Underneath the cone there is a black bit that is shaped like the cone but has separated from the by looking at it, it seems it was held together with some kind of glue or sealent the subwoofer is a kicker l5 solobaric and was wondering would be the best thing to repair it with

Sounds like loose 'cones' in the rear wheel hub. The cones are cone-shaped nuts that the bearings run against, being held in place within the hub in the 'cup' of the hub. Tighten the cones until there is free rotation of the wheel with no lateral play. Hold the cone in place with the spanner whilst tightening the lock-nut and recheck the adjustment. If you lack the tools take it to your nearest independent local bike shop and they will surely be happy to help.

It sounds like you have a separation issue. The material that the screen is made out of is layered on top of each other. What happens is it separates and causes the distortion/discoloration. When you press on it you are actually pushing it back together like a fly paper that doesn't want to stick anymore. There is not a fix for this other than a new tv.

Remove the protecting grill in front. Check if the cone is still connected to the rubber band. If not, remove the screws around the speaker. Open the casing itself. Do not forget the screw in the middle of the battery compartment. Remove the bottom cover. Disconnect the 2 wires on the speaker and take out the speaker. It will come out with the plastic protection around it. Looking at the cone now, push up the Carton cone and keep it in place by putting some tissue paper or small cloth underneath. Clean the cone first. Use some rubber cement on the outer edges of the cone and press the rubber back on the cone. Let it dry for an hour and then remove the tissue / cloth, so the cone goes back to its normal position.You can use some extra rubber (those pre-glued strips that you would use to fix a bicycle tire) to make it extra strong. Remount everything back in place and voila....it works again!If your cone is not damaged, the casing most probably does not seal good anymore. Tighten all screws a little more and use plastic electrical tape all around to seal all joints. The bass is produced inside the casing itself and pushed out via a horn. If it is not closed off well, your bass sounds grumpy.

Although you posted your question under Chainsaws instead of another tool forum, look at the end of the drill. Is there a hole surrounded by a cone shaped metal end? This is the chock, if you spin/turn it counterclockwise, the opening should widen to accommodate the drill bits, then spin/turn it clockwise to tighten/clamp down on the drill bit. Some drills accomplish this with an l-shaped key that has a small cone-shaped gear on the end that fits into holes on the chock. Some drills have a chockless drill, and you simply hold the end of the drill and squeeze the trigger to use power to tighten/loosen the bit.

You should have 3 parts. The spinner, a cone shaped insert and the snap pin. The cone shape insert is the first part to install. Look at the upper spray feed tube in the top of the dishwasher where the old part used to be. Place the cone shaped insert on top of the spray tube through the hole with the flat part on top. Now take the spinner and snap it into the cone shaped insert from the bottom of the hole. Be sure that the swirling vanes are facing upwards. It should snap in. With the snap pin, push it into the insert underneath the spinner. This is what holds the spinner to the insert. Good luck.

if there's NO resistance, see if the lead running to the cone (coil) has broken.
If so, you might be able to solder it back on and save the speaker.
Sometimes they separate at the terminals, sometimes at the cone.
If it separated at the cone, you may need to peel back a bit of paper to get to the wire underneath, and scrape the enamel coating off the wire so you can solder to it.

Otherwise, it's off to your local audio mart to buy a 10" whoofer at the same or higher wattage and same impedance. Take the old one with you to make sure the screw holes align too! (although that's not 100% essential as you can always drill new pilot holes wherever the screw holes aare....unless the screw holes have a metal insert)

If you did have to peel back some paper to do the repair, reinforce the torn area with toilet paper and fingernail polish. Use several layers as you don't want the movement of the whoofer to rip apart your solder joint or any more of the cone.

see paper jam .i don`t know whitch lamp is on tell me about it

Gary, as a general rule of thumb you should be able to look around and find the Phillips head screws then carefully pry the panels loose. The screws can be underneath and some times you have to pull the ash tray or other trays out to see them. Those dash assy are put together in interlocking pieces and held in place by clips. Once you get the cover off the instrument assy you should be able to remove the entire cluster (may be screws holding it in place or clips. Look around for screws and things that look like they "fit" together.Generally the panel over the radio ansd heaters is held in by clips and a flat screw driver covered with a rag (to prevent scratching) is good to remove it. If something seems hard to get off look around for screws.

I had same problem. Turned out to be the filter that sits above the waste cannister. Remove the waste cannister. There is a little orange lever that releases the filter. It was caked with dirt not allowing any air flow causing the motor to overheat.

This foam filter gets dirty pretty fast.

first remove the soap drawer, this should expose locating holes for screws, remove these first, then remove the screws from on top of the plastic front panel and then the plastic front panel tilts forward to remove, taking extra care with wires etc the soap drawer is now loose still attached to the rubber pipe, which is now easy to get to for inspection, or removal to clear it out. first of all just check that the machine drum is not filling up totally so it is overflowing back out of the soap drawer, if so that is a different fault entirely and does not need taking to bits the same