Looking for replacement 'no-mar' shoe. The rubber part on the tip. I can't find them anywhere on-line. I'll take three.

I am not sure if there is a repair shop in Manhattan for this, but I would bet that there is. If you look in the yellow pages and then visit some shoe stores to see the work they do, you will find out if there is someone who can help you.

Best to do this in a well vented area because of the fire hazard, so that the gas fumes don't accumulate.
1) Disconnect battery negative cable.2) Jack up car and support on safety Jack stands3) Siphon gas out of tank4) Remove three rubber hoses on rear of tank. These are used for gas fill up; remove hose clamps and disconnect.5) Remove three hoses from front of tank; these hoses go from the fuel pump to the engine. You'll need special fuel line wrenches for this.6) Disconnect two connectors at the front of the tank.7) Remove two bolts that hold the exhaust pipe heat shield. You'll want to use penetrating oil on these; they will be corroded.8) Support tank with a floor jack. Remove the bolts which hold the tank in place. Pivot the tank on the exhaust, tilt and slide out.9) The gas hoses are taped to the tank. Remove the hoses. The fuel pump plate has about 12 screws around it. Remove the screws. Lift the plate out. The fuel pump is retained with one screw. Remove the screw. Filter is retained with a clip; remove it.10) Get your new fuel pump ($250), the rubber gasket for the fuel pump plate, and new filter ($5). Compare the pump with the old one; it must be the exact lenght. I had to go to two different auto parts stores before I got the right one.Installation is opposite of above. Good luck!Fuel pump is not too tough. First, get a Haynes or Chilton manual for reference (about $14).Best to do this outdoors, so that the gas fumes don't accumate. If I recall correctly:1) Disconnect battery2) Jack up car3) Siphon gas out of tank4) Remove three rubber hoses on rear of tank. These are used for gas fill up; remove hose clamps and disconnect.5) Remove three hoses from front of tank; these hoses go from the fuel pump to the engine. You'll need special fuel line wrenches for this.6) Disconnect two connectors at the front of the tank.7) Remove two bolts that hold the exhaust pipe heat shield. You'll want to use penetrating oil on these; they will be corroded.8) Support tank with a floor jack. Remove the bolts which hold the tank in place. Pivot the tank on the exhaust, tilt and slide out.9) The gas hoses are taped to the tank. Remove the hoses. The fuel pump plate has about 12 screws around it. Remove the screws. Lift the plate out. The fuel pump is retained with one screw. Remove the screw. Filter is retained with a clip; remove it.10) Get your new fuel pump ($250), the rubber gasket for the fuel pump plate, and new filter ($5). Compare the pump with the old one; it must be the exact lenght. I had to go to two different auto parts stores before I got the right one.Installation is opposite of above. Good luck!


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_a_fuel_filter_for_a_92_geo_storm#ixzz27tyFTkDd

This is a fuel pressure issue. chang out the fuel filter (near pass light, cylinder with 4 rubber lines running from the top), not the fuel pump (right next to the filter; follow two of the rubber lines from the fuel filter to the driver side...that's your pump, the shiny squarish looking thing, it'll have 4 hard lines running from the righthand side of it).

I just fixed my 98 and expect your is pretty much the same. The resistor module is located in back of the blower motor, very close to the firewall. Just follow the two wire connector on the motor. It goes to the resistor module. You'll also see a seven wire connector on the module. It was easier to work on it after I removed the motor but it'd not absolutely necessary. The module has three screws, one in front, two in the rear. Remove the front one ( mine was a 7/32 socket ) and just loosen the rear ones.

You should be able to slide the resistor module out. If it's like mine, it's a printed circuit board with resistor patterns etched into it. Different fan speed switch settings feed power to different resistor segments, delivering more or less voltage to the fan motor and varying the speed ( it's a DC motor ).

I was able to repair mine, but you may not be able to depending on the extent of the damage. The failure mode is pretty simple. Again, if you have the pc "card" like mine, there's a thin green insulating paper attached to the card that's deteriorated. You'll see two small horse shoe shaped pieces soldered to pads on each side of the board. The insulation breaks down and **** accumulates under the horse shoe shaped pieces. Eventually, the etched resistor lines under those pieces are eaten through and they fail with either an open or high resistance ( about 30 ohms in my case - it is supposed to be about two to four ohms for the motor to run ).

If you want to try to fix it, carefully bend the horse shoe shaped pieces up to give you enough room to clean the **** off the board. A toothbrush works great. Examine the resistor lines with a magnifying glass until you find the damaged area. Verify that damage with an ohmmeter if you have one. Carefully solder a small wire across the damages area. That's it. Hook it up temporarily to try it. Or just buy a replacement and put it in. I could fix it because I had the tools and used to do that kind of work.

The part number on mine was 101853. Dorman makes a replacement, check out partsgeek.com. It looks different because they use discrete resistors, not a pc board. Here's the schematic. My wire colors were different but it's basically correct.

