Oil will not feed to chain.sump is full. - Garden

The engine oil pump draws oil from the oil pan or sump under the engine. Most designs place the pump withing the sump for convenience of design and efficiency of operation and in particular to provide the shortest time to achieve full pressure after a cold start and possible drain-back. Some designs, mostly push-rod engines, drive the pump at half crankshaft speed but modern design tends to mount the pump on the front of the crank driving direct or close to the front of the crank via a chain or gear drive

A few designs placed the pump at the top of the engine and sharing a timed drive with the distributor. Surprisingly these worked quite well until the engine had lost it's newness and then the length of time until oil light out would extend and extend and extend. It was reckoned this wasn't a cause for alarm until it took one minute...

Most vehicles with timing chains have a cover over the chain that it attached to the oil pan. There are gaskets that have to be replaced between the two and removal of the pan is recommended to do this properly. Trying to avoid it can result in a number of issues, from gasket material falling into the sump to oil leaks from not having the lower part of the cover sealed properly.

personally too much hassle prefer Stihl Chainsaw more reliable Seizing is caused by lack of lubrication, First check all level has oil pump seized or is it sump type when running oil circulates all way round, Still there has to be a oil reservoir if this is bone dry theres your problem the rattling is metal on metal with no protection and the damage is seizing caused by lack of oil I have two chainsaws both have oil sumps and are kept full, please check hope this helps

Hi, Before buying the gasket I recommend you try to tighten all the oil sump bolts. The oil sump gasket would not cost a lot, but can you get at the oil sump & remove it easy before you try if so it is easy to replace ensure clean both surfaces clean & oil free before replacing the sump gasket. Please leave me feed back Malcolm Campbell, [email protected] Thanks.

from the book the oil pump is driven by a chain from the crankshaft. It is very possible that the oil pump has come loose and thrown/broken the pump chain. It will require a sump removal to check it out. recheck the oil level as what you read may have been a froth level . there is no reason for extra oil unless it was overfilled to start with or there is water contamination ( white /grey oil)

You are free to charge to the top if you think right to use a chainsaw. It is essential that the oil is clean. If you accidentally charge too much (full hopper) it is good the rest of oil put back in the oil bottle or to extend on the chain. It is important that it is not oil-free and should be cleaned around the chain for good lubrication.

There should be a oil adjusting screw on the bottom of your saw next to the bar beside the oil tank. Some models actually has the screw inside the tank. Drain the tank to make sure there isn't any debris clogging the hole where the oil feeds to the bar.

One way to check to see if the bar is oiling is:

1. Start the saw
2. Put a board, piece of cardboard or an uncolored old shirt in front of the bar
3. Press the trigger on the saw to allow the chain to circulate around the bar.
4. While keeping constant pressure on the trigger, look to see if there is a vertical line of oil on the piece of material you have placed on front of the bar. If the saw is oiling you will have a vertical line. If not adjust the oil set screw accordingly.

There is an adjustment screw for setting how much oil flows onto the chain. I think it is on the bottom of the saw -- check your manual if you still have it. I think if you back the screw out it feeds more oil. You should see oil spray lightly if you rev the engine in the air pointing it towards a piece of wood.

Here is a link to what you need and the guide below

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh43/chuck943/A14937D.gif

Item Part Number Description 1 — Valve Tappet Vent Gallery (Open to Crankcase) (Part of 6049) 2 — Valve Tappet and Camshaft Bearing Feed Gallery (Reduced Pressure) (Part of 6049) 3 — Orifice and Strainer (Part of 6049) 4 — RH Head Gallery Oil Reservoir (Part of 6049) 5 — Primary Main Gallery Pressure (Not Restricted) (Part of 6010) 6 — LH Head Gallery Oil Reservoir (Part of 6049) 7 — Orifice and Strainer (Part of 6049) 8 6049 Cylinder Head 9 — Oil Drain to Sump (Part of 6049) 10 — To Hydraulic Timing Chain Tensioner (6L266) 11 — From Left Bank Cylinder Block (Part of 6010) 12 6714 Oil Bypass Filter 13 9278 Oil Pressure Sensor 14 6881 Oil Filter Adapter 15 — Oil Pump Integral Relief Valve (Part of 6010) 16 — Bypass (Part of 6010) 17 6600 Oil Pump 18 — To LH Cylinder Head (Part of 6049) 19 — Oil Drain to Sump (Part of 6010)

First thing check the feed hole through which the oil is delivered to the bar itself for debris,secondly the worm gear turning the pump shafft need only be slightly damaged to hamper full oil flow , next take the oil filler cap off, (with the bar ,chain ,bar plates, and oiler removed ) look where the oil pick up is in the case half and remove it and check for clogging and / or tears in the rubber hose,
if the cap is equipped with a breathing filler cap check make sure the cap breathes this will also hamper maximun oil flow capacity,
I stand by this , as I have dealt with product for close to 2 decades and know it intimately
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