When i plug the remote wire in with the ground and power wire plugged in tight, i'll wiggle the remote wire and the heat and power safe lights flash on, but if i just leave the remote wire in the fan will spin but no sound if being produced out of my subs.. Help?

If you have a voltmeter or a 12V trouble light, check to see there is 12V at the remote terminal when everything is on. The remote wire coming out of the head unit cant supply a lot of current (usually around 1/2 amp). even a quick short to ground on the remote wire can render it useless.

Your going to need to pull your radio back out and check to make sure that all of your connections are good and tight. while you have it out and still plugged in, you can do a little "wiggle" test on each wire to see if you can duplicate the problem. Also check to make sure that a wire is not grounding out on the inside of the dash due to rubbing. Its hard to get all whose wires back in without hitting or rubbing something once it has been removed. If this does'nt help.. let me know and we'll go further.

Whenyou connect the power adapter into the laptop, does the power LED lightup? If not then -The battery adapter or the adapter's power lead or the laptop's powersocket could be faulty.Check power adapter's DCplug that connects into the laptop power socket with a multi-meter, the voltageshould be slightly higher than the voltage that is printed on the label on thebottom of the adapter. If the voltage is zero or way below the voltage that isprinted on the label then the power adapter is faulty and needs to be replaced.If the adapter is OK thenconnect it to the laptop and power it up, then look at the power/batterycharging LED light and wriggle the power plug in the laptop's powersocket. If the power/battery LED light flashes and in a certain position thisLED light stays firm, then the power socket is either faulty or it has a drysolder joint where it is connected to the motherboard.This can be repaired but itrequires the laptop to be completely dismantled to get at this power socket andrepair. If you cannot DIY then I suggest you get a quote first.

1) http://www.insidemylaptop.com/remove-lcd-screen-replace-inverter-board-acer-aspire-5100-laptop/

Yes, I know. Aspire 5100 series of Notebook PC, not the Aspire 5230 series. I am looking at the Service Manual for the Aspire 5230 series right now, and the above link is a good basic pictorial guide.

http://www.tim.id.au/blog/tims-laptop-service-manuals/#toc-acer

Drop down to the subheading - Aspire 1200. (1200 in Blue)
Go down to the 6th line, scroll across, and left-click on 5230 in blue.
(Takes few seconds before the first page comes up.
In the PDF file page number box at the top, go to Page 119)

2) If you mess up with the connection of the LCD Panel Cable, to the LCD Panel, (On back), your laptop will not power up.
Those tiny contact pins on that cable's connector, must line up exactly, and be plugged in tightly to the LCD Panel.
Not plugged in tightly? You won't see it visually. You have to physically check.

Also use the old tape that was there, to tape over the connector once installed, on the back of the LCD Panel.
Ripped it all the way off? Oops! Use some new tape. (Not duct tape, scotch tape, or medical tape. Box tape with strands in it)

3) Connector of LCD Panel Cable, connected tightly into motherboard?

4) Screen Inverter wires connected? Connectors are keyed differently from each other, BUT, are they connected correctly?

5) Why was the LCD Panel replaced? Damaged? Did the LCD Panel Cable receive damage? Did you perform a cursory visual inspection of it's sheath, at least? Sheath showed ANY damage, did you perform a continuity check of each wire in the cable, with a multimeter set to Ohm's? (LCD Panel Cable unplugged from motherboard, and LCD Panel, of course)

6) If there was damage, did the screen Inverter receive damage?

7) Connect the LCD Panel Cable's ground wire/s back to THE ground screw/s? Good bright clean connection area for those eyelet ground terminal/s?

8) Did you crossover the new LCD Panel to the old LCD Panel, to make sure it is a direct replacement?
NOTE*
A screen Inverter, and an LCD screen, (LCD Panel for Acer), are a MATCHED unit.

9) AC adapter plugged into power, and plugged into laptop, along with the battery?

Post back in a Comment, and if none of the above is the problem, we'll go on from there.
Regards,
joecoolvette

You can pull all your power from the rear tail light! You'll need a multimeter(Or at least a test light of some sort!) on your adapter you'll have a green, a yellow, a brown and a white wire.
White- is your ground(Find a good clean nut/bolt on your frame)
green- Right turn signal/brake light
yellow- left turn/brake light
Brown- tail lights

What you'll have to do is find the wires for the tail light on your bike, And one by one probe them(with your multimeter/test light) With whichever accessory on(E.G. turn lights on, then probe the wires until you find the one that has power, This will be your tail light wire. same with both of your turn signals and brake light!

Maybe it's the DC Jack that the power cord plugs into. If the jack is loose then you will experience the issue you are having.

Maybe your DC Power Jack which is where the power cord plugs into the computer is bad. Take an ink pen and push the tip inside the jack and see if the little pin wiggles, if so the jack is bad. You'll have to take the laptop apart to fix it. Most times it is soldered onto the motherboard, so you will have to desolder the old and solder a new one.

Hi,

The most common cause for this, is a loose wire connection to that speaker (as opposed to the speaker being faulty).

Has anyone pulled the cord too tight or tripped on the cord? If yes, then the internal wire connecting that speaker has an internal break somewhere.

Try the following:

1) Plug headphones into music device and turn on.
2) Gently press the wire 'in' at the left earpiece (or wiggle at the earpiece end). If sound returns intermittently, then you have n internal wire break in that end of the cord.
3) Gently press the wire 'in' at the plug where it connects to your player (or wiggle the cord at the plug end). If sound returns, then there is an internal wire break at this end of the cord.

In the case of broken internal wires, it is possible to repair.

Although very fragile, it is possible to resolder these tiny wires (you'll have to burn off the enamel coating around these wires first) back onto their respective connections, or onto a new plug.

Good luck....

Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

Make sure you didn't bridge anything, knock anything off the deflection board you shouldn't have. All the resistor values on both sides of the STK match up, and most importantly Labeled all your plugs properly and placed them in the right spot, because if they are switched, you'll get a convergence issue. Make sure the fuses are still good too and that all the terminals that all the plugs go into have good solder joints.
Also, there is a voltage divider.
Make sure that none of the wires got loosened when you pulled this plug. (Particularly the ground wire) Let me know!

Check the wiring, specifically the plugs. Wires tend to start breaking right where they go into the plug. Also check the ground points. One way to check is get the drive tires off the ground , start and run the truck and get the turbo going. start wiggling the wires if there is a bad or broken one you will find it faster this way. Just remember to support the truck. Be safe.
Randy