Lid Switch Did you have to remove the washer body to install the new switch?

It's fairly basic. First unplug machine, then you'll have to take off control panel above (the panel that has all the dials or displays) Usually there are screws in the back or you may need a putty knife to slide into each of the two corners to release the clips. Once you get the panel up (don't yank it as it connected with a bunch of wires to the body. Disconnect the electric connection from the panel to the body(should be just one). You should see two metal clips which hold the body onto the frame. Release those two clips and the body should come off as you pull it forward. Now, you can clearly see the lid switch by looking under the body and just unscrew and replace with new switch. Reassemble in same order. By the way, the reason these switch go bad is because people get careless and let the washer lid/door drop down after loading clothes and it weakens then breaks the switch. Happy laundrying!

Remove power to the unit.
Locate the console and remove two phillips head screws. Most
models have them in the front, bottom of the console. In some of the newer models they are located in the back, bottom of the console. Some washers require you to remove two end caps on the console to access the screws.
After you remove the two screws, slide the console slightly forward and then up. The console will then hinge to the back of the washer.
With the console now hinged back, locate the lid switch harness.
Disconnect the harness and check for resistance between the 2 grey wires (outside) on the lid switch connector connected to top of washer. With the lid down the circuit should read no resistance. If the circuit is open(infinite resistance) then the switch needs to be replaced. You can also use a insulated jumper on the lid switch harness to determine if its the switch.
To replace the lid switch you will now have to remove the cabinet. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the two clips holding the back of the washer to the outer shell of the washer.
Disconnect the lid switch harness(If not still disconnected).

You can now pull the outer shell away from the washer. Do this by
grasping the outer shell (I open the lid and grab it there.) and tilt the shell forward (toward you) and out. The shell is now removed and you can see the tub. Be careful not to bend the outside walls of the shell when removing and setting aside. This will help greatly when reinstalling the shell. Remove the 2 screws attaching switch to cabinet. Remove the screw connecting the ground on the cabinet. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push tabs on lid switch connector block to remove. Finally remove the whole harness from the 2 remaining retainer clips under the cabinet. Install new lid switch harness assembly and reassemble washer.

This is all the Bentley shows:


Location: Driver's side door trim in storage compartment.

Removing:

- Remove driver's side door trim:
Repair Manual, Body Interior, Repair Group 70 - Unplug connectors.



Carefully disengage catches -arrows-.
- Press switch for interior monitoring and towing protection -1- or trunk release switch -2- out of trim toward rear.

Installing

Installation is carried out in the reverse order.



Remove trunk lid lock.

Repair Manual, Body Exterior, Repair Group 55
- Use a flat screwdriver to pry plastic tab -3- off retaining pins -1-.
- Bend plastic tab fully to rear.
- Pull contact switch -2- first sideways and then up and out of trunk lid lock.

Installing

Install in reverse order, paying attention to the following:

Note:

Make sure that washers are correctly seated between plastic tab and trunk lid lock.

This problem sounds like a broken lid switch. Power to the drive motor is routed to the lid switch and if the lid switch fails, the machine will fail work on any cycle. Verify this by bypassing the lid switch.

Disconnect power to the washer then remove the screws securing the console to the rear of the cabinet.


Pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.


Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab located in the middle and pulling it up.


Jump a wire between the outer terminals of the disconnected connector from the top of the cabinet then reconnect power. The problem is indeed the lid switch if the machine starts. Check the lid switch plunger and the lid switch attachment to the cabinet. It may not activate properly if the mounting is loose, re-tighten it. Replace the lid switch if the plunger is intact and and if it is mounted tightly and properly.

The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.


Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base.


Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front of the cabinet, carefully lift up the cabinet and lay the front on a cushioned floor to access the lid switch.



Remove the lid switch ground and mounting screws then release the wire harness from the metal retainers. Pull the lid switch connector out and install the new lid switch in reverse order of the removal steps.


Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.

Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.

The machine control detected that the lid switch is not functioning properly. Raise the top part of the washer to gain access to the lid switch.

Disconnect the machine from the power source. Gently pry the emblem from the front of the machine and remove the T20 torx screw hidden behind it. Slide the top of the washer forward and raise its front. Prop it up high enough to allow easy access to the lid switch.

