My unit will not power up by the button. If I remove it from the mount and place it back on again, it powers up, but saying "Transducer Not Connected." If I go to "Normal" from the menu screen, everything works except the depth reading. It will power off by the button.

Question edited for clarity.

Make sure you got the correct transducer Your model comes in single frequency and dual frequency. Make sure the connection on the back of the unit is good and you have no corroded or missing pins. Make sure the software is up to date.

Lowrance LMS-525C DF Fish Finder Parts

Product Description: Designed for salt water or downrigger tracking, this dual-frequency sonar/GPS chartplotter
provides additional 50 kHz readings, in addition to a high-res 480 x 480 display on a 5" screen
and many professional features.

* Dual-frequency 50/200 kHz
* Precision 12-parallel channel external GPS+WAAS receiver
* Lowrance radar compatible
* LowranceNET® networking (NMEA 2000® certification pending)
* High-speed ethernet connection links multiple Lowrance display units and modules to
operate independently on shared network data, including sonar
200 khz transducer PDRT-WBL Part #106-89
Shoot-thru-hull mount, 20 degree pod type with remote temperature (200 kHz). (20 ft cable) Dual Frequency Transducer HP-DFBL260 Part #106-82
Thru-hull-mount, dual frequency bronze housing, high-power multiple element (50 kHz 19 degree
& 200 kHz 6 degree).

HST-DFSBL Part #106-77
Transom-mount, dual frequency skimmer with built-in temperature sensor. (25 feet of cable)

https://www.google.com/search?q=lowrance+lms-525c+df+software+update

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check and prime the pump as the light may indicate no water and so the pump will not run
foot valves leak back the water so it may need priming again

There are two main pieces to the front panel for the GFDN240EL1WW dryer-- the plastic panel and the circuit board. The actual replacement part is: Control Panel WE19M1687. The panel can be purchased for from places like partselect.com or repairclinic.com or Amazon or even EBay, etc. for $100-$200+.

The power button is just a piece of plastic mounted to another piece of plastic; it is not electronic. When pushed, it presses against the circuit board, which then turns the unit on/off. When the power button breaks, it typically means the little plastic button has broken off from the plastic panel. Most likely, the problem is the mount point for the button and the button is actually re-usable.

A cheaper quick-fix is to:

• Remove top screw from back of the front panel
• Remove main front knob from the panel
• Remove screw from behind the front knob
• Grab both sides of the front panel and push/pull up to remove the panel
• Disconnect the block connector (power) from the circuit board after removing the panel
• Locate the power button and mounting position
• Inspect to see if it looks like you can glue the button back into place
• Buy a small tube of loctite Stik'n Seal Ultra Universal Adhesive
• Put some Stik'n Seal on the button mounting point for the power button (be generous)
• Press the button onto the mounting point and hold for a few minutes
• Add more Stik'n Seal around the edges of the mounting point and the button mount after you have held the button in place long enough so that it sticks
• Let the whole thing dry for several hours (instructions on the adhesive say 24hrs
• If you are worried about the button staying seated while the adhesive sets, you can always try tape it into place
• When dry, replace the front panel by reversing the steps above used to remove the panel: connect the power block, slide the panel back into place, replace the front screw and knob, replace the top screw in the back of the panel

you need to mount it or stop it lifting off the hull tthen move with it sucured

Hello Keneth,
Is The transducer In Side the Hull Or Mounted On The Transom?
If Inside Remove It And Re Fit It Using Epoxy Glue Ensuring No Air Pocket Between transducer And Hull.
If transom Mounted Replace Transducer.
Hope this Helps
Gordy

Embedded

I was looking to see if I could find a replacement for the display and was able to confirm that the transducer is a single beam 120khz unit so I doubt that you've find a replacement for it ..as is .

The Airmar C-49 is the proper number for the connection line but like me I think your going to have to think about a whole new unit and or system . Been there already.

Best of luck.

Sir Isaac

Had the same issue with another brand. Turned out the transducer cable was picking up noise from other cables (power, trolling mtr. etc). Try moving the transducer cable away from any other cables. I put the cable in a 1/4 " plastic housing up to the point where it was above deck and it stopped all the strange stuff. Not sure about the temp issue??

Did the unit come with a strap to mount the transducer to a bow mount electric? Most units do... If not there is probably one available for the unit as an aftermarket accessory or accessory from the manufacturer... Regarding the transducer wire, just wrap and rout this up the front of the bow mount motor shaft so when you pull the motor up and secure it, it is not going to get in the way. You could cable tie the cord down near the bottom of the shaft and one up near the top where they wont interfere with the motor bracket when the motor is positioned up on the boat.

the base that the unit plugs into has a plug in for the transducer and one for the power. make sure that the power plug is pushed in far enough on the mount so the unit gets power. then tighten up the screw that holds the two in place.