Not sure where your problem is in the sequence of things. I am in France writing this so not at home to look at my Printer. From memory, once you have removed the wheel with the rubber band (tyre) on, rotate the band so a good part will be pushing on the paper and put the wheel back on the bar in reverseof how you took it off. The tabs on the wheel lock back in place holding the wheel to the bar. It's TIGHT in there though and I seem to remember it took a little bit of persuassion. However, f it seems impossble, then stop. You don't want to break it now you have got this far.
If this doens't help, drop me a line again in a couple of days as I will be back in the UK then and can have a closer look. I will try and post some pics too. Sorry I can't be more helpfull right now.
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Are you having trouble with the WiFi? I've never had a smart phone, or anything else for that matter, suggest forgeting a network. The list of remembered networks just gets longer and longer over time. However, if you go into WiFi settings there are things you can do to clean up the list of networks like set a priority order/move up and down or forget/remove old networks. In summary, unless you are having trouble with the wifi, this may be a normal thing you just recently noticed.
You didnt mention a model number, however, here are some things to check. With nails removed and air hose disconnected, push the driver up manually with rod. The driver should not be hard to push back into place (Like pushing a cup of coffee with finger). If hard to push, check for oring too tight or bent driver. If easy to push and driver moves when you point nose of gun up then down, oring too loose. If driver seems ok, suspect check-band. Most nailers have a check band around the outside of the cylinder. The band could be an oring or a wide piece of rubber. Under the band are a series of holes. These vent holes need to be clean and the band needs to fit snuggly covering the holes. If band is ok, air is leaking down the nose of the gun when the piston is trying to move up the cylinder. Make a seal out of old bike tube or thin rubber to be placed under the bumper. Cut small hole for the driver to pass thru. This seal will prevent too much air from coming out of nose of gun when air is pushing driver up. If air is not escaping thru nose then suspect obstruction in the head area preventing discharge air to quickly exit the gun allowing the piston to reach top. Good luck
First remove the back panel of the set. Then hold the blue safety interlock switch in the up position. A rubber band works well. Then turn on the set and after a moment look on the Right side of the Light Engine and see if the Lamp Fan ( The Larger Fan) is rotating. If it is not, then it is bad and needs to be replaced. It it is OK then check the other two smaller fans for rotation. There is a bad fan.
On the open end of the bag that slips onto the vacume, there is a cloth "tab" sticking up from the band. Take hold of this tab and lift up while easily pulling back until you see the band about half way off the vacume. Now, you can take hold of the band and pull the bag the rest of the way off. You will notice that there is a "rib" in the middle of the band on the side that faces the vacume. That rib fits into the groove where the band goes on the vacume. When you install the bag put the band on this groove and work the band on around the housing. You can center the "tab" anywhere, just place it where you can get to it easy. The other parts you need are on the internet, I found them all including that rubber plug called the "attachment port" plug. The p/n for the replacement part is 3-201744-601. The original p/n is 3-501744-601 but you'll be better looking for the replacement part number. Good luck!
I had the same problem with my Triton XL Model # - GSD6660G02SS Dishwasher. I tried adding water, zip tied each wash arm (one at a time) and had no positive result. Then I noticed a notch on what is called the docking cone. It supplies water to the middle wash arm. When the upper rack is pulled out you can see the cone at the back of the washer. Anyway I put a rubber O ring on this notch and the noise stopped. I can't tell from the parts list if the O ring is supposed to be there or not. Maybe a GE repair tech can confirm this. Hope it works for you as it did for me.
Sunbeam 2366 stand mixer -- Front view: mixer-0-small.JPG -- -- image of the "beater clip": mixer-1-small.JPG -- notice the wear on the plastic clip -- -- image of the "modified" beater: mixer-2-small.JPG - I took a paper clip an wound very tightly to the smallest diameter (notice it covers the entire section to prevent slippage) and then put one wrap around the "top knot" to increase diameter -- -- image of the back of the front cover: mixer-3-small.JPG - notice the broken clip at the top. I used a wide scrapper blade to separate the cover from the main body. ----
My Delta 14" had the same problem. My fix was to get new rubbers, took care of my issue. They do stretch, but the newer the rubbers are the more the will retain there form, the older they are, not so much.
The rubber band goes around the plastic roller and is loose about loose enough to get a finger between it and plastic however the thing then pushes back into the curved space at the back of the roller so it forms a kind of c shape around the roller. If that makes any sense!
I had the same problem with my Vista 1 year ago. I tried the contact cement and worked fine for a couple of weeks. I tried another brand of contact cement and had the same problem (the adhesive unsticks from the rubber band). I finally solve the problem cleaning everything (be sure to remove ALL of the adhesive from both gps and rubber band to ensure a good contact between them) and putting some drops of Locktite instant glue on the water protective layer side, and then carefully place the rubber band on its place (don't forget that you have only a few seconds to work with instant glue) . Just be carefull and don't apply adhesive very close to the buttons. It worked for me for more than 11 months....and still working...