Kenmore microwave The outlet had power, I checked the fuse which is white with a single black line in the center other than the metal connections on the ends. Need more solution help. Tom

Hi heshamyg, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you.
Since I could not find the electrical specs for your particular model in the user's guide, please locate the information tag (plate or decal) and tell me what the wattage and amperage ratings are.
Page 5 of your user's manual recommends that your microwave should be used on a 15 or 20 amp circuit And that a "separate circuit servicing only this appliance be provided."
I don't know if this appliance is a new install to your kitchen appliance array, or if this unit has been around and in use for awhile without any problems.
Either way, the electrical circuit is being overloaded; short circuited; or because of a ground fault.

An overloaded circuit is one primary reason for a breaker to trip. It occurs when a circuit has more connected electrical load than it is supposed to have. When more current runs through the circuit than the circuit was intended to take, the circuit breaker is designed to "break the circuit." It does so to prevent overheating of the wire in the circuit, which can cause a fire.

• The most probable reason the breaker tripped is that you simply have too much plugged into one outlet or multiple outlets connected to one circuit.
• Move lamps, heaters, irons, hair dryers and other heavy power consuming devices to a different circuit not being heavily used; or
• Turn off some of the devices on the circuit to reduce the load.
• Loose connections are another possible but less common cause. With power off, check outlets for a loose wire and the electrical service panel hot wire connected to the circuit breaker to see if it has become loose. Re-tighten the connections if necessary.
• If these suggestions do not solve the problem you may have a more serious problem such as a Short Circuit or Ground Fault

The Short Circuit is a more serious reason for a breaker to trip. A short is caused when the hot wire (black) touches another hot wire or touches a neutral wire (white). It can also be caused if there is a break in a wire in the circuit. Shorts are a bit more difficult to diagnose because they can be caused by the wiring in your home or in something you have plugged into an outlet.

• Confirm that the power is off at the outlet into which your device is plugged.
• Inspect your power cords for damage or a melted appearance.
• Check your outlets and plugs for the smell of burning- or look to see if there is any visible brown or black discoloration.
• Check the insulation on the wires to make sure that they are not cracked; and that bare (uninsulated) black and white wires aren't touching together.
• If you do not find the problem, repeat the process for all the outlets in the circuit.
• Check for a Ground Fault condition.

A Ground Fault Condition is defined as: An unintentional, electrically conducting connection between an ungrounded conductor of an electrical circuit and the normally non-current-carrying conductors, metallic enclosures, metallic raceways, metallic equipment or earth.
In simpler terms, a ground fault condition exists when the hot wire (black) touches the ground wire (bare copper) or the side of a metal outlet box (because the metal box is connected to the ground wire). The ground fault is a type of short circuit.

The fix is the same as a short circuit except check that the hot wire (black ) is not touching the side of the metal outlet box or the ground wire.

If the problem is internal to the microwave oven, have it serviced by a properly trained service technician since one could expose themselves to dangerous levels of microwave energy.

Please keep me posted. Thank-you.

Check the fuse.

The fuse would need to be pulled and checked with a digital meter using the ohms setting.

HI, there is a inline fuse located inside the microwave ion the power supply board. check for continuity. replace the fuse if necessary. if the fuse is OK, replace the power supply board.

The first thing I suggest is to check if  you have a 'Ground Fault Interrupter' (GFI) protecting that circuit; they will sometimes trip because they have misinterpreted a current condition that some appliances may do randomly. These look a little different than the standard outlet and have two buttons, one test and the other reset. Some have small indicators that light if the circuit has been disabled.    There is normally only one in a kitchen or bathroom.   If you don't find this, plug in another appliance briefly (a nightlight will do) to se if there is voltage at the outlet used for the micowave.
If the outlet is dead, it's time to locate the main breaker or fuse box and check to see if there are any tripped or blown.
If you don't find any external problem then it is time to pull the AC plug and remove the back panel. This normally won't require more than the removal a 5  or 6 screws.
Check the area around where the AC line comes into the cabinet for a fuseholder which are often easy to find.  Typically, these appliances use a standard US style fuse except that the body may be white (ceramic) instead of glass. Keep fingers away from everything except the fuse as there are parts that can retain a nasty charge for hours.
If you have a multimeter, you can check the fuse for continuity; if you don't, then you will need to find a replacement fuse of the same rating which will be in the range of 10 to 20 amperes and this is stamped into the metal end caps. Don't replace any ceramic-body fuse with glass since a fuse can produce a high gas pressure when it blows and glass will often shatter.
Any appliance service center will have this type of fuse in stock and it shouldn't cost more than a buck even when business is slow. Buy two, not just a single one.
If you replace the fuse and if fails again, you will have to let a tech do some magic and locate the cause of the overcurrent that is blowing the fuse.
There are a number of parts that can fail that don't cost a fortune but if you bring it in, or have it serviced at home, ask for the type of part that has failed if the cost exceeds $10 and post back here so I or another tech can tell you if it is a fair price.
Good luck-       

you must remove the MW take off the cover then look for a large metal can (capacitor) and a white (ceramic) fuse...look and, smell and, you should find the cause

Chances are that you have a common connection with another plug. Microwave, Fridge etc.. Even if it's not the same plug it's still "In line" meaning that both outlets are on the same breaker. A: Find another outlet to plug your Microwave into or B: Put a surge protector in between the Microwave and the outlet.

open by unscrewing screws on back and along left side bottom. this lets you swing up the cabinet showing the electrics. the red power line going to the timer is held in place by a metal wire holder that is riveted to the base. wire has a white sleeve between its insulation and the metal wire holder. slide wire and sleeve out to the side of the holder. slide sleeve to side along wire, revealing fuse. need a solder iron and an electronic parts store to get replacement fuse and solder it in. reassemble.


the fuse is a resistor that blows when unit is getting hot. use lower resistance fuse or just hardwire the power line straight through, no fuse, but watch for overheating (not likely) and maybe use breaker outlet

hi

You can remove the grill on top; there should be screws on the top of the microwave and/or within the grill itself. Then remove the control panel, should be one screw on the top of the panel, then lift up on the panel and tilt it out. The fuses should be visible from there. If the fuse is the problem it's easy to change, just remember to unplug the unit first before working on it. And I would suggest getting a single outlet surge protector for the unit; microwaves are very sensitive to power spikes. Please contact me if you need any more help.

It could be a bad in-line circit breaker fuse. Unplug the microwave and take the outside cover off. Look for the in-line circuit breaker fuse. Use a plastic fuse puller (not your hands or a metal tool as there is still voltage stored in the microwave even when it is unplugged). Look at the fuse and see if it is blown. (The metal wire running length of tube will be broken. If you have one, test with an Ohmmeter.