The lid switch is activated by an actuator (part number 19119) mounted on a hinge. It will not work properly if the actuator is damaged.

Check the operation of the lid switch using a multimeter. Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and connect the test leads of the multimeter (set to X1 or ohm) to the terminals of the lid switch and activate it. The multimeter should read zero ohms while the lid switch is activated and open when deactivated.

Replace the lid switch if it is broken or if it fails the test above. Remove the lid switch mounting screw and install the new lid switch. Reconnect the wiring harness and slide the top of the washer back into position. Reinstall the T20 torx screw and the emblem.

Your problem is more likely a broken lid switch. To test for this, lift the washer cover and look for a small hole in the washer top where the cover was. Push a toothpick gently into the hole and press the piece of plastic you see in the hole downward and listen for a soft clicking sound. If you don't hear a click or the plastic tab is not in the hole replace the lid switch.

Unplug the washer. Check the actuator on the lid that operates the lid switch to see if broken. Open the console of the washer. After removing the screws, the console will lift up and hinge back. Disconnect the plug going to the lid switch. Picture. Check the lid switch [lid closed] with an ohm meter from the wire plug-in leading to the switch. If no continuity, replace the lid switch. You will need to remove the cabinet to replace the switch. There are only a couple screws holding the lid switch assembly and a ground wire connection to the cabinet. Reassemble the washer and test the operation.

Unplug washer, remove the two console screws and tilt console back, remove cabinet clips, unlock lid switch block and then remove the cabinet. Remove the lid switch mounting screws, disconnect ground wire and remove lid switch assembly. Compare old switch to the new one. If the plastic sleeve of the new switch is longer, break off at the score mark. Pull wire partially out of sleeve before shortening sleeve. If the sleeve had to be shortened, the wires must be looped to take up the excess wire. Use supplied wire tie from the new kit. Install new switch assembly. New lid switch

Pay VERY close attention to assembling case back onto base so that sides engage tabs in base.

Hi, if this is a whirlpool model machine, you can't just remove the top. The whole cabinet needs to be removed. You can change the lid switch without removing the cabinet. Remove the two screws holding the lid switch. Pull the lid switch toward the middle of the opening and snip the wires. You can splice the new switch onto the old wires using wires nut connectors if you want. If you want to use the whole wire harnes that comes with new switch, remove the two screws that hold the control panel to the cabinet. now yuou can see the lid switch connection (easy plug in) located in the middle. Unplug the lid switch and force the connection downward. Remove the old switch and install the new.

I can get you part# or send you the part off my web site www.whirlpoolpartssurplus.com if you would like. I would need the model#

I hope this helps.

THanks
Vic

Lid switch is most likely the problem, if lid switch is visible under lid on right side then this is older design and common problem switch.
if you have console frame covers on front sides, snap off from top, a screw is at bottom front corners of console, remove and pull console forward and fold back. If lid swich is hidden then you will see it at left on top of cabinet with console folded back. a 5/16 screw holds a green ground wire to cab. remove and switch will unclip with lid up. If lid switch was visible under lid then you need to remove 2 brass clips holding cabinet on top of base to back, pry with screwdriver to unclip. undo harness connection on cabinet top, this is your lid switch connection. sw body is held by 2 phillips screws, harness tube held by clips on underside of cabinet top. ground wire with 5/16 screw present at sw body. New versions of this switch have metel shield attached.

First unplug the washer, then take a putty knife and insert it into the front corners between the top and the body of the washer to pop open the spring clips. Flip the lid up to get to the lid switch. Remove the two screws accessible from the top, pull the two wires off of the old switch and plug them into the new switch, then line up the switch and reinstall the screws. If yo9u found this helpful, please don't forget to rank it.

remove trims from edges of control panel
remove screws from under trims
rais and flip control panel over backwards(hinged at top) do not dislodge air hose to level sensor
remmove brass clips from washer body top, not position for reinstall
disconnect lid switch connector cable
lift and remove entire body
turn upsidie down

change switch

reassemble in reverse order
~20minutes