couple months, but now it does not seem to be functioning at all. I have changed the timer settings, unplugged and re-plugged it, tested the power at the socket, and turned the switch to constant On, and nothing seems to work. Is there something internally in the pump that can be cleaned/fixed/replaced easily or checked?

http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Gene
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The hot side of the faucet is most likely plugged with something that came up thru the water system. The average thankless waterheater requires at least 1/2 to 3/4 gpm flow rate for the unit to sense flow and turn on. If there is not enough flow it will not fire and heat the water. Not sure about this particular unit but a few require at least one full gallon per minute flow. So chances are that if you fix the faucet, you fix the hot water issue at the same time

If some taps have really hot and others luke warm, then you might have defective mixing valve, check valve, or crossover on single handled faucet.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Crossover can also cause stacking event. Stacking could be part of puzzle.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Stacking.html

Once crossover or check valve or mixing valve problem is solved, if you have really hot water to some taps, then turn down thermostat to avoid scalding.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

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It's true, nobody has 100% perfect answer for broken stuff.
Open following link for some autocirc resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

If I understand correctly, you removed supply line that connects autocirc pump to the hot water shut off valve.
Buy standard sink supply line at local box store or plumbing supply.
If memory serves, the supply line is 1/2" IP thread that connects to pump and 3/8" Compression fitting that connects to shut off.
You might try using thick-bodied white teflon joint compound to help seal the connection.
I use rectoseal on threaded connections and tubular drain connections to ensure forever seal:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/rectoseal-006-400.jpg

If brass part of pump is cracked, then autocir may be bad.
I have no idea how to permanently fix a broken brass water fitting, and would suggest replacement at that point.

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Open following link for Re-circulation information and resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

On a new Autocirc, you can choose between 'Timed' operation or 'Thermostatic' operation using the slide switch located below timer dial.
For Thermostat operation, slide switch to ON.
For Timed operation slide switch to Timer.

This solution assumes system is functional, and the check valve and internal wiring are working. Autocirc is a quality product.

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Double check your slide switch.
For timer: set switch to TIMER
For thermostat: set switch to ON
If slide switch does not operate, then Autocirc may be defective

Laing (800) 554-6853
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Laing-E1-E3-E10-install-instructions.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Auto-circ-manual.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

1) Household AC wiring will not affect the timer.
You can check your outlet using cheap circuit analyzer from home center.
The clock rotates one direction and the pins push small lever down which turns motor on-off.
When the OFF pins pass, the small lever snaps back and the motor turns ON.

I cannot immediately find operation manual for the E-1 model.
Typical ACT303 auto circ manual says following:

2) If timer controlled operation is desired, set timer and move slide switch to TIMER:
Manual says: tabs/pins are outward for ON times.
Another sentence says UPWARD, so I don't know which way the pins are set for sure.
So if you want timer ON for 2 hours, you would set 4 consecutive pins outward or upward.
ON for 6 hours, set 12 consecutive pins outward or upward.
If the timer turns ON in reverse of instructions, then set the pins that way.
Autocirc does not make the timer, they buy timer modules from clock-makers like Grasslin, Intermatic, etc.

3) To operate Autocir thermostatically without the timer, slide switch to ON position.
The clock dial will continue rotating

Autocirc can be uninstalled and the pipe cleaned out with CLR (calcium lime and rust), otherwise there are no repair parts.
Once the motor begins to slow, it overheats and burns out.
11 years is a good run, so you must have good water or are careful about your water softener.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html
Using the timer and running Autocirc 1 hour a day costs between $11 and $17 per year to operate.
2 hours a day is $22-34 per year.
This includes pump operation and additional time that water heater operates.

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If you have the same Autocirc product I have, then it cannot be taken apart. The timer seems to be connected and sealed together with the pump. If yours is different, answer back with the wires that you can see and we'll see if the timer can be by-passed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

With the ordinary Grunfos-type pump that is not on a timer, you can add a switch and have the pump work on demand as you describe.

And they make a product that does the specific job you describe. It's called a Demand Pump. Link above shows two different types at page bottom.

I have not tested either Demand Pump shown. They operate on-demand ... when you activate the pump, the pump quickly brings water over from the hot water heater.

So the Demand Pump has a higher volume pump than the Autocirc or Grunfos.

I question a two things about the Demand Pump. 1) How will the increased pump pressure affect local pipes, especially supply tubes under a sink. 2) How HOT does the pump get? If pump gets hot, and it is located under bathroom sink next to paper goods, then that is a hazard. Some regional building codes don't allow ceiling light bulbs in closets because the bulbs get hot and start fires when people pack their closets full.

Open following link for Re-circulation information and resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

If the unit is getting hot, it may have already slowed and is now spiraling to it end.
Try bleeding air out of water lines, and clean autocirc with CLR calcium lime and rust remover.
Recirculation systems have a built in check valve so cold water side of faucet will work correctly. If this check valve is stuck open or closed, it can affect a lot of things in the plumbing system.
For example, stuck check valve can cause tankless water heater not to operate. It can also cause autocirc pump to overheat.
Lines, or elbows clogged with sediment can also cause same problems with recirculation system. If your system has direct return line to water heater that connects into the water heater drain port, then clog in line can cause overheated pump. Check water flow, check water lines, and clean out autocirc.

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Open following link for Re-circulation information and resources, including diagram of installation and operation:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on autocirc or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.