First of all, you have no rear axle. Are you talking about the subframe or your hubs? As for drum size, I would go with the same size that are coming off. If you want to (and can) go bigger, you just need to make sure they have enough clearance inside your wheels. When ordering parts, you will be asking for: wheel cylinders, shoes, spring kit and drums. Note: the wheel cylinders you will only need to change if you are changing the SIZE of your drums or IF THEY LEAK. To see if they are good, pull your drums, smack your shoes from one side then to the other (using the palms of your hands) then back to center. Pull back the rubber boots and inspect for moisture. If they're dry, don't change the cylinders. If they're wet, they're leaking and need to be replaced. Now, if you do need to replace your wheel cylinder(s), you need to look in behind and assess the condition of the brake line fitting. If it looks rotten beyond all hell, you'll likely be into doing the brake line(s) as well. NOTE: when you actually do get into changin your brakes, do ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Drum brakes can be complex and if you take apart both sides then you have no reference as to how to put them back together!

Just to try, please clear everything and press the = sign.

Try pressing it firmly and with a rocking motion.
Does the display flicker?

If nothing happens ...
I guess you know the answer to that.
Taking it to a service depot is an expensive proposition.

At this point you have nothing to lose, but you may have something to gain.
You can try taking it apart.

You'll need a small Philips screwdriver, some masking tape, some rubbing alcohol or the blue stuff used on fondues, a paper towel, and several Q-tips.
Make sure you have proper ventilation and there are on open flames anywhere near.

- Put the masking tape over the keys. This will help prevent them from flying all over the place.
- Remove the screws and pry it apart gently.

Remember, "Nothing to lose" is not the same as "Nothing to gain"
If it works you'll have a working calc again, and some new experience.

There may be two or three screws holding the little board in place. Remove them and gently again separate the board from the front plate.
There you'll see a rubber thinghie covering the front of the board. Separate it carefully.

You're almost there.

First wipe the board with the paper towel moistened with the cleaning fluid and put it aside.

Now thake a Q-tip, moisten it with the fluid and wipe each and every one of the little rubber protrusions. Get a new Q-tip every time it gets dirty.

Make sure there is no paper fluff on any of it.
Give it a few seconds to dry and start re-assembling the calculator.

If the problem was a poor contact, you have solved it.

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Elastic gores do seem to wear out first, especially if shoes are snug.

Latex rubber elastic starts as a natural plant product so will decompose on its own over time. Repeated stretching hastens the process, as does normal environmental exposure (extreme heat, sun, humidity or overly dry conditions are worse!) and accidental smudges of shoe polish, shine and/or cleaning products.

Ask your local Cobbler or Shoe Shop to fix them for you. They will remove the old elastic and stitching, and replace it with fresh elastic.

While the shoes are in the shop, they'll inspect for other, less noticeable worn areas of the shoes. The support of soles and heels may be compromised by the time elastic shows wear, affecting comfort levels.

I've had this problem with my daughter's shoes, and her foot is very narrow. I cut down some generic-brand Dr. Scholl's-type insoles (available at grocery and drugstores) and that did the trick.
1. Get the appropriate sized insoles, and lay the right show on the right insole, and the left shoe on the left insole. Trace them with a pen.
2. Cut out the insole, cutting slightly inside the lines-- the inside of the shoe is smaller than the outside.
3. Work the insoles inside the shoe. Use your fingers to feel around the edges to see where you need to trim them to fit.
4. If it's too long, don't trim all the length off the toe, or all the length off the heel... you'll mess up where the arch curves.
Good luck! I hope it works for you.

The master cylinder is under the drivers floorboard. you can find it under the car by following the brake pedals linkage. These cars have only one ( circuit) for all four wheels. Any wheel cyclinder or brake line can fail anywhere and all the brakes go out. If you don't see brake fluild on the inside side of any of the tires with one person pulling the brakes get under the car and you may hare or even see the leak. If it's been awhile since the leak started you may have to put it more break fluild and pump to see the leak. Or do what they aways did in the old days when mechanics were paid the lease of any trade and take it all aprt and change and servive( rebuild) everything. Rebuild and master cyclinder and renew any bushings in the pedal linkage. ( this stuff may be very hard to buy) replace all the medal break lines and any rubber lines too. ( again hard to find) rebuild all the wheel cyclinders, and reline all the break shoes and resurface all the drums( turn them) these days you will have to settel for rebuilt or replica new wheel cycluinders and master cyclinder, compleate break shoes as the ( art ) of relined and cam grinding the shoes to match the radius of the turned drum is old school and so are the tools and the parts to do them. The car is going to be driven any in traffic with moern cars even a little op fot the new parts and grin and bear it as to the prices will and may be outrageous. Wreak it as you fooled around OK try some of the crash damage parts you'll wish you did it all. The master cylinder will have a bolt headed cap that may be very hard to remove as it'll be rusted on. Heat it if you have to take your time as the things you break may be very hard to come up with even used. The bracket that the masteer bolts onto the bottom of the car may be rusted gone and as you press on the pedel the master may be just moving out of the way. The last time I drove a 53 wast in 1974 and all of these things happened to me so it's alot of time since then so all the problems are likly to be magnified. Be careful as all repars need not be hurried as doing any thing over may be cosly and even more time comsuming.

It is called a wheel cylinder and the rubber cups leak when they wear out. You can buy a new wheel cylinder at Murrays or Autozone for @ $10. SInce it is leaking, you will need a set of brake shoes too, since they are runied when wet with fluid. Replace bot wheel cylinders.

If you do the repair, it will be under $100. A shop will charg about $250 to replace shoes, machine drums and replace wheel cylinders. That's assuming the brake line isn't too rusted into the wheel cylinder. Spary with penetrating oil for a week before attempting to remove brake line.

Take a picture of where all springs, etc go.

here's a mercury example