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Anytime you weld something or even tack anything together, your joints are going to move some. You could position your pieces to compensate for this or you could clamp them down. But no matter what, when that weld puddle solidifies, it will pull and the stresses exerted on your work piece can be pretty high. If you can't clamp it in place to minimize movement, try tacking one spot on one side, then--using a your favorite hammer--influence your piece back straight and tack the other side. Once you have solid tacks that are going to hold your piece as square as you can make them, then weld it out, alternating sides and direction of travel. Of course minimize heat input as much as possible. Travel speed has more to do with heat input than amperage or voltage in many cases. Its a little hard to give you specific recommendations on your project without knowing more about your set up there. So tack, straighten, tack, straighten, tack straighten and so one...then weld it out.
The short answer is that it is not bolted on and it isn't meant to be removed. The vehicle is uni-body construction, meaning that it is all welded together to form a unit structure and anything that changes the structure could be life threatening. Here is s picture of a Rav4 with the tail light out:
To get the outer sheet metal off you need to take out the interior trim and covers to expose the welded structure. The spot welds can be drilled out with a spot weld cutter. Not a job for most people. If it isn't welded back in place correctly, it will affect wheel alignment, rear door sealing and worst case the rear suspension could fall out on the highway. I suggest only a trusted body repair shop handle something like this.
you have drill out all the sport welds if you start on a front clip from a wreck find all the spot welds, grind all the welds without cutting into the front you need, making note where the welds are, using a center punch mark the center of welds on your front, using a drill the same size as the spot weld, drill them all out, there may be 100+ of them carefully measuring where it has to go back to, draw a diagram, measure again, then check your measurements again. remove the panel, set new frame in place, weld in the spots where you drilled measure again. Or take it to a panel beater because you havn't even looked at paint yet
Most are spot welded into place. The only way to do it is to cut them out, using a grinder to remove the spot welds as best as possible then removing the hinge with a dead blow hammer, or use a metal chisel to help dislodge it the rest of the way
Due to the explosive ability of compressed air, I would not recommend any repairs to a compressor tank. It is possible to weld a patch on the rusty spot but the heat would weaken the rest of the tank and you could face a very dangerous explosion if the tank should fail at another spot. As an authorized service center, if I have to replace an air tank I have to drill holes in the old tank to render it useless and safe. Save yourself a huge nightmare and buy a new compressor.
screws on bottom ease the case off fix ribbon there under the rubber stops then once open your going to want to seal galss back down i recommend jb weld on edges to hold glass in if u dont secure glass when open a month down the road the glass will pop down i had my scanner 16 years since jb welding the glass down you only spot jb weld the glass though
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