Radio Shack top of the line digital multimeter. 1/2 amp fuse blew now ohmeter function does not work. Voltage readings and capitance readings are ok. Meter is several years old and it's product lists it as Cat # 22-801

You may need someone to help on this one. First thing, check all the 12VDC fuses for your Jayco. It has mini blade style fuses. Using a multimeter or a probe, check for voltage on both sides of the fuse. Next you need to access the back of the switch to confirm you have voltage going in and out when depressing the switch. No power, get a new switch. Yes to power, proceed to next part.

If you know exactly which fuse if for that slide and you do have power, an ohmeter can be used while someone else is pushing the switch the retract. Most of the fuses are 20A, so you should be getting much less. You can also do a comparison between each of the slides. Keep in mind the bigger slides are much heavier so the amperage draw will be higher than smaller and lighter, but still under 20A. If no answer meter or amp clamp type of meter, a multimeter can be used on the DC reading and watching the voltage drop as the switch is pressed. If you do not have amperage or voltage drops, might be a loose or cut wire. If you do have drops and nothing happens, most likely the motor has seized and will need replacement.

unhook any power source from the unit, if you can solder remove that part and take it to any radio shack , or place like that , who supplies electronic parts, and have them give you a suitable replacement , and re-install it,, be sure to check for board burns or bubbling in the line strips. this part is for one or more of the functions of your meter

Hello
Never put any fuse in it and switch ON. It has some short with internal circuit, and should be repaired before installing a new fuse. The fuse use is as a protection device to protect the other circuit parts from further damage. If you will put an other fuse, and switch it ON again, you are making things more worse than present. Find out the reason for buring out fuse. If you can do it by yourself. Otherwise get it repaired by any experienced service personal. Never make it irreparable. OK.

I use the ohmmeter function on my digital multimeter (DMM). You can get a basic DMM from Sears or Radio Shack for about $30.

First, (safety check) measure the voltage across the terminals unless you know there is no power in the circuit, or better yet, disconnect the resistor so other components don't give you a false reading. Attempting to read the value of a resistor in a live circuit will give you a meaningless number at best, and may severely damage your meter at worst. It could also damage other parts in the circuit.

Now switch your meter to the lowest ? range (Greek capital Omega, for Ohm) greater than the expected value of the resistor. Connect one test lead to each end of the resistor. The number you read should be the expected value plus or minus the tolerance (e. g., a 100 ? 5% resistor should read somewhere between 95.0 - 105.0 on the 200 ? range.). A bad resistor will usually show up as 1___ (over-range) because it will be burned out and open. Some very old carbon composition resistors will short (read much less than 1 ?) when they fail.

Often, a visual inspection will identify a bad resistor - if you can see that it's burned and broken, it's bad and further testing is unnecessary. The ohmmeter is for all the other cases.

I bought a pre-owned Delonghi Magnifica 4400 on eBay. It would grind the beans for an espresso, but then would not complete the function. Everything seemed to work fine except the machine would not deliver water anywhere-no espresso, no rinse, no steam, no hot water. I took it to the closest authorized repair shop (about 60 miles away) and it cost $260 for them to replace the "transmission system." I've had it back a few days now and everything is working perfectly...

I assume a "DM-350a" is some kind of a digital multimeter. I Googled and found it might be a "A.W. Sperry DM350A 5 Function 17 Range Digital Multimeter" and looking at the ranges available on that meter, you can't really thest the battery "under load" the only reasonable way to test small batteries. the DC current only goes up to 200 milli amperes. A "C" or "D" size flashlight battery puts out 1 to 4 amps depending on conditions. That's 5 to 20 times the current readable by that meter. The volts on one of those batteries is probably 1.6 volts to 1.3 volts etc. If you live in the United States, I'd say go to Radio Shack and spend $5 to $15 and buy a battery tester like "Enercell Analog 9-Range Battery Checker, $14.99, Model 22-156, catalog # 22-156"
Then you and anyone in your family can read the instructions and test 8 or 9 different type batteries. Battery types: 1.5V button-cells, "AAA"/"N"/"AA"/"C"/"D", 6V, 9V, 12V, 15V and 22.5V..
This is not supposed to be an advertizement, and I have no interest in RadioShack,... but it's supposed to be instructional.

Small price, Good instruction to anyone who can read, and if anyone forgets, they can re-read. Testing a lot of batteries in a sitting goes very fast with these.

Differently, with the sperry, or any voltmeter, you'd have to select a resistor small enough to draw the current, and large enough not to overheat or burn, connect it and measure the loaded voltage drop, compare the voltage and current of the loaded battery, and compare it to that of a new battery, and a battery you might consider too weak for your application.. Voltage equals amps times resistance, and power equals amps squared times resistance... Really, buy a battery tester.
Regards --- GooseBay_Camper

Pop the top and check the fuse by the AC plug on the inside. Chances are you will need a meter to do this since most receiver fuses are either white or gray. If you have a multimeter, dial it to ohms and you will see a sign that looks like -))) When you touch the two leads together you should hear a tone and if digital, the display will read "1." Take the leads and touch either side of the fuse, if you hear tone, fuse is good. No tone, bad fuse. Radio Shack carries fuses of all types and usually has them in stock, and can test yours for you as well. If the fuse is O.K. then your unit needs to be serviced. It's either a power supply, transformer, or chipset. Hope this helps

It sure sounds like a short in the left signal circuit. I can't say where the wires are routed but you may have one with failed insulation or pinched under some hardware.
You could avoid repeated fuse replacement if you buy a cheap digital multimeter from Radio Shack (if you are in the US) or alternately, from an auto parts store. One adequate for this would be under $20 US. Some have a continuity checker that sounds a 'chime' that stops when the resistance level rises a bit. Since the meter could be damaged if the short clears, it would be smart to disconnect the negative side (ground) of the battery. Putting the probes across the fuse contact will simulate the fuse for this checking but it will not let your signals function. I would punch the probes into the fuse holder, put on the left turn signal and start removing bulbs and checking the routing of the wiring. When the chime stops, you have found the culprit. 

replace the blow fuse
above left knee, fuse panel there.
1 is blown.
your amp was shorted, it blew and took out what oem wiring they hacked into .

bad installation.

Depends on how hard the fuse blew. If softly, perhaps 1 amp diff is too much.

If hard - blackened inside - then you need to call in a tech.


Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com