Yes sir I own a thermal dynamics cuttmaster 52 and connot get the machine to work .The main problem is when I pull the switch the far red light starts to flash. any help would be appretiated

wires at at the top of the light so just loosen of the part above the fan and slide it up to check the wires and connections , or pull the switch from the wall and check there
REmember that the wires will be live so turn off the mains first

if you projector auto shut down, and Lamp LED Light - Check Lamp - Check Lamp Driver - Check Main Board b. Temp LED Light - Check Thermal Sensor - Check Thermal Switch - Check Fan

Yes. Many of these have a display thermal fuse that is part of the wiring harness that connects to the board... it should have continuity. WP4451042. Almost all models have what is called the "oven shut-down thermal fuse" which is on the back of the machine ( you have to pull it out of the wall and remove the back panel) and looks like this KitchenAid Range Stove Oven Thermal Fuse WP9759242

you must check the light indicator if how many times does it blink which tell the main problem or the error code of the tv. either the power supply doesn't work normally or the lamp need replacement.

Try and replace the swirl ring. We had the same problem and it fixed it. They cost around 35 bucks

We had the same problem. Try and replace the swirl ring in the torch head. It costs around 35 dollars. It worked for us.

Normally the red light stays on for hydro operation, so within 1/2 hr or so you should have hot water. Red light on gas means problem lighting. A few things to check. Make sure switch at back of water heater is on as well as breaker in panel, for hydro operation.
As far as gas side goes, try going outside and drop cover down, and pull the connectors of and on a couple of times at the spark module, just to make sure you have clean contact, and have someone try switch after, and let me know if it's at least trying to spark. If still not working, there should be a thermal cut-off switch in the brown wire running to center area of water heater to the thermostat, and ECO. ( where square piece of black foam covers them) That thermal cut-off has a clear plastic sleeve over it. Take that out of the circuit. Simply pull it apart at both ends, and then connect wire from spark module directly to THERM/ECO, where it was before.( your just eliminating that piece, and going direct.) See if it lights now, and let me know. Do you have a 12 volt test light, or multimeter? Also, with it turned off, take your finger and push in between spade connectors on the THERM, and ECO, and make sure there isn't a little reset in center that has tripped.

the problem might be the thermal sensor on the light engine. with all the work you have done on this i would suggest taking a look at the thermal sensor. these are known to go out.

Check contacts in tip and be sure it is all lubed correctly. If you have good air pressure and flow it should arc after pulling the trigger for about 2-3 seconds.

I would try removing the remote part. Connect the two main (light & fan) wires direct to your house main. Then if the pull chain works then you just need a new remote unit.