Whirlpool Washer LSQ9645KQ0

Your load is out of balance.
If you have a heavy item, spread it around the tub to balance the load.
It is normal for the tub to shake during the spin cycle. The washer has a safety feature, if it is too badly out of balance it will shut itself down and sound an alarm.

the pressure tube is off, common problem when you have to tip washer over to change pump, replace tube to side of tub

You should be able to put it in spin and remove the water. if it don't you have a problem somewhere. There should be 3 springs hooked to the bottom of the tub to hold it on center if one breaks or comes loose it will be off balance. If you get water in the tub when not useing it and the water is on from the water line the water valve is leaking.If the water don't shut off when filling the water level switch could be bad.or the tube running to it could be stopped up pull the hose off the water level switch and blow through it if it bubbles in the tub it is ok. If can't blow through it it is stopped up.Hope this helps

It is normal to have residual water in the drain lines and pump following a wash cycle. This is the low point of the drain cycle and gravity will ALWAYS cause some water to be there. As long as the water is not visible in the spin basket, you have nothing to worry about.

Some model washers also have a balance ring around the perimeter on top of the wash tub that is filled with fluid. This acts as a stabilizer to help keep the washer balanced during the spin cycle. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the pads has come loose or broken.

Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

If it's not the pads or agitate cams, you may have a bent or damaged drive tube.

See the Whirlpool PDF for commercial washers although the consumer models use the same basic parts.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf



Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

The water inside the tub will drain out when the pump filter is removed from the pump housing and flood the base of the washer. If not, the tub drain hose is clogged preventing the water to drain into the pump housing then out.

The door is locked because the foam switch in the pressure switch is open due to the presence of water after the unsuccessful drain cycle.

Disconnect the washer from the power outlet. Remove the three screws holding the lower front access panel to the cabinet and pull the panel down to access the pump housing.

Squeeze the clamp that hold the tub drain hose to the pump housing and slide it back. Prepare a pan to catch the water to prevent flooding. The tub drain hose maybe difficult to remove and you may need to insert something under it to break the seal and pull it off.

Remove the tub drain hose from the tub by squeezing the securing clamp and pulling it off the tub drain outlet. Clear the hose and the tub drain outlet from any debris.

Reinstall the tub drain hose and manually unlock the door before reinstalling the access panel. Reach and pull the release ring behind and up the right side of the front panel, then open the door.

sounds like you have two problems, the burning smell is probably the pump,out of balance is usually due to worn aout suspension rods

HOPE THIS WORK, DON'T FORGET TO RATE ME

Timer is fried.

Washer went off-balance and tripped the off-balance switch.

sounds like a drain pump issue, not able to remove water quick enough before the centrifical force of tub spinning throws it over the top, remove the pump hoses and look for blockages

probably a bad lid switch ckd the area on right side of lid opening switch mounting screws can break out allowing switch to drop our of postion..switch lever could be broke or just not going far enough down to engage